Looking for advice on my body work

These Halogen shoplights are often on sale at HomeDepot, paid like $15 for mine (dual lights with telescopic stand), hair dryer works about as good.... just be careful not to get it too hot.

Can you get to the underside of the decklid ? Would be perfect if you can hit that with 60 or 80 grit and put some smc filler or mat/resin on there, if you can't get it'll be fine as it is now....

so far it looks great, keep the pics coming :thumbs:
 
MYBAD79 said:
Can you get to the underside of the decklid ? Would be perfect if you can hit that with 60 or 80 grit and put some smc filler or mat/resin on there, if you can't get it'll be fine as it is now....
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I definitely plan on glassing on the underside anywhere there was a hole that penetrated the deck. Since I am feeling a little less unsure of myself, I went ahead and addressed all those areas where mesh had been used rather than matte and it was showing through.. also finished up the gas filler. I definitely went light on the hardener last time, this work was cured in 30 minutes as the can said. I got one batch too hot and it cured in the cup <grrr> Next time, I will go with an SMC or epoxy resin that uses liquid hardener, it's difficult for me to get the correct amount in each batch when I am supposed to use 1.5" of cream hardener to each ounce of resin...

deck_glass.jpg

deck_glass1.jpg


The flares arrived, that scares the heck out of me, but I will forge onward.
 
What flares did you get? Can you post a picture?

I splashed some molds of my front flares with the intention of putting them on the back.
 
bhays said:
I got one batch too hot and it cured in the cup <grrr>
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What happened is called exotherm. Couple of things you can do to prevent that (or at least slow it down):

1) After mixing, pour into something like a plate or pie tin, so that it's spread out over a wider area.

2) Put cup/plate/tin in ice water.

Mike
 
Thanks for the tip on the exotherm, I noticed the cup was really quite hot to the touch..

I got a set of rear flares made by Stan from 2ndgenrestorations (same ones Snowman used). I am currently begging him to make me a front set to match... wish me luck.

newflares.jpg
 
bhays said:
I got a set of rear flares made by Stan from 2ndgenrestorations (same ones Snowman used). I am currently begging him to make me a front set to match... wish me luck.
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Boy, am I glad I bought my flares right when he started making them - I was the first guy to own a full set.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Hey welcome, I remember you from years and years ago on CF. You're Brett Hays right? Remember you having an email addy with hoosiermedia or something to that extent (I have a good memory ;) )? Remember the C5 mirrors and waterfall, arizona speed and marine engine in metallic blue and what not. Figured you'd have the car done by now. Good to hear you haven't given up and still intend to finish the car.

Those cloth repairs need to go, grind out and redo with crushed fibers matte.

As for the deck, didn't ACI sell a deck conversion with the gas door hole in the correct spot? I'm pretty sure they do.

If your engine sat all that time, you might want to check the valve springs, some have been open all this time, the spring pressure may have dropped off significantly.
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I've heard the reproduction decklids while they have the gas cap hole in the right place there is something about the decklid hinge bolting that is different then how the factory did it or something.
 
JeffP1167 said:
Well now I'm inspired to finish my 82 vert project LOL
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It appears you have good advice and doing a good job as you move along. One suggestion on doing the underside and difficult areas to reach. You can layer matt or whatever material you are using on a clear (recommended) sheet of plastic on the bench. After you have your planned layers wet with resin and on top of the plastic sheet, raise the plastic into position and roll the material in. This will get the air bubbles out and make it stick wilth full resin contact of the work surface. If you mix the hardner right, it will start to cure and hold itself after a few minutes. After it had cured sufficiently, you simply peel the plastic off. When I was doing my 69, I found heavier mil clear plastic peeled off best. If you are using several layers of matt or cloth, you can outline them with a sharpie marker to keep visual track of your work. Keep an ample supply of latex gloves for this work and good luck!
 
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