Help - Seat switch

Any body got any suggestions? My wifes car seat switch needs to be disassembled and cleaned up a couple of times a year. The points seem to accumulate a coating of soot. Each time I have the thing apart I try a different coating [or none]. Naturally, the first time I dressed the points, used electrical contact cleaner, and assembled using dielectric grease. I have tried assembling it dry, or using wd40, nothing will allow the thing to last. The switch must be functional, she is very short legged, I can't even get in the car when she has the seat where she needs it. A new switch is well over $200.
Thanks for any suggestions or ideas,
Frank.

I'm thinking maybe I should try a different type of dielectric grease ..... ??

Points like to be clean and dry. I would use ZERO lubricant.

I use Dupont 5717S and then air dry.

IF the above don't fix it, photo of said switch, I MAY have one...maybe....

willing to look, anyway....

:shocking: I would polish the contacts with some steel wool, similar also, in addition to above....

:gurney:

Git 'er a pair of platform driving shoes

I agree with the clean and dry points thing but so many switches seem to be packed with grease.
DWncchs, how do you apply the 5717s in an electrical application? I see that it's an auto body product.

Gee, you know, I never thought about the driving shoes - resident devient is right :harhar:

00fxd said:

I agree with the clean and dry points thing but so many switches seem to be packed with grease.

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Maybe for the mechanical section, or water intrusion. Contacts NEED to be clean/dry. Dielectric grease means NON-Conductive. That would be OPPOSITE of the desired effect when on the contact area.

00fxd said:

DWncchs, how do you apply the 5717s in an electrical application? I see that it's an auto body product.

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Any modern contact cleaner will do. Get the cheapest shit. It's all the same stuff.

00fxd said:

I agree with the clean and dry points thing but so many switches seem to be packed with grease.
DWncchs, how do you apply the 5717s in an electrical application? I see that it's an auto body product.

Gee, you know, I never thought about the driving shoes - resident devient is right :harhar:

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After dis-assembly I would submerge the electrical part in the 5717 , remove shake off and let air dry. Don't touch the part with your fingers. In your case with points once they have burnt I doubt anything is going to make them like new.
Are the points making solid contact ? If they are making light contact it will cause them to arch (make soot)and then make poor contact. Some of these rocker switches the button bottoms out leaving the points with very little contact pressure. Maybe you can add some thin noncondutive material behind the button or behind the points to force a more solid contact between the points.

big2bird said:

00fxd said:

DWncchs, how do you apply the 5717s in an electrical application? I see that it's an auto body product.

Click to expand...

Any modern contact cleaner will do. Get the cheapest shit. It's all the same stuff.

Click to expand...

You could be right I have been using the 5717 for ever because it worked for me. Recently I threw away the old brown glass quart bottle that no longer had a label. I still have some small amounts in different application containers and will have to spring for another bottle or "try" some of the contact cleaners. I was told to use this a long time ago by a gauge rebuilder. Supposedly the 5717 has several acids and other chemicals in it that allows it to clean and then leave a coating that doesn't tarnish afterwards. Mostly what I use it on is connector contacts like the 3 wire connector in the front turn signals. I have a short container that I submerge the entire connector in.(if i'm allowed i eliminate the connector)

found these in my closet



or if you like heels

Those would solve my troubles I suppose. but I prefer a more conventional repair. Thanx anyway
Frank

How about replacing the switches with something from a local electronics supplier (sort of like Gene's suggestion)? I am sure that you could get some momentary rocker switches and a piece of plastic to mount them on and make up your own replacement set, 3 or 4 switches should cover it.

Or - cannibalize a switch from another vehicle and cobble up a mount for it. Is the switch mounted on the seat side? Cosmetics may not be a major issue if down and out of sight...

The car is a low mile cream puff, I don't really want to bastardise it - this doesn't seem to be a common problem, '95 Mustang gt. When I take the switch apart and repair it it's mint inside again. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I'll just take it apart and fix it up again. The big pain is sometimes when I have to take the seat out it's either all the way to the front or rear. Then I can't get to the the opposite mount bolts. Blah. I'll sort it out. Thanks all

00fxd said:

The car is a low mile cream puff, I don't really want to bastardise it - this doesn't seem to be a common problem, '95 Mustang gt. When I take the switch apart and repair it it's mint inside again. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I'll just take it apart and fix it up again. The big pain is sometimes when I have to take the seat out it's either all the way to the front or rear. Then I can't get to the the opposite mount bolts. Blah. I'll sort it out. Thanks all

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IF it's not a common problem, find out for sure on the Ford GT forums, then you can put out a call for the part from like up the road here there is a FORD dedicated junkyard, Rusty Acres.....anything Ford ever made from T up they got, it's a HUGE operation, I got the Escort engine there....

904 786-1777

pretty straight up operation, been there forever...like 40 years...


:drink: