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  #11  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:48 PM
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How's your trailing arm bushings?
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  #12  
Old 06-20-2008, 12:03 AM
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You don't need any fancy trick parts for a street car, fix the rear suspension and you'll be fine. Check the bushings for wear,spring arch,bent strut rods, worn side yokes in the diff, bearing endplay.
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  #13  
Old 06-20-2008, 01:51 AM
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Holy ...

Numbers matching intake and powdercoating ??? Wow... build the car the way YOU want it.... a powdercoated intake in not "correct" so you might as well just buy one that performs better....

You do NOT need coilovers if you only want the suspension to function.... the stock suspension is not all that bad.... shocks make a difference, I am impressed with the Bilstein shocks, I am disgusted with KYB....

used calipper ?? A rebuilt calipper is only $65 at the "zone", stainless sleeved with lifetime warranty...

Dude... post here, ask questions before you spend money... let us help you safe money and avoid mistakes.....
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2008, 10:36 AM
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Wow you guys are great ....I don't post in months, I put up a rant about my issues and 3 responses with in hours...THANK YOU...
I still have not gotten it alligned so that will be the first step. The bushings were good, end play was fine, the only thing I was concerned about was the spring. I did not have it resprung ...I just painted it and put it back in (stupid right). I did not think bushings or endplay would make the thing jump all over the road after hitting a bump. You hear all these people talk about 68s and their performance issues with handling and you get discouraged....
MYBAD79 as for the powder coating the intake....yeah it is kind of silly, but did not want to mess around with chipped paint later on. Something easy to keep clean and shiny. The entire reason for changing it out and putting the correct carb and intake on is that it was not running the way it should. I have had the car 3 years and still have not felt even the 300 horses that it is supposed to have. The carb that is on it is a newer rochester and has about half a dozen vacum lines either blocked off or just sucking wind......I always have that moral delema wether or not to Mod it out or keep original. If it was not a 68....it would probably be an easir decission.
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2008, 02:40 PM
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Is your rear spring flat or does it still have some arc ? Look under the car when the cars' weight is on the suspension, if the spring is flat with no visible arc it's time for a new one.
You say the car jumps all over the road: if your rear shocks are old/worn/weak then that's exactly what happens. New Bilstein shocks will fix that problem.

I didn't say it's silly to powdercoat the intake, it's way better than paint... but you said you want it all original, that's why
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  #16  
Old 06-20-2008, 05:17 PM
h2ohouse h2ohouse is offline
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The shocks are brand new AC/delco nothing special, but I thought better than the originals from 1968....The spring has a bend to it yet.
As for the powder coating ....I've been thinking all day and maybe the cash only allows a coat of paint until next year. I will look at the shocks to make sure I didnt install correctly....
Thanks.
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  #17  
Old 06-22-2008, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h2ohouse View Post
The shocks are brand new AC/delco nothing special, but I thought better than the originals from 1968....The spring has a bend to it yet.
As for the powder coating ....I've been thinking all day and maybe the cash only allows a coat of paint until next year. I will look at the shocks to make sure I didnt install correctly....
Thanks.
I would change the rear spring, and use Bilsteins all around. BIG difference.
As for you HP, I would time the engine per the timing "stickey", check the end play in the dizzy, and send the carb out to a guy named Lars. At least read his instructions in the rebuilding section.
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  #18  
Old 07-07-2012, 03:05 AM
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Made the same mistake on the front hubs. POR-15'd them and threw the runout way off. Rather than fighting with trying to remove the POR, I made several shims out of a soda can and was able to shim until I was able to get the right side to .002 and left side to .003.
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  #19  
Old 07-07-2012, 10:55 PM
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Another thread comes back to life! Personally I'm not a big fan of shimming the rotor. You are only contacting on a couple points then and when you tighten the lug nuts your basically putting everything in a bind. I just sent my front hubs to Mike Dyer to be trued up. Hopefully no shims will be required then. By the way Mike always trues the rear spindles when he rebuilds trailing arms. Much better solution then shimming IMHO.
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:10 AM
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avoid shims if you can. try "clocking" the rotors to improve runout (and no, that's not the same as clocking an alternator)
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