Engine run-in stand

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The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
2,972
Location
Clinging to my guns and religion in KCMO.
I'm starting construction on another run-in stand this week. I built one several years ago to break in the engines that are currently in the '84 and '69, but I sold it when I moved to Florida a couple years ago (thinking I didn't have room and wouldn't need it anyway). Well, I'm building another engine for the '69, and I want to run it a while before I drop it in the car. The guy I sold my previous stand to likes it too much and won't sell it back to me, so I get to do the fabrication again.
So, while I'm building this, I was just curious about looking at other people's run-in stands in case there's some ideas I'd like to steal (or borrow at the least).
Anybody got anything I can look at?

thanks,
Mike
 
I'm starting construction on another run-in stand this week. I built one several years ago to break in the engines that are currently in the '84 and '69, but I sold it when I moved to Florida a couple years ago (thinking I didn't have room and wouldn't need it anyway). Well, I'm building another engine for the '69, and I want to run it a while before I drop it in the car. The guy I sold my previous stand to likes it too much and won't sell it back to me, so I get to do the fabrication again.
So, while I'm building this, I was just curious about looking at other people's run-in stands in case there's some ideas I'd like to steal (or borrow at the least).
Anybody got anything I can look at?

thanks,
Mike

Me too. I would like to someday build one.

Danny
 
I would rather see something on that stand, that is able to load the engine. I tried to figure it out, but didn't succeed.

The problem with loading the engine is that you've changed the function from a "run-in" stand, to a "semi-dyno" apparatus. If you load the engine you now have to contend with torque forces that will either twist the crap out of the stand (unless it's stinking big and heavy, and preferably anchored down), or worst case, the whole thing flops itself over and destroys everything in the vacinity (yes, I know the torque forces should be equal and in opposite directions so it shouldn't flop over, but I'm not going to stand next to it while it's under load).
 
A local guy here builds and sells engines and demos them running at the weekly Tower Shops car show.
Didn't pay much attention, but he built his on a small single axle utility trailer like you might find at Harbor Freight. Pretty simple design.
He put short sides on the front and uses that to store/sell engine parts.
 
I got the basic framework welded up, and until I have an engine to drop down onto it to position the motormount points, I'm going to start on the instrument cluster. I'm looking at just getting some Summit brand gauges, unless someone has a recommendation for other gauge vendors.

Any suggestions?
 
The forces...... aren't than big!

If your engine have some 70 Kg/m of torque (is a lot) the load applyed will be 70 kilos with a lever of 1 meter (of course)...... assuming the distance between the axis of the crank and the motor mount will be in the range of 0.3 metrs...... the load will be in the range of 210 kilos.

Not that much!!!!!!!!!!

More than the load is important the the time to reach that load!
The reason why dynos are using a water brake is it's progressivity on the load!
Even if the engine is coasting down (no torque generated) the energy stored in the rotating assembly will be enough to destroy allmost anything if you will try to stop it in an instant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So be carefull placing a load!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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