bobs77vet
Well-known member
nice....
Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
now with shiney bits
$900 delivered. For the price, they're amazing. They need a couple hours each of porting, polishing, and edge-dulling.... but heavens.... I may get them shaved too, 9.5:1 is a bit low for my goals.
$900 delivered. For the price, they're amazing. They need a couple hours each of porting, polishing, and edge-dulling.... but heavens.... I may get them shaved too, 9.5:1 is a bit low for my goals.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
well, news is still news.
I figured, based upon measuring, that I'd need to do a split 20/30 under bearing, I was right....
at least the deck height is zero... too bad,
and I put some color on it
too bad - did I say too bad, yep. with 119cc heads instead of the 110 cc that I got with the motor the compression ratio is a disappointing 8.97:1. I can help it with .027 head gaskets (which are .012 thinner then the FelPro) and bring it to 9.17:1 but I think I'm going to either have to deck the block and/or deck the heads as well to get the 10:1 that I desire.... not a huge deal, but I'm not building a swill-gas-motor so steps will be taken.
I figured, based upon measuring, that I'd need to do a split 20/30 under bearing, I was right....
at least the deck height is zero... too bad,
and I put some color on it
too bad - did I say too bad, yep. with 119cc heads instead of the 110 cc that I got with the motor the compression ratio is a disappointing 8.97:1. I can help it with .027 head gaskets (which are .012 thinner then the FelPro) and bring it to 9.17:1 but I think I'm going to either have to deck the block and/or deck the heads as well to get the 10:1 that I desire.... not a huge deal, but I'm not building a swill-gas-motor so steps will be taken.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
comparing the two heads
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
In that vein, worked on the transmission today
these are what stopped me (and a ball bearing that is MIA).... I forgot to ask the PO how he did this to the snap rings, though probably a good thing I didn't, they look like there was a war.
a brief modification of a box to make removal of parts easier
for having three teeth floating around inside, it looks really good inside (and the synchros are in great shape
and yeah, missing teeth
have the gear, no idea what I did with my bearing splitter... ah well, I need more snap rings too
bright side is I found the motor mounts that I was looking for - of course, the person who needed them got mounts a couple weeks ago. Par would be finding the bearing splitter 2 weeks after I buy another.
these are what stopped me (and a ball bearing that is MIA).... I forgot to ask the PO how he did this to the snap rings, though probably a good thing I didn't, they look like there was a war.
a brief modification of a box to make removal of parts easier
for having three teeth floating around inside, it looks really good inside (and the synchros are in great shape
and yeah, missing teeth
have the gear, no idea what I did with my bearing splitter... ah well, I need more snap rings too
bright side is I found the motor mounts that I was looking for - of course, the person who needed them got mounts a couple weeks ago. Par would be finding the bearing splitter 2 weeks after I buy another.
BangkokDean
Well-known member
making good progress :thumbs:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
got the intake
and checked the bearing clearance, 30 under bearings it was.
and got the cometic .027 gaskets
baby steps
and checked the bearing clearance, 30 under bearings it was.
and got the cometic .027 gaskets
baby steps
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I love tools that are older then me but work well for their purpose... 1950 Cornwell
pulled the heads apart so I can take them down to be decked.. they don't look bad - honestly, I'd recommend them so far.... as you'll see why through these pictures
the shop didn't touch the heads other then the machine work to put the valves in and their seats... all driver-quality stuff too. I'm impressed with the work - they seem to have taken the "we'll spend a couple extra dollars for the stuff we have to machine, but stuff like valve springs, retainers, and clips we'll cheap out" which is excellent because those are a lot cheaper to redo then someone setting a seat in crooked or whatever.
nice, undercut stainless valves - note the 3 angle valve job. Not unobtainium, not necessarily race, but a dang good start
same with the intake
they do need porting and I suppose a 5 angle cut on the valves (not going to). The ports need blending and (of course) port matching the intake... but here's why I like these - all stuff you can do at home without anything more then patience and a good dust mask...
