79 C3 major rear deck crack

rudyrodder

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Messages
6
I have a 79 vette it rolled down a hill backwards and hit a tree! Has major cracks in rt rear deck panel. How would you guys reepair this damage? Any and suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! thum_16994d663ce27acac.jpg
 
It looks like you already started! I would get some chopped strand fiberglass mat and some epoxy and get behind the cracks, repairing and filling as much as possible (clean the area first). Spread out the repaired area to add strength to it, then repair the top side the same way. After that it is panel bonding adhesive to refasten the large panels, then more 'glass work.
 
Thanks for the info. I never really work on fiberglass cars before. What my concerns are is lining up the new bumper and quarter panel. If I glass it just sitting there it seems that the rear deck panel may be lower than bumper when it is mounted??

rudyrodder
 
Thanks for the info. I never really work on fiberglass cars before. What my concerns are is lining up the new bumper and quarter panel. If I glass it just sitting there it seems that the rear deck panel may be lower than bumper when it is mounted??

rudyrodder

Use your judgement. The better you realign the pieces and join them now, the less filling and sanding you will have to do later. When laying down the fiberglass mat, try and work out any air bubbles, they will reappear as holes when you sand later. You will probably want to make the repairs in layers, both for strength and to fill in the low areas. If some areas are too thick or too high you can always sand them to where you want them.

I also have a '79 I am doing body work on. Here's a link to my thread http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6439&page=2

My damages are not as serious as yours but the procedures should be the same.

Where are you located?

Denpo's offer of a body panel is quite generous! There's the power of the forum for you! :trumpet:
 
rudyrodder - one other thing! When working with fiberglass - cover up! Mask, gloves, long sleeve shirt & pants, this stuff is highly irritating, especially when you start the sanding process. You will itch like mad if you get it on you.

Another thing - wash your fiberglass repair clothing separately from the rest of your clothes, especially your underwear. Afterwards, run the washing machine (empty) through a cycle to get any residual fiberglass out of it.
 
rudyrodder - one other thing! When working with fiberglass - cover up! Mask, gloves, long sleeve shirt & pants, this stuff is highly irritating, especially when you start the sanding process. You will itch like mad if you get it on you.

Another thing - wash your fiberglass repair clothing separately from the rest of your clothes, especially your underwear. Afterwards, run the washing machine (empty) through a cycle to get any residual fiberglass out of it.

good advise.... it's one of those "don't ask how we know" .... :trumpet:
 
wash your fiberglass repair clothing separately from the rest of your clothes, especially your underwear

Good idea, I'll have to remember that!
 
Hey I kinda know how you feel! Except my car didn't roll down a hill. (you never mentioned how it took off down the hill though?)

Like these guys said you don't want to be rolling around in the fiberglass dust with bare skin, not fun! Clean/bevel your cracks, hit it with some acetone to clean any oils off and have at filling the "v" up with smaller strips on up to wider til you fill the "v" in.

Try and use the woven fabric for backing (stronger). If not prob not a huge deal if you don't, make sure you DO use the regular mat that's stranded for any exterior repairs. After using the poly and the epoxy form of resin, I 100% recommend the epoxy. The stength of it is great and there's hardley any smell to it. West Systems makes some good stuff, should be able to find it at a local marine place. West is easy to use in pump cans, good paper work and you can use it for the rest of your body work too. I used an additive that thickens it and bonded my bonding strip and rear/front fenders on with it too. I've used it on wood too. (no wood on my car though!)

Be careful to line up your fender well with whatever rear bumper you get. Test fit, line-up, test fit, line-up until your satisfied with it.

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Camden, nice pics and nice work too. I am in the market for a sanding block like the one you have in the pics. Where can I find one? Also - I noticed that your door lock cylinders and handles were not removed, was that a problem? I have a door lock cylinder on my drivers door that was epoxied in place by a P.O. that I have been unable to remove.
 
DeeVeeEight Camden, nice pics and nice work too. I am in the market for a sanding block like the one you have in the pics. Where can I find one? Also - I noticed that your door lock cylinders and handles were not removed, was that a problem? I have a door lock cylinder on my drivers door that was epoxied in place by a P.O. that I have been unable to remove.

Thanks! I bought the long block from a local parts store, I think it was called bumper to bumper or dimmicks. The place has changed names about 3 times though the years. I have this one (3m) and a small hand one that was flexible (some kind of rubber/foam material by 3m too).

At the time I just left the door handles & locks on the car, I removed later on when it was getting closer for paint. Epoxied in? wow, those little clips that hold it in aren't that expensive to replace! You may have to end up getting a long flathead screw driver or something equal and put it on there from the inside of the door and try knocking it out with a hammer. You may end up damaging the cylinder and the glass around the cylinder hole, but I don't know another way to do it! Maybe someone else can chime in on it.

Let me know if you ahve anymore questions.

Good luck!

Ryan
 
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