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  #561  
Old 06-02-2020, 01:12 PM
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Ford uses pressurized tanks on the majority of the vehicles they've built in the last 20-25 years. Having worked with several in the late 90's, I'm not sure there's much weight savings with the ones I worked on compared to the Harrison tank on your 69. Takes a lot of plastic and glue to contain the same heated pressure than a thin aluminum tank can withstand. That being said, it may still be worth a look with a scale. They aren't hard to remove and there must be a ton of them in the scrap yards to choose from.
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  #562  
Old 06-03-2020, 03:12 PM
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Ford uses pressurized tanks on the majority of the vehicles they've built in the last 20-25 years. Having worked with several in the late 90's, I'm not sure there's much weight savings with the ones I worked on compared to the Harrison tank on your 69. Takes a lot of plastic and glue to contain the same heated pressure than a thin aluminum tank can withstand. That being said, it may still be worth a look with a scale. They aren't hard to remove and there must be a ton of them in the scrap yards to choose from.
I suspect you are correct on your points here.
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  #563  
Old 06-03-2020, 03:35 PM
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Default Trying a lithium battery.

I ordered a lithium battery to try out. I was initially interested in Antigravity's 680CA 4# model, but the sales guy there wasn't confident that it would work satisfactorily in my car. He steered me to the 880CA model, that to my frustration was 25% heavier and similarly 25% more expensive. I bitched and grumbled for a few days, and then finally said screw it, and decided to give it a try. I'm waiting for it to arrive sometime within a week, and I'll let you know if it was money well spent, or completely wasted.

I'm presently using a 16# 360CA $35 garden tractor battery, which works quite well in my car. This new battery has pretty big shoes to fill.
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  #564  
Old 06-07-2020, 02:16 PM
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How about this. The U shaped frame that holds the Headlight door has two struts that run between the two lower bolts on the actuator and the "legs" of the U frame. They are about 8-9 inches long, about 5/16 or 3/8 dia. steel rods and there are 4 of them. Quick calculation is about 1/4lb each. Remove them or replace w/ aluminum?

Just a thought. I'm installing headlight assemblies right now and it kind of struck me that these weren't very useful. In fact you have to loosen them to tweak the U frame forward legs into place. Then the rods don't fit very well. When tightened, they probably put more stress on the U frame than act as a gusset.
I'll take a look at them. Thanks.
Here is another opportunity to remove weight with the headlights. There are brackets on each headlight door that limit the opening of the door. I think you will find that these do not really work anymore. There were rubber stops on the adjustment screws that are probably long gone. These weigh 1lb each! So removing those and the brace rods is ~3lbs of the nose of the car.

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  #565  
Old 06-07-2020, 06:34 PM
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Another easy one (relatively speaking)...
The "headlight opening cover stop" I just looked at mine and it is 1/4" thick steel! Looks like a prime candidate for some aluminum with some speed holes


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We're on the same wavelength. (I've since opened up the holes a bit more.)

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Larry, you, vette427sbc, and I have the same thoughts on those overbuilt parts.
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  #566  
Old 06-08-2020, 03:10 AM
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I managed to take a half pound off by swapping out the 3/4" heater hose between the water pump and the expansion tank, and replacing it with 3/8" hose (less material and water weight).

Took another quarter pound off by replacing the distributor shield steel brackets with aluminum substitutes.

Made the R&P steering attachment bracket out of aluminum, and drilled a few holes in the steel LCA crossmember, for about a 3# reduction in weight. The aluminum LCA replacement crossmember is about 80% finished, and should end up about 8# lighter than the present steel crossmember. I just ran out of time, and put the steel crossmember back in the car so I can get it ready for some track days this month.

I have an aluminum cold air box that seals up to the L88 hood, that I might be able to replace with thinner aluminum. I couldn't weld the very thin stuff very well when I made the box, but I'm curious if I can do the thin material with those aluminum "soldering" rods I see advertised. I need to pick up some of that stuff and practice on some thin pieces of aluminum sheet.
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  #567  
Old 06-12-2020, 01:57 AM
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Default Lithium battery installed.

