Manual master cylinder

That would work, that looks like how it was originally set up

Alright I'll get some steel and try to make that thing, the pattern is a bit funky, 3.5"x3.45" or something

Hopefully I'll win the C5 master for 20 bucks with shipping.

I'm also bidding on a tilton clutch and brake set-up but I'll probably let it go if I get outbid

Make sure you get the adapters first They are M12x1 and M12x1.5

I got the wrong ones of course (M10x1 & M10x1.5), so that's $50 down the drain there...going with some custom flex lines now. They're a whopping $165 but at least I won't have to worry about it or go part hunting.

What setup? ebay link?

you are NOT going to be satisfied with manual brakes.

The C3 is just too damn heavy for manual brakes.

How is this working out for you?

I do like how clean it looks, and I think the brakes would be sufficient for a Vette, my friends 68 Galaxie has four wheel drum and manual brakes and that was tough to stop in a hurry. Being heavier and having worn out components I'm sure were the causes. I always thought that disc brakes required stronger master cylinder than drum brakes did, maybe I'm mistaken.

Is there anywhere to source the mount bracket from?
And how does the rod connect to the back of the master cylinder?
I've only had to deal with power and hydroboost, never had a manual brake set up, other than a few beetles of course. Guess I could use a picture or something.

The picture below (Gator79?) was how someone went from manual to PB. So the new cut holes are for the booster. To convert to manual, you will need a new pushrod to the pedal and it is positioned in the upper hole (on the brake pedal arm) for manual brakes. Your brake light actuator bracket is probably in that hole now. You will need a manual brake light bracket.

Twin_Turbo said:

It places the MC where the booster would sit, factory manual MCs sat higher:

2nd pair of holes and upper large hole:


This was done so the rod is higher up giving a better pedal ratio for the manual mc.

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That's Cali-69s (or whatever his name was) pic

Yellow73SB said:

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Man that is nice!!!!

This is amusing to read. I am doing the exact opposite,Manual to Power and am encountering everything in reverse. I am trying to figure out all that has to be modified. I know the Booster will not bolt up to old MC holes. I have a template for the Booster holes but am not sure where to use as my start point. The two studs that held the MC or the bottom two bolts that do nothing but bolt to the bracket to firewall. I also need help with mods to the actuator arm and pedal assembly. I can not find any photos of this. I believe the pedal and or brackets are different. Why are you switching to Manual Brakes?

dp'69 welcome to the motley crew of the Flying Dutchmen.....

dp1969 said:

This is amusing to read. I am doing the exact opposite,Manual to Power and am encountering everything in reverse. I am trying to figure out all that has to be modified. I know the Booster will not bolt up to old MC holes. I have a template for the Booster holes but am not sure where to use as my start point. The two studs that held the MC or the bottom two bolts that do nothing but bolt to the bracket to firewall. I also need help with mods to the actuator arm and pedal assembly. I can not find any photos of this. I believe the pedal and or brackets are different. Why are you switching to Manual Brakes?

Click to expand...

You will reuse the bottom 2 holes in the firewall and will need to drill two new top holes and a 2.25 clearance hole for the booster, dead center. This is a template for the holes:



You will also need to drill new holes on the pedal bracket to the same dimensions. The power bracket is on the left and the manual on the right:



There are a number of other changes that need to be made. Since this thread is about doing the reverse, I don't want to hijack. If you would like more information about this you could start a new topic?

Alright so I finally have a brake pedal assembly and clutch pedal assembly.





I'll have to draw up a bracket to get laser cut to mount the master.

I also want to get the later model steering column support that weighs less.

some of the posts alluded to something i don't think was clearly stated.
The C3 MC's (ignoring internal bore size) came in two versions, depending upon your car is manual or power brakes. One MC version had a shallow input for the rod to e the clutch petal, and another MC version has a recessed input. The early C3's have one version of the MC and the later C3's have the later version. These MC's inputs were the same regardless of weather you have a PB or MB car. The important thing to know is that early C3's had clutch rods that were of different lengths than the later C3's. So when you buy a MC, you must buy one compatible with the year of your car. If yoy want to buy a PB MC or a MB MC it should be be one compatible with your year of C3. The clutch rods (MC to clutch pedal) are slightly different in length for early C3's than later C3's. Bottom line: When you order a MC, order one for you year of C3. .

I bought a aluminum MC from Stainless Steel Brake Corporation (SSBC). Their MC will work with any year C3, it has an adapter plug in the input for the clutch rod. Their MC is a direct bolt in replacement for the Delco Moraine MC that came with C3's. It cost about $370 from Summit. It's about $450 from SSBC. Looks really nice. One reason for buying the SSBC aluminum MC is weight. I'm replacing the vacuum canister of my PB with a Hydra Boost PB. The Hydra Boost is really heavy. I didn't want all the weight of a Hydra Boost and the stock cast iron Delco AC MC all cantilevered on the fire wall. So I relieved a little of the weight by buying an aluminum MC.

PS Although aluminum, the SSBC MC doesn't seem all that light weight. I think it has a lot of SS internals.