PC and hinging parts

I was in the same position a while ago and I couldn't think of a way to pc those parts. So, I chromed the latching mechanisms and got rid of the hinge and installed a gas strut assembly :p

I know I was contemplating diassembling the hinge to pc it. I think Kev pc'd his hinge. Sorry I can't be more help...
 
I was hoping to just pc the part, with the pivot more or less taped in, and break the restrictive coating by forcing it to hinge. PC is though but also brittle. I wil just give it a try, got some good paint stripper that will also strip pc
 
PC usually does not fill gaps very well and will not flow into gaps when heat cured. Your hinges should be OK.
 
Your hinges and hood support will be fine,when i PC mine i wired them in there open position and pc them so that there would be no bare spots,the only bare spots are when the hinges and prop rod are in the closed position and you cannot see them anyway because the hood is closed, and the pc will not prevent them from moving you do not put enough on the part to fill the gap,and if you do you will have more problems than the hinges not working.
 
Cool, will try this week and see where this ends. Did you tape off any of the pivoting?

BTW: Do any of you guy's pre heat the object and then PC?
 
BTW: Do any of you guy's pre heat the object and then PC?

I always heat parts as part of the cleaning process but generally wasn't pre-heating prior to powder coating. For what it's worth though, I've had some good results with the last couple of things I've pc'd by heating them, but only enough for the powder to just start to melt on contact with the part - certainly not hot enough to consider it "hot flocking". I still have the earth lead on the job and use the pc gun the way it's meant to but it just seems to have turned out a little better when the part's been warm.

Practice on something else first, something with a similar thickness etc. Also experiment with the 3 tubes and diffuser fitted and without them all fitted. Personally, I think I get a better result without the tubes and diffuser.

Also, did you bung the end of the fluidizing tube?
IMGP1689.jpg

Jamming a silicone bung into the bottom of the air tube and drilling 4 x 1/16" holes just above the end of the bung makes for better fluidizing of the powder once you pull the trigger...
 
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No I didn't, thangs for passing the bung :bounce:

I use the 3 tubes to keep the metal rod centered, it is pointing upwards when I remove the tubes.

First results
ringen%20en%20shaft%20poeder.jpg

My lower A-arm is slightly to big for my oven, I use a sheet of reinforced Teflon to extend it a little.

Ovenext.jpg
 
Cool, will try this week and see where this ends. Did you tape off any of the pivoting?

BTW: Do any of you guy's pre heat the object and then PC?

No i did not tape any thing off when i did it, your parts will still move just fine.

You must pre heat the part to out gas the metal,if you skip this step you will get a lot of tiny bubbles in the pc.

Wayne since you have pc every thing else,i am surprised you did not pc these parts
 
Cool, will try this week and see where this ends. Did you tape off any of the pivoting?

BTW: Do any of you guy's pre heat the object and then PC?

No i did not tape any thing off when i did it, your parts will still move just fine.

You must pre heat the part to out gas the metal,if you skip this step you will get a lot of tiny bubbles in the pc.

Wayne since you have pc every thing else,i am surprised you did not pc these parts
I almost did pc them until I bumped the hood support one day and I thought the damn thing was going to come down on me - I decided there and then that I wanted to piss it off and get a gas strut. I got the latching mechanisms chromed as I needed some bling in the engine bay :D

Your parts look like they turned out ok Cas. How'd the teflon "extension" go? Did the A arm pc ok?
 
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