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  #11  
Old 12-01-2008, 03:40 AM
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69427 69427 is offline
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Karsten,

I've got a spare flange. I believe it's unused, just sitting in my parts pile. I'm going C4 suspension on my '69, so I don't have a need for C3 repair parts. The flange is free for the asking. Just let me know.

Mike
Awesome !!!

I'm sending you a PM :-)
Hope this qualifies me for entry into Bird's Christmas giveaway program.
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2008, 03:45 AM
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It definitely qualifies you for free lunch next time we meet
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2008, 03:51 AM
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It definitely qualifies you for free lunch next time we meet
Gee, thanks for the invite guys........
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2008, 03:12 PM
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Couple of thoughts.
First I know you have the USA bearings,and parallel shims because I supplied them. One thing I didn't do was to grind the spacer parallel(didn't have it). I've found the spacers out as much as 005"
Every rear brg setup I do, I grind parallel the shims, spacers, and flanges.Everything that fits together is flat. Now as TT said the only way you can do this at home is to lap them on a flat surface.
It's not uncommon to find 010"+ using the spacers and shims from the original setup.
I set my endplay at 002 max but usually shoot for 0015" This can only be done by grinding too close by lapping. I suppose it can be done but you have to be very careful. Also the fixturing for holding and checking the endplay is critical. I bolt the support in place and use a c clamp in addition to the mag base to hold things tight. I also use a Starrett indicator, some of the cheap imports stick or have weak return springs. You only want the setup tool to move nothing else, that's why I won't do bearings on the car as shops do.
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2008, 03:29 PM
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I measured the spacer sleeve and it was out .004". I got it parallel within .001" but it took a long time with a file and sandpaper.
I still have to work on the second spacer, hopefully that one is better.

The .121" shim that I have is parallel within .0005". Whoever assembled these the last time had a surface grinder.

One of these TAs was assembled with slip fit bearings, that undersized spindle is what I use as my setup tool.
The spindle flange that came off this assembly is the one that is worn on the inboard side. maybe the inner bearing sleeve spun on the spindle wearing into the flange ???

Thanks for all the help.
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  #16  
Old 12-01-2008, 06:14 PM
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I measured the spacer sleeve and it was out .004". I got it parallel within .001" but it took a long time with a file and sandpaper.
I still have to work on the second spacer, hopefully that one is better.

The .121" shim that I have is parallel within .0005". Whoever assembled these the last time had a surface grinder.
This is strengthening my case to leave out the spacer alltogether and slip fit both bearings.
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  #17  
Old 12-01-2008, 06:26 PM
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The spindle flange is resting on the inner bearing inner race. If you do not install the sleeve and spacer and slip fit that bearing you are forcing the inner bearing onto the outer race when you're tightening the spindle flange nut.

Are you leaving that nut loose when you're not installing the sleeve/shim ??
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2008, 06:42 PM
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Are you leaving that nut loose when you're not installing the sleeve/shim ??
Bingo, Set it hand tight just like the front.

You think i'm dumb enough to torque it to 100 ft/lbs without a spacer? I'm no Dr. Crankenstein but give me some credit.
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2008, 06:45 PM
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He's doing them just like the fronts and honestly I don't see a very valid reason not to if you don't overtighten it. If it's good enough for the front, it's good enough for the back IMO.

The only reason the factory uses the spacer deal is because it's a press fit and therefore you can't tighten it down till it's snug. If you slip fit the whole deal you can.
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2008, 06:52 PM
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How do you secure the nut? Do you tighten it a little more to get the pin in or loosen it? What about bearing clearance ? I'd think it's either too tight or too loose since you have to turn the nut to fit the cotter pin ... not ?

I don't see anything wrong with it either except that IF the spindle breaks (which is not very common to my knowledge) the only thing holding the wheel on the car is the brake caliper....

I believe that if GM can save a penny they do, they even save a fraction of a penny and use Velcro instead of a plastic clip to hold a fuse panel cover on the dashboard (4th gen F-body).
They would NEVER make it a press fit if they thought it wasn't necessary.

Last edited by MYBAD79; 12-01-2008 at 06:59 PM..
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