V-clamp ???

MYBAD79 said:
I think I'm going to order two of these to attach mufflers to the exhaust pipe. Looks like a very clean and simple solution:
http://www.racepartsolutions.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RPS-V-assembly&cat=106

ideas/input/thoughts/opinions/experience .... what does the forum think ???
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So long as the flanges are welded on correctly. If one of the flanges is a bit off, it won't seal properly.

Do you know what brand clamps they are? We were using Aeroquip for years at work but they've been withdrawn now as they were cracking where the brackets that hold the T-bar end of the bolt and the sleeve, were riveted. That would only give you a noisy exhaust, but seriously uncool in an aeroplane :gurney:
 
I would clamp the flange together and tack weld it to both ends of the pipe, then remove the muffler and pipe and weld all the way around. I am concerned about heat distorting the mating surfaces...maybe it must remained clamped tight when welding...
$50 each is a little steep for the clamps, the mufflers I'm looking at are only $140 for the pair (stainless Magnaflow 5"X8" or 7" round) :toothbrush:

If they don't distort and if this actually works as advertized it would be a quick and easy job to swap mufflers or swap converter vs. straight pipe...
 
I have used those, they are simply amazing/ IMO the best way to do it. The heat won't distort the surfaces, they are pretty thick. They're also being used in turbocharger applications, right after the turbine (hookup for downpipe) and if it gets got somewhere, it's right there. Are you going with the stainless v bands?

Check out JoBys thread in projects, I think he has some on his turbo piping also.
 
The only heat related problem I've seen with V bands is that they can get stuck in place if they've been there for a while and they can be real difficult to remove. I'm talking jet engine bleed air temps though...

Additional useless information:
If you want to be super keen, the super duper correct way to fit the clamps is once the nut reaches torque, lightly tap all around the clamp with a soft blow hammer, all the while still torquing the nut. When the torque finally repeats (the torque wrench clicks in the same spot several times), that means the V band is seated correctly all the way around :confused2:
 
don't you think a good wad of copper grease will help keep it from getting seized???
 
That horrible black shit is Fel-Pro C-25. Nastiest stuff I've ever seen. And when you start talking of temps like jet engine air, that copper stuff runs like water.

Ah, the old tap-n-torque.. Works great as long as the clamp is good. I just hate it when you just about get the final torque and the threads in the nut let go. And then it won't come off either.. Usually happens when you're way out on the flight line, with no air or nitrogen to use a cutoff wheel.:confused2:
 
TimAT said:
That horrible black shit is Fel-Pro C-25. Nastiest stuff I've ever seen. And when you start talking of temps like jet engine air, that copper stuff runs like water...
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That's it, Fel-Pro! Evil, horrible stuff. Didn't matter how careful you were with it, you'd still end up with the shit all over you - a speck on your elbow, a dollop on your forehead etc. You'd get home from work, get changed and there's MORE of it, some in the middle of your back, bottom of your feet, behind your knee! Weird stuff, I think it multiplied once it came in contact with human flesh!

TimAT said:
Ah, the old tap-n-torque.. Works great as long as the clamp is good. I just hate it when you just about get the final torque and the threads in the nut let go. And then it won't come off either.. Usually happens when you're way out on the flight line, with no air or nitrogen to use a cutoff wheel.:confused2:
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Too funny Tim and too TRUE! I've also seen them where guys inadvertantly get the sleeve around the wrong way, run the nut down then suddenly the socket won't bite any more and the clamp's still way loose. Realise what they've done but because the socket won't bite, can't get it undone again :banghead:
 
I think this is roughly what these flanges look like, I've read that there's a spigot fit on the ID as well. These things are sweet, wish they were more reasonably priced.

21486b7727b3920.jpg
 
MYBAD79 said:
I think this is roughly what these flanges look like, I've read that there's a spigot fit on the ID as well. These things are sweet, wish they were more reasonably priced.

21486b7727b3920.jpg
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They can look like that and I've seen some that are just mating surfaces - the V band will locate them correctly.

Having a locating spigot, if the flanges are to be welded onto a pipe, could make it a complete arse to line up if you got one of the flanges slightly in the wrong spot. Components on an aircraft/engine accessory gearbox have locating spigots or dowel pins but the ones I've seen can't ever be moved. If the flanges have spigots, I guess you just have to spot on positioning them before welding...
 
saudivette said:
If the flanges have spigots, I guess you just have to spot on positioning them before welding...
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That was the plan to begin with, to spot weld both sides of the flange with the V-band holding the flange together...

If I use these, I will need two pairs male and female and another two males OR females so that I can use the additional flange halves on the stock mufflers.... I am not sure if I ever want to put the stock mufflers back on and I am not sure if it's worth $150 .... the mufflers and tips are expensive enough :footmouth:
 
MYBAD79 said:
...If I use these, I will need two pairs male and female and another two males OR females so that I can use the additional flange halves on the stock mufflers.... I am not sure if I ever want to put the stock mufflers back on and I am not sure if it's worth $150 .... the mufflers and tips are expensive enough :footmouth:
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But if you don't plan to put the stock mufflers back on, do you really need the quick remove option that the V band clamps will give you?

I couldn't help you with the flanges but if you can give me a size (or dash number) then I might be able to get some clamps to you...
 
Thanks for the offer but I think I decided to simply weld the new mufflers to the existing pipe. You're right that most likely I'll never put the stockers back on anyways... look at that cutaway photo that I posted, I better sell the darn things instead of having them sit on my shelf for years.... getting ready to place the order for two Magnaflow 5" diameter stainless bullet mufflers, 2.5" in/out and for the sleeper look I'll just use the stock stainless tips.... btw, this is for the C6...
 
MYBAD79 said:
Thanks for the offer but I think I decided to simply weld the new mufflers to the existing pipe. You're right that most likely I'll never put the stockers back on anyways... look at that cutaway photo that I posted, I better sell the darn things instead of having them sit on my shelf for years.... getting ready to place the order for two Magnaflow 5" diameter stainless bullet mufflers, 2.5" in/out and for the sleeper look I'll just use the stock stainless tips.... btw, this is for the C6...
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Only took you a couple of days before you started taking it apart!

Will you do me a favor and measure the stock C6 muffs when you get them off?
 
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