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  #481  
Old 06-17-2019, 03:18 PM
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I think I'll try installing this radiator to see if it will package okay, and if it will keep the engine temps under control at speed. I don't have any track days scheduled yet, so this might be the best time to work on it. I believe new mounts can be fabricated pretty easily to adapt this radiator to the radiator support framework. What I don't know off the top of my head is how I'm going to adapt the differing hose sizes (2" ID on the old stuff, to 1 3/8" ID on the radiator) to fit together. Some aluminum tubing pieces welded together is easy enough, but I'd like something that has some barb type ends so that the hoses won't slip off once everything is up to pressure. If anybody has some ideas/suggestions, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thanks,
Mike

Edit: Did some thinking (should have done that earlier). On my shelf of used parts I have a thermostat housing that uses the same size hose as the radiator (1 3/8"), so I can just use one size hose on the top. The bottom hose will need to be a transition size as the water pump intake (2") is larger than the radiator outlet. I did some math. If I run the whole length of the top hose in 1 3/8", and the majority of the length from the radiator outlet in 1 3/8" hose, making the size transition right near the water pump inlet, I can reduce the hose volume of non-productive water (water that's not picking up heat or dissipating heat) by about .2 gallons, or 1.7 pounds.

If you have a tig welder you can tack mig wire to the alum to provide an ridge to hold the hose on. we did it on my radiator.
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  #482  
Old 06-18-2019, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 69427 View Post
I think I'll try installing this radiator to see if it will package okay, and if it will keep the engine temps under control at speed. I don't have any track days scheduled yet, so this might be the best time to work on it. I believe new mounts can be fabricated pretty easily to adapt this radiator to the radiator support framework. What I don't know off the top of my head is how I'm going to adapt the differing hose sizes (2" ID on the old stuff, to 1 3/8" ID on the radiator) to fit together. Some aluminum tubing pieces welded together is easy enough, but I'd like something that has some barb type ends so that the hoses won't slip off once everything is up to pressure. If anybody has some ideas/suggestions, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thanks,
Mike

Edit: Did some thinking (should have done that earlier). On my shelf of used parts I have a thermostat housing that uses the same size hose as the radiator (1 3/8"), so I can just use one size hose on the top. The bottom hose will need to be a transition size as the water pump intake (2") is larger than the radiator outlet. I did some math. If I run the whole length of the top hose in 1 3/8", and the majority of the length from the radiator outlet in 1 3/8" hose, making the size transition right near the water pump inlet, I can reduce the hose volume of non-productive water (water that's not picking up heat or dissipating heat) by about .2 gallons, or 1.7 pounds.

If you have a tig welder you can tack mig wire to the alum to provide an ridge to hold the hose on. we did it on my radiator.
I like that idea. Thanks man.
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  #483  
Old 06-18-2019, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 69427 View Post
I think I'll try installing this radiator to see if it will package okay, and if it will keep the engine temps under control at speed. I don't have any track days scheduled yet, so this might be the best time to work on it. I believe new mounts can be fabricated pretty easily to adapt this radiator to the radiator support framework. What I don't know off the top of my head is how I'm going to adapt the differing hose sizes (2" ID on the old stuff, to 1 3/8" ID on the radiator) to fit together. Some aluminum tubing pieces welded together is easy enough, but I'd like something that has some barb type ends so that the hoses won't slip off once everything is up to pressure. If anybody has some ideas/suggestions, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thanks,
Mike

Edit: Did some thinking (should have done that earlier). On my shelf of used parts I have a thermostat housing that uses the same size hose as the radiator (1 3/8"), so I can just use one size hose on the top. The bottom hose will need to be a transition size as the water pump intake (2") is larger than the radiator outlet. I did some math. If I run the whole length of the top hose in 1 3/8", and the majority of the length from the radiator outlet in 1 3/8" hose, making the size transition right near the water pump inlet, I can reduce the hose volume of non-productive water (water that's not picking up heat or dissipating heat) by about .2 gallons, or 1.7 pounds.
That is some very outside-the-box thinking for a pretty damn good weight reduction...

