T56 install in a '78

pancake

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Bigfoot Capital of Colorado
I picked up a T56 out of a '96 Camaro today. I putting together a list of parts to install it and wanted to discuss the swap with you guys since several have done it.

So.. First off.. My 383 is internally balanced so I cannot run the LT1 style pull clutch unless I have that rebalanced.. which I don't want to do.. plus I don't want the cast clutch basket. I have seen the Bob Weir push type throwout and that seems like a good option (http://weirhotrodproducts.com/). Any other options?

Second.. What to do about the VSS. Is there any other option than the jags that run?

How about a trans mount? TT - I know you have said you don't make the cross member removable.
 
You mean your 383 is a 2pc main seal? If it's a 1pc main seal roller block you CAN use the LT1 pull style clutch. The flywheel will bolt right on. the 1st rear blocks are not true internally balanced, they are for the front but the rear has no balance pad. If you have a 2pc rear seal, you can buy a conversion flywheel and use the LT1 bell, clutch & hyhdrauliucs w/ a C10 Master cyl. to make it easier to hook up the clutch


There's really nothing wrong with the cast bellhousing but I agree, a blowproof is a good addition. Check quicktime

Another option is to swap to a hydr. throwout bearing w/ push style clutch

Is your stock crossmember not removable? I would make it removable if it isn't it needs mods anyway to make the T56 fit

There's a guy on thirdgen.org who modifies tailhousings for cable drive speedos, do a search.
 
Nope, it's a 1 piece rms out of a '96 3/4 ton silverado. The builder told me the flywheel is neutral balanced.. and I thought the Lt1 flywheel was weighted?

I would prefer to convert to a push style clutch just because I've got a brand new flywheel, hayes clutch, etc.. in there. Though I will have to change the disk to a 26 spline since my car came with the Saginaw.

I saw that the guy on thirdgen.org is doing the conversions via ebay. I will likely end up doing that.

I guess I'll order up a set of the crossmember plates that someone on here had laser cut or water jetted.

As always, thank you for the info.
 
Do hydraulic ..... it makes life so much easier

oh I am looking forward to that... will be nice to get the zbar the hell out of the way.

I can actually point to the car that made me swear I'd never willingly have another z-bar.... a V8 S-10 pickup. It would randomly let the Z-bar fall off - and it was lowered, and it was 110* on the day the swear came.... did I mention the exhaust ran under the z-bar? :censored:

it's so easy to run hydraulic, though I'd do what I did on mine rather than find old GM parts.
 
Do hydraulic ..... it makes life so much easier

oh I am looking forward to that... will be nice to get the zbar the hell out of the way.

I can actually point to the car that made me swear I'd never willingly have another z-bar.... a V8 S-10 pickup. It would randomly let the Z-bar fall off - and it was lowered, and it was 110* on the day the swear came.... did I mention the exhaust ran under the z-bar? :censored:

it's so easy to run hydraulic, though I'd do what I did on mine rather than find old GM parts.

I did not always hate the zbar. But something about the way it fit with the engine swap made me hate it. It is a pain in the ass and always in the way, though. What hydraulic throaout did you use?
 
I'm the one that does the T56 cable speedometer drive conversions. If you have any questions please let me know.

Thanks
Dan
 
Dan asked that I remove everything bolted to the tail housing so I went out and pulled it apart.. which is super easy.

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There are two magnets in the bottom of the transmission and they were both relatively clean.

I just need to clean it up, box it, and send it to Washington state!
 
nothing good happens in Washington state....


what kind of hydraulic throw out

this one
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IIRC it's a McLeod - bought it from Speedway motors a coons age ago, and used a 5/8" wilwood master cylinder
 
I called the guys at Weir Hot Rod Products today to get a price on their push type conversion. They want $685 for a heavy duty bellhousing, dust shield, hydraulic throwout, and assorted fasteners.

The big deal is that he said the t56 won't work with a 153T flywheel because the 10.5" clutch disk will slip. Has anyone else experienced this?

Maybe the best idea is to order a neutrally balanced Lt1 flywheel and just go with that pull style setup. I think it will end up costing a lot less in the end. That way I can just go use the stock bellhousing, etc... and go from there.

Then again, the lt1 flywheel is 153t with a 10.5" clutch. I think. I think it will be fine. And the Mcleod 1400-22 hydraulic throwout is made to convert the lt1 to a push style clutch.

Any input?
 
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You can simply use a flywheel off an LT1 F body, they do NOT use the dual mass which is what the problem is about. The flywheel for your 1pc main block is NOT neutral balanced not is the bolt pattern the same as the earlier cranks. Your engine is 3/4 internally balanced, all it's lacking is the balance pad on the rear flange like the 2pc ones, this is then done with the flywheel or flex plate.
 
No, I can't just use the LT1 flywheel. It is an eagle 4340 forged crank that is internally balanced and I just got off the phone with them and verified that my application requires a neutral balanced flywheel.. which is exactly what my engine builder said and what is on the car.. and the LT1 flywheel does have a weight. So I can either get a neutral balance LT1 flywheel and new clutch, or go the cheaper route with the Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing.
 
Factory 1pc cranks are neutral on the front and external on the rear (23.4 oz/in) People call them internal balanced all the time.

Do you have a bobweight chart for it?
 
It is not a factory crank, but i do agree the factory cranks have the weighed flywheel. I will look in my documentation when I get a minute tonight.

The Eagle website refers to the neutral front and external rear as combination balance cranks, but the one I have says internal.
 
Ok, if they specifically list it as combination vs internal then yours is an internal balance crank. Can't use the LT1 flywheel then (the counterweight is cast in), Fidanza McLeod and others do make a neutral balance flywheel for the 1pc crank,
 
I found the Mcleod hardware (460350), and the Fidanza and Centerforce flywheels come with a removable weight which I would assume makes it zero balance (with the weight off). Due to the shorter length of the input shaft, I am beginning to think that swapping to a pull style clutch is the best route. I have also read some horror stories about using the Mcleod hydraulic throwout (pn# 1400-22) because it sometimes requires a custom machined bellhousing spacer for the right clearance... In the end, the cost to convert is just about the same as cobbling together some system to make it work push style.
 
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Was your car originally an auto or manual? Im putting mine together now as well and Im wondering WTF Im going to do with the x-member... Mine is welded in and I dont see an easy way to fab something up with it still attached to the frame (body staying on).
 
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