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  #441  
Old 10-26-2018, 04:44 AM
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SuperBuickGuy SuperBuickGuy is offline
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more incremental progress
this

is now this



more trimming in the wheel well



and now make it hold itself up


the back bolt lines up with the front edge of the bracket I made


and is 9 9/16 from the bottom of the bolt head holding the cradle in place to the center of the rear-most bolt
front, I can't remember off the top of my head but it's roughly 9 and change above the bolt head of the front bracket.... in real numbers 1 1/2 above the 2x4 I built in the front, 1" below the top of the frame on the rear... (ish).
overall width from flat of the bracket to flat is 39 3/8

front... the upper arm needs to move back about 1" in this picture

​​​​​​​
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  #442  
Old 10-29-2018, 06:25 PM
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I'm hoping at SEMA I can find a wheel sponsor

back to frame mods



eyeballing





kind of sort of where it goes

I know I drive some nuts with how I do this.... here, let me be first to melt your snowflake, I don't care if you like my way or not

first is notch the frame - that white line needs to line up with the rear-most bolt on the a-arm


clean



weld nuts inside

weld to piece



I think the front is too low thus the notching you see next


lots of cutting that original notch later




other side - this is pretty close to where it needs to live.... note the angles and diverging bits.edited I think GM thought through all the points of a corner (and I'm going to check this) so that when the car goes right, the tire moves towards the rear tire (basically using the dirt-track method to help the car go left)... thus these aren't parallel with each other, but rather it does several things to help turn


​​​​​​​anyway, the answer to that question won't happen until next week....edited
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  #443  
Old 11-07-2018, 01:15 AM
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wow that's nice
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  #444  
Old 11-07-2018, 05:29 AM
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back from SEMA, back to work



and this is wrong.... this is also why I mock then walk away


still wrong


this is correct... note how the upper arm moved up about 2"?




so some dimensions for a coil over manufacturer






I'm bracing myself for the costs of the coilovers then the wheels then the tires..... cheap or fast....edited
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  #445  
Old 11-07-2018, 10:38 AM
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I like the “snowflake” comment. If it was an original 63 split window or L88 car, maybe. But that is the beauty of a C3 late model car, prices are low and there are lots for sale in various states of disrepair.

I saw a picture the other day of a c3 race car with a front transverse spring. Probably cheaper than coil overs if you use c5 parts.

Last edited by rtj; 11-07-2018 at 10:46 AM..
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  #446  
Old 11-08-2018, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtj View Post
I like the “snowflake” comment. If it was an original 63 split window or L88 car, maybe. But that is the beauty of a C3 late model car, prices are low and there are lots for sale in various states of disrepair.

I saw a picture the other day of a c3 race car with a front transverse spring. Probably cheaper than coil overs if you use c5 parts.
I like rubber bumper C3s because I rarely get a chalk-sniffer complaining what I did to the car.

I really seriously considered Bob's spring offer - but came to the conclusion that I am not certain enough about ride height to commit to it. There is no adjustment (lowering) for the transverse spring. I met the Senior Product Developer for Aldan Coilovers at SEMA. We talked and now I've ordered a set of coilovers (off the shelf, thankfully) for my car. Since it's Summit where I got it from, expect that picture next Monday....
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  #447  
Old 11-08-2018, 11:49 PM
Red77 Red77 is offline
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I've been traveling for work, so it's nice to catch up. Looks like you're making some great progress.
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  #448  
Old 11-11-2018, 10:57 PM
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Looks like c5’s can use lowering bolts, but probably not as easy to change/adjust as coil-overs. Waiting to hear driving impressions.
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  #449  
Old 11-12-2018, 05:04 AM
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a large part of me (and one that is currently winning) has me driving this in this form this summer then blow it apart next winter for paint, frame welding, and stuff like that

Under the headline, I'll take lucky over good every time.edited Yes, the Camaro unitized bearings bolt directly into the Corvette spindle




what doesn't bolt is the caliper

only about 1/2" off...


trimming is required

a good hack but not enough

that's better



however there's another issue that I don't know if I'm going to (or even can) fix


notice the perpendicular to the ground?
not so much up here


before I get too jiggy with the brakes, though, time to finalize the front suspension by yet another round of balls and measures


A key point here.... at the moment (other then perpendicular upper control arm issue, I'm well within factory tolerance of 1/8".... 1/32 - the key point is this, don't spend your life trying to make this perfect, there are no perfect roads therefore there is no perfect suspension.
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  #450  
Old 11-12-2018, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
a large part of me (and one that is currently winning) has me driving this in this form this summer then blow it apart next winter for paint, frame welding, and stuff like that

..........................................
the key point is this, don't spend your life trying to make this perfect, there are no perfect roads therefore there is no perfect suspension.
I agree with your philosophy.

1) I used to paint and polish new stuff when I modified my car. But I quickly found that after some test miles or track days that I was too often just having to grind off the paint to cut and modify/weld the parts to change geometry issues or assembly/serviceability difficulties. Now I just focus on the functionality of the part, and worry about aesthetics later.

2) I also share your thoughts on the lack of perfect roads/tracks.


A question about the Camaro wheel bearing assembly you mentioned earlier. Are there different specifications for those versus the Corvette parts?
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