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  #11  
Old 08-28-2009, 09:06 PM
jsssgrl1209 jsssgrl1209 is offline
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Well that was my possible reason #3..... your bracket had to move alot to cause that.

How much would you think it was moving?

Is your setup all fixed and the project finished? Your pics really helped this thread alot.
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  #12  
Old 08-29-2009, 05:17 AM
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vette427sbc vette427sbc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsssgrl1209 View Post
Well that was my possible reason #3..... your bracket had to move alot to cause that.

How much would you think it was moving?

Is your setup all fixed and the project finished? Your pics really helped this thread alot.
It moved a little, but that little bit is too much for something like that IMO. Like you said, with all the force that is put on that bracket and the constant movement from use, the metal will fatigue too easily.

Unfortunately, I am still running my old Z-bar. I just never found the time to go back and re-design that bracket.
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  #13  
Old 08-29-2009, 09:48 PM
jsssgrl1209 jsssgrl1209 is offline
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Default My attempts at a bracket

Years ago I attemepted to make a bracket to use a hydraulic clutch in an old camaro I had.

All I will say is My Bracket FAILED. I was young and didnt quite have the fabrication skills I have now, so it was a good learning experience.
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  #14  
Old 07-05-2016, 10:14 PM
Richard D Richard D is offline
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I know this is an old thread, but it was so well written I was wondering if you ever worked the bugs out.
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  #15  
Old 07-07-2016, 03:59 AM
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SuperBuickGuy SuperBuickGuy is offline
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one of the biggest mistake people make with hydraulic slave cylinders is locating the push rod in the same place as the push rod of the Z-bar. The problem is you were bottoming the master to get it to disengage. You need to relocated your slave push rod 4/5 of the distance from the centerline... something like 1 1/2" towards the center of the motor.

A second problem is you really have to be careful with the angle on the slave - anything too much and it will side-load that steel rod in the aluminum container (with predictable results)

a third problem, and one that might keep you in the Z-bar business is that hydraulic clutches are linear in pressure - meaning, there isn't that spot you have on a z-bar where you are just about ready to disengage the clutch, most people tend to let the clutch slip too much if they go hydro because where that 'sweet spot' is on a hydraulic clutch allows the clutch to slip..... I'd stay with the z-bar and swap in a few self-lubricating heim joints...

setting up a hydraulic clutch is an unmitigated bitch ('scuse my english)... on my C3, it took 4 set ups before I got it to almost as good as a z-bar.... and the guy who bought it from me burned the new clutch out and ate a few synchros because he can't shift.... he was told, oh well.
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  #16  
Old 07-07-2016, 02:37 PM
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vette427sbc vette427sbc is offline
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I did get it sorted out... sort of...
I ended up with a T56 and a hydraulic throwout bearing actuated by the master cylinder setup that I used in the original post. It worked beautifully and reliably. The master was never overthrown and gave (car is apart now) me many miles of trouble-free hard driving
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  #17  
Old 07-11-2016, 12:24 AM
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69427 69427 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vette427sbc View Post
I did get it sorted out... sort of...
I ended up with a T56 and a hydraulic throwout bearing actuated by the master cylinder setup that I used in the original post. It worked beautifully and reliably. The master was never overthrown and gave (car is apart now) me many miles of trouble-free hard driving
Just curious, any updates on the rear suspension?
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