Zink chromate

For my birdcage, I was looking a various ways to protect it.

First tought was to powder coat it, then maybe have it dipped and galvanize it.

I looked at how Jeff Lilly does it and they use a lot of zinc chromate primer before painting the various parts.

They explained that they dont believe in dipping because companies who does that dont always rince out the parts properly.

Theres still chemicals could stay in nooks and crannies that could alter whatever finish you use afterwards.

I know this is what was used on Vettes, not sure if it's worth it to prime it with zinc like that then paint it, or have it powdercoat.

Of course, I love what this guy did.






What do you guys think???

Sandblasting will not reach everywhere, but dipping will. However, dipping can be flawed as stated because some residue WILL seep out later under the finish if not thoroughly rinsed.
That being said, unless you are going to use it in accliment weather or a DD, why bother? Most guys when finished are weekend/good weather warriors, and the car will never see the rust causing environment again.

BTW, if your gonna coat it. Powder coat it. Tough stuff.

big2bird said:

Most guys when finished are weekend/good weather warriors, and the car will never see the rust causing environment again.

Click to expand...

I'm going to take exception to that. Where i live, things rust out even when sitting in a garage. The salt is in the air. I suspect that is also the case even in the shore communities in the paradise that is southern california.

That gold coating looks like electroplating. Nice.

big2bird said:

Sandblasting will not reach everywhere, but dipping will. However, dipping can be flawed as stated because some residue WILL seep out later under the finish if not thoroughly rinsed.
That being said, unless you are going to use it in accliment weather or a DD, why bother? Most guys when finished are weekend/good weather warriors, and the car will never see the rust causing environment again.

Click to expand...

Your right, I dont think the car will be in much foul weather afterwards.
mostly a week end toy.


Powder coat will do the job..
good advice, I like that, I dont want to overkill, this is not a Ferrari Dino after all.

1Michel said:

big2bird said:

Sandblasting will not reach everywhere, but dipping will. However, dipping can be flawed as stated because some residue WILL seep out later under the finish if not thoroughly rinsed.
That being said, unless you are going to use it in accliment weather or a DD, why bother? Most guys when finished are weekend/good weather warriors, and the car will never see the rust causing environment again.

Click to expand...

Your right, I dont think the car will be in much foul weather afterwards.
mostly a week end toy.


Powder coat will do the job..
good advice, I like that, I dont want to overkill, this is not a Ferrari Dino after all.

Click to expand...

Is Powercoating any cheaper than galvanizing?
Because if it's a question of budget, Por15 brush and elbow grease should do the job just as good.
LizardSkin-like ceramic paint for the inside?

denpo said:

1Michel said:

big2bird said:

Sandblasting will not reach everywhere, but dipping will. However, dipping can be flawed as stated because some residue WILL seep out later under the finish if not thoroughly rinsed.
That being said, unless you are going to use it in accliment weather or a DD, why bother? Most guys when finished are weekend/good weather warriors, and the car will never see the rust causing environment again.

Click to expand...

Your right, I dont think the car will be in much foul weather afterwards.
mostly a week end toy.


Powder coat will do the job..
good advice, I like that, I dont want to overkill, this is not a Ferrari Dino after all.

Click to expand...

Is Powercoating any cheaper than galvanizing?
Because if it's a question of budget, Por15 brush and elbow grease should do the job just as good.
LizardSkin-like ceramic paint for the inside?

Click to expand...

A lot of guys don't like POR 15. I have had used it and like it. Its all about the preparation. The metal has to be clean of all contaminates like oil. It then has to have tooth to grab on to. I usually coat the metal with something like Must for Rust before the POR 15 application. Eastwood sells a similar product called Rust Encapsulator and Rust Converter. I have never used them however. I have used this stuff http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html. It is pretty easy to use and seems to get everywhere.

turtlevette said:

big2bird said:

Most guys when finished are weekend/good weather warriors, and the car will never see the rust causing environment again.

Click to expand...

I'm going to take exception to that. Where i live, things rust out even when sitting in a garage. The salt is in the air. I suspect that is also the case even in the shore communities in the paradise that is southern california.

Click to expand...

There is an issue within 2 miles of the ocean. Of course if your that close, you can afford to have it detailed once a month, or have a climate controlled garage.
Rust is just not a very common issue here. You have to go in the snow/mountains to even find road salt, and even then, it is used sparingly.

big2bird said:

You have to go in the snow/mountains to even find road salt, and even then, it is used sparingly.

Click to expand...

Tell that to Montreal's roads administration:hissyfit:

big2bird said:

A lot of guys don't like POR 15. I have had used it and like it. Its all about the preparation. The metal has to be clean of all contaminates like oil. It then has to have tooth to grab on to. I usually coat the metal with something like Must for Rust before the POR 15 application. Eastwood sells a similar product called Rust Encapsulator and Rust Converter. I have never used them however. I have used this stuff http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html. It is pretty easy to use and seems to get everywhere.

Click to expand...

POR 15 is actually a system : Marine Clean (solution of soap and lye) then Metal Ready (Phosphoric Acid) and then POR 15.
The two preparation product can be swapped for similar product.
For small pieces I usually also heat them dry with a propane torch to remove the last bits of moisture and grease before painting.

I prefer to use a good epoxy primer on bare steel. Years ago I tried the POR15 and while it seems to be a good product I prefer epoxy like the PPG DP series - the DP epoxy can be sprayed easily and is not hygroscopic. Pretty much the same as POR15 but it does not require any etching or sandblasting, it's also compatible with paint and primer.
The epoxy is a two part system with activator so it's resistant to pretty much anything short of acid or a angle grinder

I seen some posts where POR15 is not recommended for windshield frames. Seems to me if you are going to use butyl tape it sould not matter. POR15 is supposed to be a urethane so I dont know why it cant be used with a urethane windshield bond or sealer.