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  #491  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:45 AM
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time to remove the body bolts

mmmm... good sawblades

a good example.... the first two came out just fine (motor end), second took a bit of lube....edited

the last, a neanderthaledited


this is more for me - but I'm moving everything back 3/4" so knowing where the steering was will be useful when I build new motor mounts





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  #492  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:52 AM
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I bought the coating for the frame.... so once it's squared, plated, shortened, made pretty... a coat of paint and it'll be good for a long, long time
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  #493  
Old 01-13-2019, 05:46 AM
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a mistake... and what will stop me from completely getting the body off


up we go, hmm, nose low


once I removed the bumper brackets, and the clutch fork... up


and stopped here


did you guess the problem?edited the 68-73 rear curls under the rear valance .... had I put those jackstands on dollies - I could have moved the frame forward then completed the lift-off.... and my jack said "oh hell no" so tomorrow get a new jack then finish this.
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  #494  
Old 01-14-2019, 02:41 AM
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So I did do jack today... twice
new hotness

old brokenness

wait.... which one is broken?

I was all ready to proclaim how my Costco jack outlasted 2 HF jacks.... which, old brokenness did... problem was that was a factory sealed new one that was broken when they put it in the box.... ah well, just 2 hours I'll never get back
putting the new, new one to work

and the divorce is final




finally get to use this cart


this didn't last long, but it fits so I can move stuff around if needed




stiff stripped off..... more to come

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  #495  
Old 01-16-2019, 05:16 AM
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time to use my frame floor

oh yes, and tape measures

it really wasn't that far off (within GM manufacturing tolerances for the day).... but I can do much better, so I will


the challenge, of course, is getting it square to the floor (after verifying squareness of the frame)

lots of this action

It's close, I'll let it settle over night then do the front.edited The back is 1/16" off square, so I'll fix that as well... but that is for later this week
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  #496  
Old 01-21-2019, 05:53 AM
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time to make this real - of course, that means cutting it apart and making it look pretty.

the first step is to weld plates on the rearmost channels to hold things in place



measuring process


and it's cut apart.....


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  #497  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:10 AM
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Oh look, Jeep on a trailer.... what keeps sbg from PF2? yeah, a blasted Heep.


in other news, the Colorado hauls the Jeep even better then the Hummer did.

yet I still did get to fun stuff



even had a minute to hit the frame with a wire wheel in prep for welding the frame.edited I think I'm going to weld it with the motor in place then pull the motor, flip the frame then weld and brace the rest....
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  #498  
Old 01-25-2019, 05:48 AM
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time to start welding.... motor is in and it's resting level and on its suspension points.... and the frame wasn't flat, so I'll weld it flat in this processedited

look at the 'weld' to the left of the mig weld.... this is why welding the frame is so importantedited


this hole gets filled too


and the fun of straightening the usually bent rear brace


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  #499  
Old 01-28-2019, 04:10 AM
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weld frame to make square..... and beat on frame....edited


along with hanging weights, I did some flame wrench straightening .... frame is dead nuts square, but it has a slight rack to it (thus the weights)


someone told me once that it wasn't possible to shim the side pipes up with washers..... to that person, don't look


the problem, it turns out, I'm fixing anyway with a new driver's side motor mount (so it clears the steering shaft


time to start welding plates on


other side


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  #500  
Old 01-30-2019, 04:42 AM
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how to eat an elephant

time to fill holes


make squares


weld into place




this brace isn't totally needed but it will keep the frame solid when I drop the cradle

finally weld the upper shock mount
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more soon. I need to finish up, the more I look at this frame the worse it is.... passenger rail actually bows up.... for those curious, the datum line is the bar that runs behind the seats.edited it's square and squares everything I put on.. so where the metal goes to reach that point (as long as it doesn't interfere with the body) is fine.
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