I got the lithium replacement battery installed yesterday in the passenger side storage box (where I've had the batteries for several years). The battery is a touch taller than my garden tractor battery, but 10# lighter (the website says this battery is 5.25#, but my two HF scales each say 5.75#. Oh well.). The battery cranks my engine quite well, seems happy with my lightweight Denso alternator (13.6v), and so far has been able to deal with some hot engine/minor flood cranking episodes while getting the newly installed distributor retimed. Hopefully this decent luck will continue.
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  #568  
Old 06-12-2020, 07:31 PM
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What brand is the battery? I just bought an odyssey PC625 but with 6mm studs instead of the typical SAE terminals so I can ditch the heavy “lead” cable ends for some much lighter (duty) ring terminals
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  #569  
Old 06-12-2020, 08:16 PM
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What brand is the battery? I just bought an odyssey PC625 but with 6mm studs instead of the typical SAE terminals so I can ditch the heavy “lead” cable ends for some much lighter (duty) ring terminals
It's the Antigravity ATX-30 model. It has the "square" top terminals that uses vertical bolts to hold down the cable loops.

I've been running custom cables (aluminum wire and terminals on the latest) with loop ends to work on the previous garden tractor batteries.
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  #570  
Old 06-13-2020, 10:07 PM
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Default Formed wire style distributor clamp

Had one of those odd wire-type distributor clamps in a pile of old parts. It was a couple ounces lighter than the ubiquitous stamped steel clamps, so I put it on the other day while I was retiming the distributor. Hopefully the reason these things are rarely seen is not because they don't clamp well.

Any horror stories about these?
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  #571  
Old 09-02-2020, 01:36 AM
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Default Junkyard amusements today.

Was wandering around one of the local U-Pull-it junkyards today, and found a couple items with some possible potential.

The first was an air filter housing that, shape-wise, looked like something from a 1974 Ford (Round lid and body, and a square intake snorkle), but it was all aluminum. Damn light. I don't know what it was off of, but it was sitting on the ground near the LF tire of a reasonably late model Silverado, which has no connection to an air filter of that configuration that I'm aware of. Regardless, I've been kicking around changing my carb air intake from the present cowl location, to one that picks up the air from in front of the radiator. I haven't had the chance to measure the pressure difference (at speed) between these two locations yet, but my gut feeling is the air is denser in front of the radiator than at the entrance of the L88 scoop.

The second item was rather interesting. While looking at some loose suspension and steering parts under a BMW 328 (IIRC), I noticed several clean shiney bolts laying on the ground. Appearance-wise, they looked like stainless steel 12mm bolts (by about 1 3/4" long). I picked one of them up, and immediately noticed that it didn't have the weight of a steel bolt. I'm not an expert in titanium, but my impression is that titanium is a grayer color than SS or aluminum, so I don't think they're titanium. There was some lettering stamped on the bolt head (which was like a male Torx design), and some of the lettering didn't make sense to me, but it looked like it did have AL on another area of the head. So, I'm guessing these are aluminum bolts. I have no idea what they were used for (please clue me in if anybody knows), but I might just get a few of these next trip and try to find an appropriate place to use them on my car.
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  #572  
Old 09-02-2020, 10:17 AM
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You can buy aluminum bolts at Mcmaster Carr:

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And titanium:

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Listed titanium as 130ksi tensile vs. 30ksi for aluminum
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  #573  
Old 09-03-2020, 12:47 AM
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You can buy aluminum bolts at Mcmaster Carr:

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And titanium:

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Listed titanium as 130ksi tensile vs. 30ksi for aluminum
Yeah, I looked at the titanium bolts a while back. I knew they wouldn't be cheap, but I hoped I could justify it by using them in high up places (intake manifold and header bolts) and up front (water pump, and alternator/pwr-steering pump brackets). But after doing the $/# weight reductiuon calculations, I just couldn't make the economics work.

I might head back to the junkyard and see if I can find some other BMW cars that have those aluminum bolts, and figure out what they were using them for.

