doing drivetrain work - lakewood scattershield question

Belgian1979vette

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I've had problems with the clutch disengaging when depressed. Turned out the ball stud needed to move. So I got myself an adjustable one and so far so good. But when at the correct height (taking into account the flywheel thickness and block saver plate vs the 4.75" measurement) the release bearing sits up against the diafragm.

I figured out that the corvette clutch fork hits the lakewood bellhousing because it cannot travel far enough forward. This make the release bearing sit to close. I noticed that on my Original bellhousing the fork sits almost flush with the wall of the bellhousing.

I also checked for different forks, but our cars have a specific one.

What's the solution here. Grind the area on the bellhousing ?
 
Which throw-out bearing do you have? There are three basic throw out bearings. the short, medium and long that I am familiar with. If you go to your local parts house, they almost always give you the short bearing. The stock pivot ball needs the medium spaced bearing. Going with the short bearing requires (approx) 1 1/2" ball. I always purchased the adjustable ball and set it up prior to tranny installation. The long bearing is for chevy trucks. Medium bearing is hard to find these days.
Make sure you have the fork correctly installed with both spring clip prongs behind the ball and holding the fork.
Here is a good article for reference.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm
 
the release bearing is from the Centerforce clutch I have. It's about 1.18".
Don't know it's short or medium, but I assume it's a short one.
I grinded the opening of the bellhousing a bit so that it could travel a bit more and the bearing was in the back. I then set the pivot ball taking into account the thinner flywheel and block saver plate.

I managed to set it finally and the clutch seems to create pressure on the pedal about 1" after being depressed. It looks good, but is there any estimate on how much travel the release bearing should make ? IF I need to make changes now is the time to do it...

Also, on that website you gave me there was something about stamped vs forged steel forks and a mushroom type pivot. I assume we have a stamped fork. The pivot I used was the one from Mcleod. It's longer and allows more travel, but the head doesn't have a flat on the top like the one that was already in there. Does this make a difference ? I'm confused about that.

The springs sit fine behind the head of the stud though.
 
I had the adjustable ball stud, tried several bearings, ended up removing 1/4 inch off the front of the opening.

I thought the problem was the body had shifted on the mounts.

The Lakewood bell housing is a heavy sob, but the c3 floors won't stop much.
 
I hear you.

Had to grind something like 1/4 of the front edge of the opening and then feader it out. Hopefully it engages ok, when I finally start her up.

I should have though about those bellhousings putting the trans backwards more and change the stud to an adjustable one.

Some say that even the engagement in the pilot bushing can be too short.
 
Yes, the engagment can be an issue on the bushing, that is why I went brass. The last few years they started selling a pilot bushing that sticks out of the fly wheel half and inch or so for this very reason. I forget where I saw it, Jegs, Summit, or Speedway motors most likely.
 
I think that speedway has the bronze longer ones.

I left the one I had in there since it exhibited no particular problems. Never had any issues with it. Not much reports on that either when doing a search. Not even Lakewood mentions it.

The block plate is about .123" thick, so that's how much engagement is possible lost.

I can understand that this would cause a real problem with a bearing instead of a bushing because the needles would be carrying the force unevenly.
 
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I cant tell you how many Lakewood bell housings I have seen installed on cars without ALL of the peripheral bolts installed... this is critical for the strength of the housing.

:eek::eek::eek:
 
I cant tell you how many Lakewood bell housings I have seen installed on cars without ALL of the peripheral bolts installed... this is critical for the strength of the housing.

:eek::eek::eek:

That i can understand. All of the bolts are in there.

Anyone know how long a Muncie M22 shaft is from the tip to the face where the trans mounts to the bellhousing ?
 
I cant tell you how many Lakewood bell housings I have seen installed on cars without ALL of the peripheral bolts installed... this is critical for the strength of the housing.

:eek::eek::eek:

That i can understand. All of the bolts are in there.

Anyone know how long a Muncie M22 shaft is from the tip to the face where the trans mounts to the bellhousing ?

Check auto gears website for dimensions.

Edit http://autogear.net/pdf/18-000-xxx.pdf
 
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Other than the original post, I haven't read any of the replies.

In 1974, I bought a Lakewood scattershield and installed it in my 1969 Corvette. There were alignment problems mounting the scatter shield. I think a misalignment problem caused a loading effect on the input shaft to my Muncie contributing to a gear jam and transmission destruction upon shifting. (Problem analysis by Dick Guildstrand).
I bought another Lakewood scattershield in 2006 (?) and was astounded that it still required a detailed mating procedure with dial micrometers using alignment shims and/or adjustable alignment pins. In the 32 intervening years, Lakewood had never updated the precision required for manufacturing this part. Notwithstanding all the tedious alignment procedures required to mate up a Lakewood scatter shield, be it 1974 or today,..if you fit in a stock original GM bellhousing ...it will fit..no alignment procedures with a micrometer required, no shims, no installing adjustable alignment pins.

I'm hoping someday that my project 70 will see about 600 hp. It'll be using a stock GM aluminum bellhousing. I have the Lakewood sitting in the garage. Also, be careful. I've read that repro chevy aluminum bellhousings are being sold. ..Does the part number end in 213? I'll have to go out to my garage and look. I've read that these repro bellhousings doen't have the accurate fit of the NOS/OEM bellhousings..in other words the repro bellhousings require the same micrometer procedure that the Lakewoods require.

A CF poster claimed that the repro "stock" aluminum bell housings bolt holes were 0.030 off dimensionally.
 
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