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  #11  
Old 01-17-2009, 05:55 PM
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...that said mine have always been slip fit.
CASE CLOSED!
Since this seems to be the engineering consensus that is the way mine will go back together when/if I have to fix them.....like I said, been some years now, so to pay attention on my part.....
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:13 AM
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Gene,
just fyi...... after I swap my trailing arms with those that I just rebuilt I'll rebuild the ones that come off my '79.
I'll rebuild them just like the ones that I just did except stock or poly bushings instead of the JohnnyJoints.
They should be done some time spring/summer if you're interested....
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2009, 05:36 PM
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Most important thing to consider is to take the time to have bearing clearance within tolerance and with all needed spacers and shims in place.

Slip fit or press in the rears can be safe if following the design difference from the fronts due to the straight shaft in rear (needing the spacers and shims to make up the difference) vs the front spindle having a step design.

I would bottom line this repair as one not be left up to 'BUBBA' to do.
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  #14  
Old 03-01-2009, 01:17 AM
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I guess I need to change my name to "Bubba". I did the rears last winter. Had the T/A's off, took the nuts off turned them around backwards and smacked the end with a big bronze hammer. Spindles came right out. had a guy press the outer bearings off. I got new seals and repacked the bearings. Put the outer bearings in the housing with seals, put the spindle back in and used the same hammer to put them back in the bearings. Same shims too. Inner bearing back in, seated it with a drift, put the yoke and nut back on, torqued and checked the end play. I don't recall what it was, but it must have been real close to or right on what it should be or I would have taken it apart again. No problem so far.

I now have a 20 ton press, so no more paying someone to press stuff on/off.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:33 AM
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You lucked out then, I have a 50 ton press because a wimpy 20 ton wouldn't get mine apart. They were never worked on originals with the funny seals on the inside (the 2 pieces of steel w rubber in between and those folded metal "ears") anyway, being a 38K mile car, there was nothing wrong with the bearings but it was a bitch to get apart (had to do something about that rust and swapping to synthetic grease)

I finally broke the 20 ton when doing bearings on my daily driver, couldn't get the oomph I needed so I resorted to a long breaker bar on the handle, it didn't like that a lot LOL
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  #16  
Old 03-01-2009, 07:55 PM
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I finally broke the 20 ton when doing bearings on my daily driver, couldn't get the oomph I needed so I resorted to a long breaker bar on the handle, it didn't like that a lot LOL
I wonder how many people have been mamed trying to get these things apart?
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  #17  
Old 03-01-2009, 08:59 PM
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I finally broke the 20 ton when doing bearings on my daily driver, couldn't get the oomph I needed so I resorted to a long breaker bar on the handle, it didn't like that a lot LOL
I wonder how many people have been mamed trying to get these things apart?
OH, GOD, I remember decades ago, having a axle with the retainers in the brake drum area....NO C clip, and taking that axle/bearing to the shop to get pressed off....the guy said watch out, and stuck a bunch of heavy steel plates around the thing, and sure enough the outer race exploded, so he went to get the rest off, I forget how....

then I got smart...take a dremel and cut the inner race nearly though much as I can, take a cold steel chisel and hand sledge....break that inner race clean off there, then tap the new bearing on.....amazing how the tension on a inner race will snap that sucker after a dremel slot is cut into the surface and then encouraged with a hammer....

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  #18  
Old 03-02-2009, 01:36 AM
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Everything on Ol' Red I've worked on has been that easy. Even the bolts in the T/A's came out. Put a drift on the end of the bolt and tapped them both right out.

When I got the car the odometer had 7600 miles showing- that's on the S-W speedo- the original odometer showed 23k-something when the PO changed it to all S-W gauges. I was there when he did it in 1974. And it hadn't been out in the rain since then.
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  #19  
Old 03-15-2009, 05:36 PM
Arthur Brown Arthur Brown is offline
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There is a noise that sounds almost like tire or road noise, I'm worried I might have to check the bearings. How tight are these spindles after slip fitting ? I think I'll notice if mine are slip or press fit. If I can hammer them out they are slip fitted ?
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  #20  
Old 03-15-2009, 08:32 PM
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Hi

I rebuild a rear axle for a friend who sheared the spindle right where the engagement slots end due to miss-shifting of his automatic 78.
So the nut with it's retention torque is gone !

The only thing beside the brake caliper holding the wheel in situe is the press fitted bearings now and they well did.

I rebuild my 68th rears using the original press fit method after this.

The sheared spindle was on a stock 78, so here the weakest link of the drive train was the spindle.

Front spindles do not have this drive torque and I suspect that's why they have the ordinary slip fit .

Rgds. GŁnther
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