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  #451  
Old 11-13-2018, 02:30 AM
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difference between Camaro and Corvette spec. The Camaro have a larger flange and larger studs along with no ABS sensor in the hub. Otherwise, they're identical in depth and rear bolt pattern.

more work done
time to set the uppers


and a slight issue, the upper arms are too far inboard (1/2" per side)
no big deal... in other news, Z06 wheels







no optical illusion.... fronts need about 1" more offset, rear need another 1 1/2" width.edited
In other news the rotors don't really clear 19s


with that said, all I have to do is remove the vibration dampers - put there so people don't whine about rattly brakes (and you won't hear over the 427)... I dunno, I hate to say I may need wider front flares but I may need wider front flares....edited
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  #452  
Old 11-13-2018, 02:37 AM
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Moving along nicely! I like those wheels too... I assume youre using the stock C5 track width? Wider=cooler
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  #453  
Old 11-13-2018, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vette427sbc View Post
Moving along nicely! I like those wheels too... I assume youre using the stock C5 track width? Wider=cooler
I like the wheels, but .... I'm not sure I want to re-flare ..... although, adding another inch to the front width .... yeah, conflicted.
Those wheels a seller brought by my house to see if they fit - the biggest issue right now (still thinking this through) is the rears aren't wide enough.

yep, stock C5 track width. I honestly cannot wait to see whether my thought - that combining the C5/6 front suspension with the 2010-2016 Camaro rear would be a marriage made in heaven or like my first wife - looked great in pictures but wasn't stable.
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  #454  
Old 11-14-2018, 05:10 AM
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dagnabit.... but first, success

my coilovers


they're less expensive then the QA1s, and are a better product.... good to know, right? and yes, made in USA

they'll go somewhere around there


this tool.... I love it but


all this work you see, I get to do it again



so here's the deal - I have the shop drawings for the C5 Corvette.edited I've been using them and following them faithfully.edited Tonight I started on the move the upper arms out project and thought "that doesn't look right" then "don't argue with your tape measure".... turns out I should have argued with my memory.

GM gives you the dimensions to the bolt head.edited The first clue was my Joes alignment level - suddenly the top of the tire was pointing out, I'm setting it up as neutral.edited Then I had to adjust the toe wayyyyyy out.edited Whisky Tango Foxtrot, I queried.editededited

the dimension GM gives across the car from bolt to center to bolt is 19 11/16.edited That equals 39 3/8 from bolt head to bolt head.... so where did I screw up?edited I was measuring from flat to flat...edited that is almost exactly 1" from the bolt head..... so it's out 2".... I should have remembered that because in my research I had to find out the dimension of a bolt head (they're 1/2" tall) and weirdly, it doesn't matter the size of the suspension bolt - they're all 1/2" tall (top to flange)

So later this week I'll make it 2" narrower then reset the toe where it belongs.... ugh.edited All is normal with the world because I'm usually the warning
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  #455  
Old Yesterday, 05:36 AM
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here we go again


chop chop


now floppy again


lining up the marks


tack back together


dead on



I've set the alignment cams to zero degrees.edited I still need to double check the altitude of the front and rear of the upper arm, but once that's done I'll burn it in for real (again again) then start making it look I know what I'm doing
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  #456  
Old Today, 05:31 AM
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evaporust says 12 hours, 70 degrees.... we will see - this corvette jack was submerged in the back of my Corvette when I got it.editededited

it's submerged with my lathe center - I figure that's a fair test....


onward... yeah, looks the same


I learned a long time ago, you cannot have too many plumb bobs


and now...edited




looks the same except now it's where it's going to liveedited



hopefully Sunday I'll get this all in place


and make the mounts for this

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  #457  
Old Today, 01:54 PM
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I admire your ambition. The easiest way (and cheapest) to increase the front flares for you might be to split at the bonding strip and lay in a 1” strip of suitable material. If you wanted you could have a open gap at the door.

No, I haven’t tried it, but that’s the plan for my bolt on l88 flares (1” strip under edge). Then foam and fiberglass.
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  #458  
Old Today, 04:29 PM
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Here's a time and labor intensive solution for fender flares. I completely revised the suspension on my old NASA-spec Ford Focus and ended up with a 4 inch wider track width. I built "poster board" flares, covered them with fiberglass, sanded them smooth, pulled molds off the "bucks", and then pulled flares from the molds.

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Last edited by mfain; Today at 05:25 PM..
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  #459  
Old Today, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtj View Post
I admire your ambition. The easiest way (and cheapest) to increase the front flares for you might be to split at the bonding strip and lay in a 1” strip of suitable material. If you wanted you could have a open gap at the door.

No, I haven’t tried it, but that’s the plan for my bolt on l88 flares (1” strip under edge). Then foam and fiberglass.
I'm leaning more and more towards just getting wheels that fit. While it would be nice to have an off-the-shelf solution for when these wheels go out of style and are irreplaceable; I knew I was going to need at least 2 custom wheels anyway (for the front). That said, because of where the hub is, I may end up doing a lot more flare work anyway.

as for moving them out. 1/4" plastic - glue strips then shape.... that said, it is really hard to extend a curve because you usually end up with a flat spot in the transition that looks odd.
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  #460  
Old Today, 07:06 PM
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seems like custom wheels are appropriate for this build!
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