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  #11  
Old 06-19-2016, 10:38 AM
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MYBAD79 MYBAD79 is offline
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I bought a manual and a power rack from Rockauto, rebuilt .... I guess it doesn't matter where you buy, these rebuilds are sort of a hit or miss ... Same with rebuilt calippers .... It's not like Rockauto rebuilds these , I'm guessing these are all rebuild in low cost countries .... Maybe the 10 year old that rebuilt mine had a bad day ....
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  #12  
Old 06-20-2016, 06:09 PM
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A couple of questions after reading up on the subject :
- I see that the colums sticks out fairly long and so the angles to get to the rack maybe pretty sharp, causing issues. Don't want to cut the motor support and don't want to shorten the column either, what are the options ?

- any issues using different length arms when the rack is offset ?
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette View Post
A couple of questions after reading up on the subject :
- I see that the colums sticks out fairly long and so the angles to get to the rack maybe pretty sharp, causing issues. Don't want to cut the motor support and don't want to shorten the column either, what are the options ?

- any issues using different length arms when the rack is offset ?
No issues with the arms, the center link takes care of that - you can weld the center so that the arms (tie rods) are the same length.
For the input shaft: I didn't like the idea of having three U-joints so I cut the frame horn, after welding the half pipe in there it's stronger than it ever was so no worries here ... I don't see any other options, cut the mount, collaps the column and it's all good .... I still have to check what's wrong with my setup and why there's slop again. I don't want to blame the rack until I inspected everything else .... Although at this point I believe it is the rack ...
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette View Post
A couple of questions after reading up on the subject :
- I see that the colums sticks out fairly long and so the angles to get to the rack maybe pretty sharp, causing issues. Don't want to cut the motor support and don't want to shorten the column either, what are the options ?

- any issues using different length arms when the rack is offset ?
No issues with the arms, the center link takes care of that - you can weld the center so that the arms (tie rods) are the same length.
For the input shaft: I didn't like the idea of having three U-joints so I cut the frame horn, after welding the half pipe in there it's stronger than it ever was so no worries here ... I don't see any other options, cut the mount, collaps the column and it's all good .... I still have to check what's wrong with my setup and why there's slop again. I don't want to blame the rack until I inspected everything else .... Although at this point I believe it is the rack ...




Hey man, dunno if you aware, but those racks have an adjustment screw to push the rack into the pinion just a bit, that is the 'slop' adjustment, take a good look around the pinion input position and spot that bolt.....it's not much of an adjustment, turns wise, so be careful......
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:27 PM
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Hey man, dunno if you aware, but those racks have an adjustment screw to push the rack into the pinion just a bit, that is the 'slop' adjustment, take a good look around the pinion input position and spot that bolt.....it's not much of an adjustment, turns wise, so be careful......
Damn I had no idea ... That would be a easy fix .... Thanks !!!
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  #16  
Old 06-22-2016, 04:58 PM
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Hey man, dunno if you aware, but those racks have an adjustment screw to push the rack into the pinion just a bit, that is the 'slop' adjustment, take a good look around the pinion input position and spot that bolt.....it's not much of an adjustment, turns wise, so be careful......
Damn I had no idea ... That would be a easy fix .... Thanks !!!
OH, forgot to mention, the center/straight ahead position gets the most wear, obviously, so when adjusting, make sure the tires are in the air, and you don't have any binding on the rack assy from full R to full L.....but that much should be apparent anyway.....it's the RACK version of the adjustment on our old stock steering boxes or the Jeep box fir that matter....

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Old 06-23-2016, 12:54 AM
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Found a photo .... Is that the bolt on the bottom?

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  #18  
Old 06-23-2016, 01:11 PM
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YUP, loosen the obvious locking ring/nut and play with the center bolt a nudge at a time.....remember to go from side to side and make damn sure there is no binding.....
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:26 PM
Grampy Grampy is offline
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Yves,

Each of us makes some improvements with each generation of this project.

Using a double u-joint which can tolerate greater angular offset to connect the steering column to the intermediate shaft should allow you keep the column at stock length. The intermediate shaft will have to be stabilized with a bearing. They make oversize rod ends for this purpose.

In adapting the GM R&P to C3/C2 chassis the R&P housing mounts off center so the steering input shaft can connect. The center takeoff design of the R&P allows you the freedom to make an asymmetric center link so the tie rods can be the same length right and left. This also allows you the make the center link so that the inherent bump steer is minimized.

There are other project pictures in my earlier R&P posts.

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  #20  
Old 06-25-2016, 12:36 PM
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can you give me the link ? And maybe a parts list ?

If my eyes are not deceiving me it looks as if the link is awfully close to the headers, almost touching.

Can I assume that the R&P makes the car steer like a modern car ? I'm used to European cars steering systems and never seem to get used to the vettes steering box.
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