Air filter lid center stud fabrication.

69427

The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
2,972
Location
Clinging to my guns and religion in KCMO.
Simple topic, but I wanted some additional input. I finally got tired of my demon-possessed Holley 850 and purchased a new Holley 850 with the aluminum construction (about 5# lighter also!). The old Holley center stud is 1/4", while the new carb stud size is 5/16". I'm not interested in drilling out the perfectly good looking OEM lid to 5/16", and I also prefer keeping the stock look of the original 1/4" wingnut. My first plan was just to weld a remnant of a 5/16" bolt to the remnant of a 1/4" bolt (the heads are sawed off both bolts), but it may or may not be a PITA to get the two different size bolts lined up to the same centerline prior to the weld. So, I thought perhaps I'd just get a 1/4" coupler nut (if that's the correct name), and then drill and tap one end for a 5/16" stud that would go into the carb, and thread in a 1/4" stud in the other end that would protrude up into the filter lid. I've got a few more days of being tied up moving stuff from the old house to our "new" place, so in the mean time I thought I'd ask if perhaps there's a simpler or more elegant way to get a 5/16" thread on one end and a 1/4" thread on the other.

Thanks for any constructive input.
 
What you suggested, or just drill a small rod each end for threaded rod clearance and weld them in. Or, put two hex bolts head to head and weld them together. I welded mine, as having a bolt back out and drop in the engine is not for me.
 
What you suggested, or just drill a small rod each end for threaded rod clearance and weld them in. Or, put two hex bolts head to head and weld them together. I welded mine, as having a bolt back out and drop in the engine is not for me.


GOOD THINKING!!!!:bump:
 
What you suggested, or just drill a small rod each end for threaded rod clearance and weld them in. Or, put two hex bolts head to head and weld them together. I welded mine, as having a bolt back out and drop in the engine is not for me.

Yeah, given the pros and cons of the different configurations (time, effort, alignment, and reliability) I think you've persuaded me to go that route.

Thanks, man!
 
Or- get some 5/16 threaded rod- turn it down on the end and die it to 1/4

the easiest- buy one of these- $2.50 and add some 1/4 threaded rod

Allstar 26058 Air Cleaner Stud Adapter - 1/4-20 to 5/16-18 in Thread - Steel - Zinc Oxide

ALL26058__37233.1454598977.1280.1280.jpg
 
Or- get some 5/16 threaded rod- turn it down on the end and die it to 1/4

the easiest- buy one of these- $2.50 and add some 1/4 threaded rod

Allstar 26058 Air Cleaner Stud Adapter - 1/4-20 to 5/16-18 in Thread - Steel - Zinc Oxide

ALL26058__37233.1454598977.1280.1280.jpg

Well, that last piece would certainly have saved me some unexpected frustration. My "new" MIG decided to take a crap (won't feed the wire) so I had to dig out (literally) my old worn out MIG (the heat control is erratic) and swap over the wire and gas bottle. Pissed away some decent time just trying to get a working piece of equipment. I did finally get a 1/4" and a 5/16" bolt welded together at the heads (and actually got the damn things pretty well centered, to my surprise and relief), so now I can finally take the car for a test drive and see how the driveability is with the new carb.

Thanks for the help and info, guys.
 
Top