pulled the heads apart so I can take them down to be decked.. they don't look bad - honestly, I'd recommend them so far.... as you'll see why through these pictures
the shop didn't touch the heads other then the machine work to put the valves in and their seats... all driver-quality stuff too. I'm impressed with the work - they seem to have taken the "we'll spend a couple extra dollars for the stuff we have to machine, but stuff like valve springs, retainers, and clips we'll cheap out" which is excellent because those are a lot cheaper to redo then someone setting a seat in crooked or whatever.
nice, undercut stainless valves - note the 3 angle valve job. Not unobtainium, not necessarily race, but a dang good start
same with the intake
they do need porting and I suppose a 5 angle cut on the valves (not going to). The ports need blending and (of course) port matching the intake... but here's why I like these - all stuff you can do at home without anything more then patience and a good dust mask...
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
heads are shaved
comparison to before
comparison to before
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
a bit was accomplished on the motor
first step was put the dowels back in the block
and then set the gaskets on
a nice coating of dykem
then pull the crank
and set the heads on to mark them
and to verify clearance of the valves
not a lot but good enough
hmmm....I'm not sure, but I think these might cause a leak
waiting on gaskets so I can mark then blend the intake and do the porting
first step was put the dowels back in the block
and then set the gaskets on
a nice coating of dykem
then pull the crank
and set the heads on to mark them
and to verify clearance of the valves
not a lot but good enough
hmmm....I'm not sure, but I think these might cause a leak
waiting on gaskets so I can mark then blend the intake and do the porting
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
transmission together
gasket - not so much, but useful for what I'm doing now..
gasket - not so much, but useful for what I'm doing now..
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
onward
time to start on the grinding (blech)
inventory.... no mandrels...
time to start on the grinding (blech)
inventory.... no mandrels...
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I've really been admiring the DSE front suspension - especially the shortening of the upper control arm.... as I'm a contrarian, and I think they care about putting the car back to stock and I want to guarantee that there will be a TV show about the crap I build and them 'undoing' it in 50 years... that means, I'm cutting the upper mount off and putting it further out on the frame (like the DSE adapter does) out to increase camber gain upon compression
what would be a good baseline to start for a manual rack but capable of turning a 305 20 18 tire? Is there a good ratio of upper control arm to lower control arm? I've read the racecar book (name escapes me) I realize there will be a great deal of effort required to turn a large tire like that - but most dedicated track cars seem to pull it off.... as with the rest of this car, comfort is a nice thing for other cars... I want to be fast.
I know I'm an idiot for asking - but anyone want to enlighten me on why that is true?
what would be a good baseline to start for a manual rack but capable of turning a 305 20 18 tire? Is there a good ratio of upper control arm to lower control arm? I've read the racecar book (name escapes me) I realize there will be a great deal of effort required to turn a large tire like that - but most dedicated track cars seem to pull it off.... as with the rest of this car, comfort is a nice thing for other cars... I want to be fast.
I know I'm an idiot for asking - but anyone want to enlighten me on why that is true?
The width of the tire has an influence on scrub radius as does wheel offset etc. Large scrub radius would result in high steering effort at low speed.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
on a clean sheet redesign of the front - wouldn't moving the track width center line towards the middle of the tire help with this?
Absolutely.
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,436
I have a steeroids rack used as a manual rack. Parking is the only time it is noticeable effort.
As far as shorter a arms. Making your own spindle like DSE might be tough, but fab'ing a new a arm pivot wouldn't be too bad (like DSE). Pick an a arm like SPC, which are just threaded rods, and you could be half way there.
Some of the fabricated spindles being sold for racing are pretty simple, but it is a critical part. Not sure I'd want to go there myself.
As far as shorter a arms. Making your own spindle like DSE might be tough, but fab'ing a new a arm pivot wouldn't be too bad (like DSE). Pick an a arm like SPC, which are just threaded rods, and you could be half way there.
Some of the fabricated spindles being sold for racing are pretty simple, but it is a critical part. Not sure I'd want to go there myself.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I'm pretty sure that DSE spindle is a C6 spindle that they reversed sides to make them rear steer
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,436
If so, that would make it relatively straight forward.
Oh yeah, my front tires are approx 12 in wide with the manual rack.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Stuff is gonna get real