I was thinking you might be able to find an exhaust pipe reducer... But something with a smoother transition. Im not sure what the coolant flow is, but going small to big on the suction side might cause cavitation into the pump
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  #484  
Old 06-19-2019, 09:07 PM
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[quote=Kacyc3;132123]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69427 View Post
Some aluminum tubing pieces welded together is easy enough, but I'd like something that has some barb type ends so that the hoses won't slip off once everything is up to pressure. If anybody has some ideas/suggestions, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thanks,
Mike

.
A lot of racers weld alum AN fittings on their rad. If you want light hoses, use nylon overbraid instead of SS overbraid hose.

Dropping the dia. too much will drop flow rate.

I bought a bunch of 16an, and it is light but pricy $$$.

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Vibrant Performance Nylon Braided Flex Hose -20 AN Size $20/ft

On a rad SS might be safer.

Last edited by rtj; 06-19-2019 at 09:15 PM..
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  #485  
Old 06-19-2019, 10:25 PM
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Any joy in using some of this stuff:


Certainly cheaper than the -AN SS.

its over at [Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...]

cheers - Jim
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  #486  
Old 06-19-2019, 11:19 PM
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Jim

I have used it, but the end connections are funky. It uses double hose clamps each end. Maybe weld on an fittings.

Here is SS overbraid.
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Last edited by rtj; 06-19-2019 at 11:22 PM..
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  #487  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:26 AM
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[quote=rtj;132127]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kacyc3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69427 View Post
Some aluminum tubing pieces welded together is easy enough, but I'd like something that has some barb type ends so that the hoses won't slip off once everything is up to pressure. If anybody has some ideas/suggestions, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thanks,
Mike

.
A lot of racers weld alum AN fittings on their rad. If you want light hoses, use nylon overbraid instead of SS overbraid hose.

Dropping the dia. too much will drop flow rate.

I bought a bunch of 16an, and it is light but pricy $$$.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...]


Vibrant Performance Nylon Braided Flex Hose -20 AN Size $20/ft

On a rad SS might be safer.
AN hose won't work for me for two reasons. It doesn't look stock (I like the sleeper look), and AN 20 is smaller than the ports/hoses on the "new" radiator.
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  #488  
Old 06-20-2019, 03:23 PM
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Never seen one of these but maybe this would work (also a reviewer talks about a Gates heat shrink sleeve) :

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  #489  
Old 06-20-2019, 05:49 PM
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69427 69427 is offline
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Never seen one of these but maybe this would work (also a reviewer talks about a Gates heat shrink sleeve) :

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Well, that pretty much looks like the damn size I need to save myself some work, along with Kacyc3's suggestion about welding in a wire to form a ridge/barb on the tube connectors. Thanks, man!
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  #490  
Old 06-21-2019, 11:54 PM
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Default Test fit.

I pulled the current radiator out this afternoon, and did a trial fit with the "new" one. Hot damn, it fit! The inlet tube looks like it will clear the left UCA, and the outlet looks like it will clear the sway bar. I expect to have to use an elbow or two near the ports though to get the hoses pointing in the same basic direction as the factory hoses.

I've got to make some cushion mount modifications to get this radiator to be fastened in by the stock mounts. The top two mounts will be easy, the bottom two will take a bit more cleverness (which I'm frequently in short supply of).

Now, if the radiator will just cooperate and not be too light in the cooling job. I do have about 80% of the grille inlet area currently blocked off to reduce the amount of air going through the radiator and potentially ending up under the car, causing lift. If I encounter a cooling problem on the first track outing, I suppose I can just start opening the grill area to see if that will help. One of the upsides of running just a modest horsepower engine is that the cooling requirements should be easier than what the 600 horsepower crowd has to deal with.

A side issue question in my head is what is the thermal resistance/impact of painting the radiator rear surface black. I want the radiator to be "unnoticeable" if I have the hood up, hence the black paint. The up side is I can leave the front side, that nobody sees, unpainted.
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