Rear Diff Cooler

Right - Flow - But I was thinking if I could just put a "wee bit of pressure" inside the diff - I could spray soapy solution on my seal to check it. But of course there is the vent to contend with. Suppose I could cap it somehow. Definately low pressure - 1 -2 psi minimum, so as not to blow any seals out - just pre check for potential leaks.

I think I've got the plan sorted out. Thanks for all the help.

Cheers - Jim

Here's the general "scheme of things."
My diagram below shows -12AN, but I went with -10AN. Availability of something to size down to the pump. MOCAL and Tiltons have 3/8" ports and finding a -12AN to 3/8" NPT was proving too much.



BTW - Hope the original owner of the basic image doesn't mind me using it as a "planning tool." Note: the finished bits are a "little different"-- the nature of planning!

Cheers - Jim

those pumps are good at pumping, not at sucking put it in line irst, before the filter and the cooler but with a small mesh trash filter. Barnes and Peterson have small cone shaped pre filters normally used on dry sump systems, they are perfect for the job.

TT -
Copy all and Thanks. What say you regarding the pump's vertical location?
Should it be below the pick up point? "On plane" with the pick up - or could I settle for mounting it above the entire rig?
My plan with the check valve is to provide sort of precharge the line - by filling the system and then mounting the pump - so it is always "full"and doesn't require any priming - as they are not self priming. I'm going looking for the Barnes & Peterson filters now. THX!
Cheers - Jim

BTW this is what I have - can't find the Barnes & Peterson:

I'm going to be curious if you will ever be able to get that 200 degree switch to kick in. I don't think a typical 20 minute track session will do it.

It's all gonna look super cool though.

turtlevette -
That's a good point - I have no idea what temp it will hit and will be hoping the temp gauge actually gets to read too! A bit of a compromise on it's placement - it's pretty close to max height of the fluid.
Beside any super cool looks - its an important insurance policy on my rear end.

Cheers - Jim

As just another data point, I run both a differential (C-3) cooler and a trans (Tremec TKO 600) cooler. The big advantage of the diff. cooler is a significant increase in fluid volume, which in itself helps cooling. I run the pick-up line off of the bottem of the case in the low trough below the pinion (drilled and taped for a fitting), and I spray the return oil on the ring gear AFTER it makes contact with the pinion. Some experts say if you spray the lube between the pinion and ring gears, that it will cause the gears to push apart on contact. I run a pre-screen, a Tilton pump, an 18-row cooler, and no filter. The diff. vent runs to a catch/fill can mounted above the rear end. The Tilton pump is a low volume/low pressure pump designed to move hot, thick fluids. The top of the cooler is just above the top of the diff., and it has a 10 inch Spal fan (pull). Air is ducted from side scoops through two 3 inch hoses to a receiver duct in the trunk. Exit air is ducted through a nozzle that exits through a screened area where the license plate goes. The trans. cooler uses a Tilton pump, a pre-screen, an 8-row cooler (no fan), and lots of -10 line. The cooler is also mounted and ducted out the rear of the car.

Great tips there

mfain -
CATCH CAN - yep! gotta add to the projo-now. Did you just slip a tube over the vent - or replace the vent and use the catch can as the new vent? That seems like the best approach.
Was thinking the same idea - air exit through the License plate - but hinging the plate at the top -- sort of 007-style That exit is well shown in your pics in the gallery - but nothing on the low mounted pickup. Considered that - but ruled out for ground clearence.
Again Thanks - more work to do.

Cheers - Jim

BTW - which ftrs when & where? - me phantoms - LUF/BIT/RMS/HST/OSN/HST/GSB...

Jim,

I over-drilled and tapped the old vent tube hole and installed an AN fitting for the line to the filler/catch can (it is a Peterson part). It is mounted directly above the third member and is accessible from the trunk. I had to use a 30 degree fitting to clear the crossmember, but it worked okay. The third member in my older photos is a 4:11 "place-holder" -- I haven't installed the Tom's unit (3:08), but I will drag it out and take pictures of the cooler in/out fittings. By using a 90 degree fitting on the lower port, ground clearance wasn't a real issue.

Jim,

Missed your last question -- I flew F15s (1985-1997 @ Eglin, Nellis, Bitburg, Mt. Home), F-5s (1979-1985 @ Nellis), and F4s (1974-1979 @ Eglin, Kunsan) and after I retired, A4Ns for a civilian contractor. Also 02s at DaNang.

mfain said:

Jim,

Missed your last question -- I flew F15s (1985-1997 @ Eglin, Nellis, Bitburg, Mt. Home), F-5s (1979-1985 @ Nellis), and F4s (1974-1979 @ Eglin, Kunsan) and after I retired, A4Ns for a civilian contractor. Also 02s at DaNang.

Click to expand...

Which was the most fun?

turtlevette said:

mfain said:

Jim,

Missed your last question -- I flew F15s (1985-1997 @ Eglin, Nellis, Bitburg, Mt. Home), F-5s (1979-1985 @ Nellis), and F4s (1974-1979 @ Eglin, Kunsan) and after I retired, A4Ns for a civilian contractor. Also 02s at DaNang.

Click to expand...

Which was the most fun?

Click to expand...

All different. The F5 and A4 were like autocrossers, the F15 like a GT Prototype at Daytona, and the F4 like a Monster Truck. All fun!

turtlevette said:

I'm going to be curious if you will ever be able to get that 200 degree switch to kick in. I don't think a typical 20 minute track session will do it.

It's all gonna look super cool though.

Click to expand...

FWIW (and I'm assuming some inaccuracies in the measurement method) I used my IR gun on the batwing after one of the track sessions at Gingerman last week and saw 210-230F. The batwing material (aluminum) was certainly doing its thing as I measured a definite temperature gradient outward from the cover area. Granted it's a low performance/efficiency fluid cooler, but it's better than the original cast iron cover.
If I find some spare time over the winter I think I'll put a temp sensor in there to measure the actual fluid temperature. Might be amusing to see what it actually is.