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  #511  
Old 10-11-2019, 04:10 PM
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Default Ounces here, ounces there.

Swapped out my intake manifold (an antique, but stock appearing Edelbrock C396 model) for a spare one I had gathering dust on the shelf. On this replacement manifold I cut down the plenum divider (for hopefully a couple more upper RPM horses) and cut out the exhaust crossover casting under the manifold to get rid of a few more ounces of material. Had to weld up the crossover ports, but ended up with a little over 3/4 pound off the manifold (up front and up high!).

While bolting everything back on the manifold, for amusement I weighed the stock ignition coil (still working great after fifty years) and an 80's HEI/EST remote coil. The "newer" coil is about 5 ounces lighter, and when coupled to the HEI module hidden under the shielding, should provide a touch more high RPM energy to the plugs. I have to modify/replace the coil bracket, as GM in their infinite wisdom changed the bolt spacing by about a half inch on the bracket.

Not great leaps in weight reduction, but it's progress until I can get working on the aluminum LCA crossmember this winter.
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  #512  
Old 10-13-2019, 09:17 PM
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Is this the kind of coil you are describing?

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  #513  
Old 10-14-2019, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BBShark View Post
Is this the kind of coil you are describing?

Yeah. I've got a assortment of used OEM coils, including those types, that I've accumulated over the years. The "newer" EST coils generally have lower resistance and inductance, which makes it easier to get energy into them at upper RPMs.

I'm putting the distributor and the stock coil back in this week, hoping to get the engine running again after being apart the past while. I've got three new variables (the modified intake plenum, different carb jetting, and a shortened advance curve in the distributor), and I'll add the fourth variable later once I've got the first three items run in and tweaked.
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  #514  
Old 10-15-2019, 10:46 AM
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I'm using the same coil. Is the wiring this easy? I did find that the coil + & - are not accurate.

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  #515  
Old 10-15-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BBShark View Post
I'm using the same coil. Is the wiring this easy? I did find that the coil + & - are not accurate.

The coil wiring is pretty simple. On my coil the two inner connector pins (closest to the laminations) are shorted together, and the two outer pins are also shorted together. The inner red wire is the high current 12v supply to the coil, and the smaller pink wire is the tapoff/feed to the ignition module. The outer two pins are the coil C- leads (one leads to the module switching transistor, and this internal connection is also the flyback voltage that is used in traditional tachometer circuits).

The coil secondary winding connections are at the coil large terminal (obviously), and the other end of the secondary winding is tied internally to the coil C+/12v pin (like most coils traditionally).

That's what I've gleaned looking at some online diagrams and using my ohmmeter.

As I mention before IIRC, I'll have to modify the current bracket or fabricate one to get the coil to position correctly under the ignition shielding (for the stock look).
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  #516  
Old 10-16-2019, 10:15 AM
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Thanks, the Holley diagram was confusing me because there is no + & - side to the coil and I found the terminals tied together as you describe.
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  #517  
Old 10-16-2019, 03:07 PM
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Default A couple more ounces

While searching around for some parts/options, trying to get the engine back to running condition, I used some otherwise non-productive time to shave a couple more ounces off the engine. I'm replacing the stamped steel brackets under the ignition shielding with aluminum pieces. Not much weight available to remove obviously, but the slight reshaping of the bracketry will free up some room under the shielding for the eventual replacement ignition coil, and give a touch more adjustment room for the vacuum advance canister.
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  #518  
Old 10-17-2019, 04:59 PM
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Small but easy... The seat position lever could be reproduced in aluminum with a plastic ball at the end to mimic the factory steel ball.
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  #519  
Old 10-17-2019, 06:39 PM
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Large and not so easy.... getting parts out for my car and was surprised at how heavy the wiper door (5lbs) and lift mechanism (5lbs) is. Maybe you could make a flip up fiberglass replacement for the door or, if you could live without wipers, a fixed door and remove the wipers arms and transmission.
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  #520  
Old 10-17-2019, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by vette427sbc View Post
Small but easy... The seat position lever could be reproduced in aluminum with a plastic ball at the end to mimic the factory steel ball.
I welded up some replacement seat mounts a while back. I got an offer I couldn't refuse on some lightweight '79 seats (Thanks again, Karsten), and made some lightweight non-adjustable mounts, as I just needed to put the seats as far back and low as possible.

I appreciate the suggestion, and please keep them coming.
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