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  #21  
Old 01-26-2009, 11:21 PM
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cool.... make sure you take lots of pics

How are you going to fill the gap in the center? Since you're going to grind and feather across the joint anyways you could just support it from underneath and lay mat/SMC putty across...

Keep the gf happy... a bitchin girl doesn't speed up the process
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  #22  
Old 01-27-2009, 03:30 AM
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Shirley1978 Shirley1978 is offline
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i filled the gap by doing something simular to what adam did, but i couldnt do it exactly how he did it. he managed to save the section he cut off the bumper to glass on the extension and used the same lip to bolt up to the car.. he basically cut off the lip that bolts to the car, added glass to fill the gap, then put the lip back on.

I on the other hand, fucked up and didnt cut my lip out complete like he did. so i just have an extension for the gap but no lip to bolt it to the car. im going to fill the bottom of the extension with something to give it support and bolt the support to the car. the extension is pretty solid as it is, i added the fiberglass cloth in 2 layers after all the mat, but i dont want to leave it unsupported. one good push on the nose could ruin all my effort if i dont support it properly. ill figure somethin out

and the gf is happy, just had a bad day and decided to take it out on me..
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  #23  
Old 01-27-2009, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirley1978 View Post
i dont want to leave it unsupported. one good push on the nose could ruin all my effort if i dont support it properly. ill figure somethin out

That's the one disadvantage of fiberglass: if you hit something it will break and require repair. I'd drill holes into bumper and body, grind with 40 grit for maximum adhesion, support the opening from underneath (f.e. aluminum foil taped to the underside of both bumper and body), then glue mat and SMC adhesive to it. The Evercoat SMC filler would be good to use, it is compatible with SMC and fiberglass. You would only need it on the body side of the gap, then use fiberglass products on the bumper side and on top of the SMC adhesive....

The front is going to be one solid piece when you're done. Any damage to the bumper and you'll have to paint both fenders and the front....

The seamless bumper sure looks great but you have to be more careful than with a rubber piece up front ....
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  #24  
Old 01-27-2009, 04:19 PM
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What I don't get is why no vendor makes a bolt on bumper with no bumperettes. They make all kinds of ugly creations and something clean looking like that isn't available.
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  #25  
Old 01-27-2009, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo View Post
What I don't get is why no vendor makes a bolt on bumper with no bumperettes. They make all kinds of ugly creations and something clean looking like that isn't available.
While I think I have one of the "not so ugly" aftermarket creations I really like the no-bumperette look....

Maybe Shirley wants to learn a lot more about fiberglass and make a mold from the bumper extension piece ?

Anyway .... No fiberglass bumper is really a "bolt on" - they all require a lot of work to get them to fit right.... might as well add the extension piece to the '74 bumper.
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  #26  
Old 01-28-2009, 02:41 AM
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I agree with that statement,bolt on my Butt.
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  #27  
Old 01-28-2009, 04:13 AM
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Shirley1978 Shirley1978 is offline
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lol... no maybe i could make a mold, might be tough at this stage of the install tho... plus every car IS different..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo View Post
What I don't get is why no vendor makes a bolt on bumper with no bumperettes. They make all kinds of ugly creations and something clean looking like that isn't available.

i wondered also, but i have somewhat of an idea.

mybad79, did you have to remove or modify your crash bar at all to put the 80s style bumper on?

atleast with the 74 style bumper on a 75and later, the bumperets are part of the crash bar, it forms sorda like a T, where the middle leg is made up of the bumperets. someone would say "hey, just cut em off.." yeah,right.

these things are about and inch or two of hard rubber and has a 1/8th inch steel reinforcement. took me quite a while to cut thru it, even with a power tool.

in order to run the crash bar with the 74 style bumper you need to cut off the bottom of the T, heres a pic from Adams post, mine looks like this now



heres a stock one



notice under the solid rubber nose that theres a plate of rubber in between the bumperets.. its solid rubber + 1/8th inch metal under...
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  #28  
Old 01-28-2009, 04:17 AM
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Sounds like it's coming along nicely, post more pics!

And that center section was a bitch to cut through wasn't it? It ate my table saw motor. Ha.
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  #29  
Old 01-28-2009, 07:14 AM
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YES IT WAS! pics comming thursday!.. in in San Jose doing the college thing..
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  #30  
Old 01-28-2009, 11:31 AM
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I cut the rubber and I used a reciprocating saw, took "only" four blades

I missed the opportunity to remove the vacuum tube and some other stuff that doesn't have to be there....
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