What would save more weight: battery compartment

Yellow73SB

Yellow73SB

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Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
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Cutting the whole fiberglass compartment out or just the metal part.

If it's the metal part, how would I go along doing this.

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I think they cut that out for easy access, not a whole lot of weight removed there. Remember, I cut that section out, it doesn't weigh a lot. It's just thin sheetmetal. However, if you remove it and don't have a cage to weld/fix the birdcage to, it will severely compromise the integrity and the rear floor is glued and pop riveted to that part on the underside.
 
I'm still doing those auto-x's once a month

But I need to get the car lighter to get it SCCA approved.

I need to do some hpde's first, Gotta change a couple things though, convert to manual, get rid of the silicone, and put on the jeep box.
 
It wouldn't really be SCCA club racing, slower cars like mine run with them.

The races are only like 30 minutes so I would only get lapped once
The cars out there looks like this

They aren't putting out any more than 500 horse.

And besides the matter I still have a long away until I get my license.

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redvetracr said:
Yellow73SB said:
What if I cut the whole cargo area out?
Click to expand...

you would need a bulkhead of some type (aluminum) to separate the driver from the fuel cell...I would do the 4spd sway first and the jeep box last....you need a 4spd you don`t need a jeep box...
Click to expand...

By the cargo area I just meant the storage box, it would be pretty easy to cover up.

I also have my stock doors and head lights I can sell and maybe try to get a lighter front clip.



For a 4 speed, either my dad is going to get his 5 speed kit and we can put his old tranny in or he would get one for the yellow car. The second is not very likely at all.

The car has to be under 3k or the roll cage won't be approved. I think I am going to try and weight it today.
 
Yellow73SB said:
redvetracr said:
Yellow73SB said:
What if I cut the whole cargo area out?
Click to expand...

you would need a bulkhead of some type (aluminum) to separate the driver from the fuel cell...I would do the 4spd sway first and the jeep box last....you need a 4spd you don`t need a jeep box...
Click to expand...

By the cargo area I just meant the storage box, it would be pretty easy to cover up.

I also have my stock doors and head lights I can sell and maybe try to get a lighter front clip.



For a 4 speed, either my dad is going to get his 5 speed kit and we can put his old tranny in or he would get one for the yellow car. The second is not very likely at all.

The car has to be under 3k or the roll cage won't be approved. I think I am going to try and weight it today.
Click to expand...

If you used 1.50 x .120 your ok. this is tubing size for GT and Production Categories for cars over 2500lb. Before I bought a set of scales, I used to go to the landfill and they would let me drive through with the car on the trailer, then I would go unload the car then take another drive through the landfill. It was close. Only scales in the rural area I live in.

Well, one thing is for sure, you can't acid dip the body like they did back in the late sixties in Trans Am racing.

AS and SS, IT require you to have 1.75x.120 for over 3000lb because they dont have as may braces as production and GT racers.
 
Last edited:
I have 1.625x.120

I'm going to go weight it at the local concrete dumping place, it's to the nearest 10 pounds and I think it's pretty accurate

I'm going to this shortly

My dad just picked a pair of rear flares for 150 also.
 
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