LS Swap in 78 Vette

I don't need emissions, so can I remove the cannister? Will check with Chip.

The canister keeps the tank from venting fumes into the cabin/under the car/in that sealed space above the tank.... at the hope of preventing Donnie flambee over a charred corvette - perhaps leave it in place? (I suppose it could also be to prevent a Donnie launch into low orbit).. :hi:
 
I don't need emissions, so can I remove the cannister? Will check with Chip.

The canister keeps the tank from venting fumes into the cabin/under the car/in that sealed space above the tank.... at the hope of preventing Donnie flambee over a charred corvette - perhaps leave it in place? (I suppose it could also be to prevent a Donnie launch into low orbit).. :hi:

For what ever reason, and honestly I could care less, my Charcoal canister valve was stuck open....it's only supposed to open when engine is running, via direct shot at manifold vac.....the vapor suck was done by ported vac, from above the throttle blades....so I left the control line off, and hooked it to the same line the valve cover line went to....been fine for years now....

I have a vented cap, so my tank runs at atmosphere all the time, used to have a sealed cap and found my tank running at BOTH vacuum or pressure at different times, that is how I finally figgered out the mess, and settled on my present solution....

:gurney:
 
Yeah, kinda have a feeling after 40 years, those charcoal canisters might not work too well. On my 72 442, I found a different solution to fuel vapors. They put in a condensation tank where fuel tank vapors would condense and flow back into the fuel tank. Here's the good part....it's part of the back seat in the passenger compartment!
 
My canister had 3 hoses just cut off at the fender well. Can't I just drill a couple small holes in the gas cap?
 
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Your tank already has a vent, although you could swap out for a vented gas cap and plug the vent. Otherwise just put an inline fuel fiter on the hose to the tank vent to keep stuff out.
 
Made some progress this week. Scored a batwing oil pan, LS6 intake, water pump, Vintage Air system. Engine bay got a couple coats of paint today.
 
Made a little progress today. Fit the Vintage Air in the passenger compartment. Painted about 1/2 the firewall. Found the orange box that controls the dome lights. Going to jump this out so the dome lights don't drain the battery by staying on all the time.
 

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A Arms back on the frame and Vintage is leveled and temporary in the passenger compartment.
Ran into a small problem the jeep box retro. The universal I ordered from Borgeson was two small to fit my steering column shaft. U joint is about .020 to small. Returning to Summit. May try another universal or just go back to a rag joint.
 
Got the coil springs and spindles installed yesterday. New bearings installed and will try and get the jeep box installed after the new Borgeson U joint gets here.
 
A Arms back on the frame and Vintage is leveled and temporary in the passenger compartment.
Ran into a small problem the jeep box retro. The universal I ordered from Borgeson was two small to fit my steering column shaft. U joint is about .020 to small. Returning to Summit. May try another universal or just go back to a rag joint.

When doing my rack install ten years ago, I just pulled a ton of Ujoints out of a local junkyard, so as to mix/match and restake the bearings....works like a charm....
 
A Arms back on the frame and Vintage is leveled and temporary in the passenger compartment.
Ran into a small problem the jeep box retro. The universal I ordered from Borgeson was two small to fit my steering column shaft. U joint is about .020 to small. Returning to Summit. May try another universal or just go back to a rag joint.

When doing my rack install ten years ago, I just pulled a ton of Ujoints out of a local junkyard, so as to mix/match and restake the bearings....works like a charm....

I spoke with Borgeson on Friday and they told me they only had 1 size for this application and it measured .990 so it should slide on my .980 shaft as long as splines are straight. The one I got from Summit measured .970 but didn't want to get into a discussion that maybe their broach was worn out when that part was made.
Don't know if its possible to even find a combination since its a 1-48 spline by 18mm DD u joint.
When I go to the local junk yards today if its not in the computer they don't think it ever existed. I don't even know of a junk yard in this area where you can go in the yard and remove parts by yourself, let alone find one that has 35 year old usable parts.
 
