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  #11  
Old 01-28-2017, 12:54 AM
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Yes gents ! It is pretty easy to adjust the angle with the diff in original location. But when you remove the bushings in the cross member it will be now sitting way higher, as the nose of the pinion in relation to the frame.

Then either to have a Z angles configuration you may have to cut/raise the body, because the pinion is 3 inch or more higher the front diff housing is touching the body but with enough room on top
Or a W configuration who brings the pinion not much higher than factory, and room for the housing. But not too sure about the angles at high revs.
It is still holidays season here, so quite slow to find answers from the pros!

Thanks again.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2017, 02:00 PM
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Raising the body isn't the way to go, in my opinion. If the trailing arm pivots are stock or not welded shut and you don't want to cut the tunnel, make several square spacers out of 1/4 in alum plate and insert between cross member and diff. Pretty easy, square plate with 4 holes.

I looked at you pic again and it looks like the sombreros were raised. I don't think solid pucks alone would raise the diff much more than 1/2 at most. At least that's what I thought when I made mine.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2017, 12:56 AM
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Yes,you are right RTJ. It is no lifted by a lot, it is just the case of aligning the diff to the box again . Original W angle configuration = plenty of room.
Going for a Z configuration = Just enough OR not, but needs a bit of grinding or more.

I swapped my "race body" with the body I bought and who is gutted inside: no floor and plenty of openings on the rear section, handy to have a look from the inside.

It shows that if I use an original diameter D/shaft Dia 2 inch, the hand brake protrusion in the tunnel is not a problem BUT if would like to use my bigger D/shaft 2.99 inch with the 1350 Ujoints , I need to cut to make room.

But again, I will check the coming week if can use the W configuration.
I will post more pictures, now that I know what to do
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2017, 09:40 AM
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RTJ, you got me worried with your measurements!

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This is on my original chassis, and I check on the modified one. Same same but with no rubber.
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Old 01-30-2017, 11:34 AM
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Should be right now. I set my angles opposite at 1.5 diff and box, Dshaft at 1/4 up. This with two 1350 and a diameter of 2.90 inches .
I should show you what I did with my fuel tank.
I wanted to baffle it, not wanting the fuel sloshing around.I could have a proper fuel cell, but pricey, and as I cannot move the fuel tank from its original location , I thought, why not to modify the original one by filling it with blocks of foam. And adding a deep sump for the electric fuel pump.
Pictures to follow.
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  #16  
Old 02-04-2017, 12:16 PM
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I finally received the fuel sender and screws to finish the fuel tank. I closed the suction side using my TIG, cannot do it with solder!
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Cannot use a brand new clamp ring , the sender was still moving around, end up using the original one ![Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...]

Closing the foam's opening.
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followed by the modified filler neck, the split tube will hold the foam block and the little holes will be used to check the fuel quantity left in the tank more accurately than the fuel gauge.
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Next I'll install the bracket for the electric fuel and route the brake lines.
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2017, 12:17 PM
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folded a cradle for the fuel pump an did the soft fuel lines and bent a rigid one to replace the original who goes to the motor.

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  #18  
Old 02-13-2017, 08:01 PM
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not in a million years would I get into a race car without a (real) fuel cell!
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  #19  
Old 02-14-2017, 12:09 PM
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I know I know, but to follow the rules, I can have a safety fuel cell. But I must keep the original fuel tank in the factory location, then fit the fuel cell underneath, safer? Yes and no. But I understand your view.
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  #20  
Old 02-14-2017, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZgreen69 View Post
I know I know, but to follow the rules, I can have a safety fuel cell. But I must keep the original fuel tank in the factory location, then fit the fuel cell underneath, safer? Yes and no. But I understand your view.

so your telling me all those vintage racers down under have two fuel tanks?
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