Fender flares install - photos

MYBAD79

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These are 2" flares without the mudflaps that I bought from Vanacor. I thought I posted this info before but couldn't find it when I was looking for it tonight... so here we go:

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.narrower at the bottom but wider at the top.... shows more tire than the stock fender but covers it at the top. very cool :cool:

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This is a 295-50-15 tire on the stock aluminum rim with a 2" spacer and the stock fender:
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I cut a section from the new quarter to make it fit like the L88 flares - there was no reason to cut out the stock quarter. While the flare was clamped into place I drilled holes for self tapping screws (needed during final install)
.

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after dry fitting I sanded the mating surfaces with 60 grit

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covered both pieces with Evercoat SMC adhesive:
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Glued in place and bolted to the stock quarter with above mentioned self tapping screws:

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Fiberglass putty/body filler:
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more filler:
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First coat of primer. Note the high spots around the fender radius
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Sanded the high spots down:
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Last coat of primer after wetsanding. The panel is still wet, looks like clearcoat...

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Two years later with fresh paint:

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:thumbs::trumpet::thumbs::trumpet::bump:
 
Looks good; thanks for posting. Your pictures answers my question of blending the bumpers.
 
Karsten, you have had NO troubles with that stock rim and that 2" offset to the outside??? I very amazed, as with that wheel centerline moved outward like that you putting one hell of a torsion/twist load on that bearing...NO???

so the axel bearings would be under stresses similar to a circle all the time....

I was very careful about keep same wheel centerline when changing to the wider rims....yet you seem to be getting away with it....what am I missing???


:crap:
 
....what am I missing???

:crap:


You're correct, the wheel centerline moved outward 2" and it increases the load on the bearing.
The stock wheel and bearing setup is good for more than 100K miles, it's lasting a good time even under racing/autoX conditions when people beat the snot out of these cars.
Since I am not racing the car I would think that with the increased bearing load I'm still getting 50K miles or more out of these spindles/bearings that I just rebuilt.... heck, if I'm getting 30K miles out of these bearings it'll be years before I have to rebuild them again...

The living proof is Gkull: he's using 3" (or 2.5") spacers with 11X17 wheels and he abuses the car quiet a bit...
 
....what am I missing???

:crap:


You're correct, the wheel centerline moved outward 2" and it increases the load on the bearing.
The stock wheel and bearing setup is good for more than 100K miles, it's lasting a good time even under racing/autoX conditions when people beat the snot out of these cars.
Since I am not racing the car I would think that with the increased bearing load I'm still getting 50K miles or more out of these spindles/bearings that I just rebuilt.... heck, if I'm getting 30K miles out of these bearings it'll be years before I have to rebuild them again...

The living proof is Gkull: he's using 3" (or 2.5") spacers with 11X17 wheels and he abuses the car quiet a bit...

Well, yeh, but I looking at the centerline position, and preferring it be close to stock... if no sway bar I know of, and a moved ebrake bracket on a offset arm, no reason a 11+ wide wheel would not fit easy, really....I think there is like 1"+ from the rear frame rail to the inside of my rim, and I have 9.5" rims and 275 tires on the stock centerline.....

:nuts:
 
....what am I missing???

:crap:


You're correct, the wheel centerline moved outward 2" and it increases the load on the bearing.
The stock wheel and bearing setup is good for more than 100K miles, it's lasting a good time even under racing/autoX conditions when people beat the snot out of these cars.
Since I am not racing the car I would think that with the increased bearing load I'm still getting 50K miles or more out of these spindles/bearings that I just rebuilt.... heck, if I'm getting 30K miles out of these bearings it'll be years before I have to rebuild them again...

The living proof is Gkull: he's using 3" (or 2.5") spacers with 11X17 wheels and he abuses the car quiet a bit...

Well, yeh, but I looking at the centerline position, and preferring it be close to stock... if no sway bar I know of, and a moved ebrake bracket on a offset arm, no reason a 11+ wide wheel would not fit easy, really....I think there is like 1"+ from the rear frame rail to the inside of my rim, and I have 9.5" rims and 275 tires on the stock centerline.....

:nuts:

This is a 10" wheel 4" BS and a 13" overall width under stock fenders

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How thick are those Vanacor flares? I've got some (unknown mfg) and they are about 1/16 inch thick.
 
Mold release stuff is integrated.... That's what many say to describe it...... The adhesive must be compatible, otherwise it will not stick or separate later.....

Haven't clicked BBshark's link yet, I think GM used this stuff since '73 ......
 
How thick are those Vanacor flares? I've got some (unknown mfg) and they are about 1/16 inch thick.

That's thin....... I think the Vanacors flares are like 1/8" .....

You know..... As much as I bitch about shit that is poor quality and crap that doesn't fit........ Vanacor's fiberglass parts fit pretty darn good.... Lol
 
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