A Arms back on the frame and Vintage is leveled and temporary in the passenger compartment.
Ran into a small problem the jeep box retro. The universal I ordered from Borgeson was two small to fit my steering column shaft. U joint is about .020 to small. Returning to Summit. May try another universal or just go back to a rag joint.

When doing my rack install ten years ago, I just pulled a ton of Ujoints out of a local junkyard, so as to mix/match and restake the bearings....works like a charm....

I spoke with Borgeson on Friday and they told me they only had 1 size for this application and it measured .990 so it should slide on my .980 shaft as long as splines are straight. The one I got from Summit measured .970 but didn't want to get into a discussion that maybe their broach was worn out when that part was made.
Don't know if its possible to even find a combination since its a 1-48 spline by 18mm DD u joint.
When I go to the local junk yards today if its not in the computer they don't think it ever existed. I don't even know of a junk yard in this area where you can go in the yard and remove parts by yourself, let alone find one that has 35 year old usable parts.




That's a friggin shame, but you not looking at 35 y/o cars, you are looking at ANY car that you can mix/match the joints off, which is what I did, including the intermediate shaft I have on my rack install it's a DD slider deal my welder buddy fixed in position.....we have a whole bunch of yards here that allow us to wander and pull parts....sounds like some damn judge got stupid in your state....:suicide:
 
A Arms back on the frame and Vintage is leveled and temporary in the passenger compartment.
Ran into a small problem the jeep box retro. The universal I ordered from Borgeson was two small to fit my steering column shaft. U joint is about .020 to small. Returning to Summit. May try another universal or just go back to a rag joint.

When doing my rack install ten years ago, I just pulled a ton of Ujoints out of a local junkyard, so as to mix/match and restake the bearings....works like a charm....

I spoke with Borgeson on Friday and they told me they only had 1 size for this application and it measured .990 so it should slide on my .980 shaft as long as splines are straight. The one I got from Summit measured .970 but didn't want to get into a discussion that maybe their broach was worn out when that part was made.
Don't know if its possible to even find a combination since its a 1-48 spline by 18mm DD u joint.
When I go to the local junk yards today if its not in the computer they don't think it ever existed. I don't even know of a junk yard in this area where you can go in the yard and remove parts by yourself, let alone find one that has 35 year old usable parts.




That's a friggin shame, but you not looking at 35 y/o cars, you are looking at ANY car that you can mix/match the joints off, which is what I did, including the intermediate shaft I have on my rack install it's a DD slider deal my welder buddy fixed in position.....we have a whole bunch of yards here that allow us to wander and pull parts....sounds like some damn judge got stupid in your state....:suicide:
Lawyers and stupid liability laws. I remember walking under and around the lifts and wandering around the shops not that long ago, when the mechanic was servicing or fixing something under my cars.
 
Did you end up going with the holley ECM? Is this going to be cable run throttle or drive by wire? Adding cruise to a drive by with is as simple as wiring in two switches.
 
Did you end up going with the holley ECM? Is this going to be cable run throttle or drive by wire? Adding cruise to a drive by with is as simple as wiring in two switches.

I have the Holley ECU. It is going to be cable TB. The reason I went with cable was because of my transmission 2004R has a TV cable. I have 4 inputs and 4 outputs for the Holley ECU. Going use 2 of them for the fans.
 

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The stock shifter is very sloppy so time for upgrade. Finally got around to reworking the shifter today. Waiting on a few other parts for the LS and jeep box. Purchased the B&M quicksilver several months ago. Trying to keep the stock boot and console with out to much modifications. May cut the tunnel some for the cable to feed straight into the attaching point.
 

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Another while I am there. Removed 6 of the 8 body mount bolts. Just have the last 2 in the rear and need to reconstruct the rear mounts. The metal mounts are rusted out and the fiberglass housing will need some work to be able to support the mount. Only had one bolt so far that required the cheater bar. PB blaster on the bolts for a couple of days and will tackle the rear.. Also got the rest of the cruise control removed and the calipers painted.
 
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