Somehow, I anticipate some difficulty/frustration when they try to figure out a price for those bolts, as I can't see that there's a lot of guys who purchase those things.
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  #574  
Old 09-03-2020, 02:33 AM
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The other thing to consider is that those bolts are all metric...
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  #575  
Old 09-03-2020, 10:49 AM
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Check out aircraft surplus, might find some bargains.
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  #576  
Old 09-20-2020, 01:57 PM
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Guys are using these kubota alternators. Might require a pulley swap.

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  #577  
Old 09-20-2020, 06:39 PM
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Guys are using these kubota alternators. Might require a pulley swap.

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Some interesting discussions. I appreciate it.
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  #578  
Old 09-20-2020, 06:52 PM
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Default Front bumper support.

Next project is an aluminum replacement for the front bumper support (that big piece behind the center grille). IIRC a fellow VM member here weighed his and it came out at about 6#. Not a lot of meat there to remove, but it's in front of the wheelbase, and I'll take the weight loss whenever/wherever I can find it.
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  #579  
Old 09-21-2020, 12:00 PM
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If you are describing the big U shaped brace, I have mine out right now. I weighed it at 6lbs 6oz.

I am close to installing that part on my car. I've been looking at it trying to learn how it functions to support the nose of the car (and the corner braces). There is a steel rod that goes from the front of the U shaped brace to the bottom of the radiator support (except for 68 and some early 69's). This rod probably does the bulk of the support of the nose but it would be more effective it it was mounted higher on the radiator support. That way there would be very little cantilevered load on the U shaped brace.

I need to come up with something there to accommodate a front mounted air filter, if that is the route I go.
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  #580  
Old 09-21-2020, 04:15 PM
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If you are describing the big U shaped brace, I have mine out right now. I weighed it at 6lbs 6oz.

I am close to installing that part on my car. I've been looking at it trying to learn how it functions to support the nose of the car (and the corner braces). There is a steel rod that goes from the front of the U shaped brace to the bottom of the radiator support (except for 68 and some early 69's). This rod probably does the bulk of the support of the nose but it would be more effective it it was mounted higher on the radiator support. That way there would be very little cantilevered load on the U shaped brace.

I need to come up with something there to accommodate a front mounted air filter, if that is the route I go.
Can you go into some more depth with your thought there? I've never seen much engineering discussion about the support structure there, and I've been curious about that small rod.
I've looked at that rod placement, and the only function I can see is a slight (half cycle) dampening if the front end starts vibrating at high speed and aero buffeting. I agree that a higher placement of the rod anchor point would improve support of the front end, but I suspect that the hood, when open, would compete for some of the same spatial area.
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  #581  
Old 09-23-2020, 11:16 AM
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The support for the nose of the car looks like a compromise between what is ideal and what would fit the car. Probably all caused by the open hood taking up the space needed to do it properly (as you describe).

The triangulation of the center brace by the rod is really poor. I question the effectiveness of it in the first place. Also, the nose of the car is notched so that the bumper attaches directly to the bracket and does not really support the nose body work. The corner braces do capture the body between the brace and the bumper but how effectively does that support the nose. Support of the nose appears to be accomplished by the headlight brackets that are mounted directly to the bumper. That is a pretty convoluted system for a support.

I don't have a good answer but I was hoping to use a conical front mounted air filter in between the U shaped center brace. Unfortunately, the rod is in that space so I need to come up with something else.
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  #582  
Old 09-29-2020, 11:37 PM
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BBshark, there was a guy building a snorkel that went over the rad to an airbox filter on cf. That design might allow you to put a filter on the inlet and tie into your TB. I was kind of amazed he snaked it through there. Probably not hard to tweak/fab.

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On another note, cf one piece roof. Lightweight isn’t cheap. I posted some of his vids and he mentioned this, but didn’t show it.

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Fiberglass lower cost version

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Last edited by rtj; 09-29-2020 at 11:44 PM..
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  #583  
Old 10-19-2020, 12:27 AM
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Default Pondering aluminum glasspack mufflers.

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The in-progress picture above is one of the aluminum mufflers I made a few years back, replacing the Dynomax turbos previously on the car. The Dynomax pieces sounded nice and flowed well, but were 16# each. The aluminum replacements ended up at 10# each. They flow well and I'm told they're pretty quiet at WOT. They were a lot of work to fabricate, but I think I can make a couple glasspack syle mufflers pretty easily. They ought to be noticeably lighter, and if the noise level increase is also noticeable, I can just use them at the track, and keep the full size mufflers for street duty.
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  #584  
Old 10-20-2020, 07:08 PM
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BBshark, there was a guy building a snorkel that went over the rad to an airbox filter on cf. That design might allow you to put a filter on the inlet and tie into your TB. I was kind of amazed he snaked it through there. Probably not hard to tweak/fab.
Haven't made this yet but according to my measurements, this will work.

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  #585  
Old 10-21-2020, 09:58 PM
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How do you plan to fab it? That guy at cf was making two halves and then bonding them.
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  #586  
Old 10-23-2020, 03:50 AM
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Has anyone tried pulling the air from the cowl or windshield wiper space
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  #587  
Old 12-30-2020, 09:07 PM
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Finished up the front bumper aluminum center support bracket a while back, and got it installed. The original steel bracket was 6.8#, and the replacement ended up at 4.4#. I was satisfied with that reduction, given that I don't feel like I scrimped on the material thickness that I used.

Leverage wise, a bit more than that 2.4# off the front axle, and a wee bit more of the vehicle rear mass allowed to settle back down on the rear axle.

Win-win.
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  #588  
Old 12-31-2020, 02:11 AM
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Excellent! That means you now have 2.4# for a small carbon fiber splitter - or low weight PVC airdam. Get back that "missing" mechanical downforce (weight) back at speed with some small aero improvements!
(put tongue in cheek Emoji here...)

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  #589  
Old 01-01-2021, 05:21 PM
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Excellent! That means you now have 2.4# for a small carbon fiber splitter - or low weight PVC airdam. Get back that "missing" mechanical downforce (weight) back at speed with some small aero improvements!
(put tongue in cheek Emoji here...)

Cheers - Jim
My Pace Car spoiler has a short "splitter" length in its design, and I've got a sheet of 1/8" Lexan under there going back to the suspension crossmember. The Lexan sheet and brackets weigh 4.6#, so the bumper bracket weight reduction helps get rid of about half of the mass penalty of the "splitter pan".
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  #590  
Old 01-01-2021, 05:37 PM
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While perusing one of the local U-Pull-it junkyards I noticed a couple cars with the bumper covers removed, and I noticed what looks like an extruded aluminum structure underneath. The shape looked like a capital B (looking into the extrusion). Got me thinking if one of these items might be a decent candidate to replace the extreme rear (bumper) crossmember on my frame. Down side is I suspect the stock steel crossmember weighs next to nothing, but it's just a guess.

I think I'll do some measurements of the frame crossmember material thickness and width/length, and try to calculate the volume/weight of the crossmember to see if this idea/change makes any sense.
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  #591  
Old 02-05-2021, 11:23 AM
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Ecklers is selling a 17 lb acrylic single piece roof for C3’s pretty reasonably.

What is one t top? 15?
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  #592  
Old 02-05-2021, 06:49 PM
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Ecklers is selling a 17 lb acrylic single piece roof for C3’s pretty reasonably.

What is one t top? 15?
I suspect you're pretty close. I've got mine stripped for more helmet room, and IIRC they're now 12# (each). The one piece unit you're talking about would shave another 8# up high.

I'll take a look at that. Thanks.
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Old 05-03-2021, 07:18 PM
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Ecklers is selling a 17 lb acrylic single piece roof for C3’s pretty reasonably.

What is one t top? 15?
I took a look at that top a while back. While I would love to take some additional weight off the car (particularly up high), the price tag for this top is out of my budget ($/#).

I appreciate the suggestion though.
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  #594  
Old 05-03-2021, 07:22 PM
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Default Later C3 battery cable question.

I read on another site where a poster says his '75 came with an aluminum positive battery cable. Anyone know if this is correct? This is the first time I've heard that mentioned.
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  #595  
Old 05-04-2021, 11:56 PM
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why not buy a set of fiberglass replica bumpers? they are only $2000 a set
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