Help me build a low buck/best bang engine

Imo Apita

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
244
I got a feeling "the other forum" is not the best place for this, so I'll try it here;
Need some help building a decent engine for a otherwise unmodified '79.

Current engine is a stock L-48 with a cam going bad, give or take 90K miles on it.

I scored a free engine and it turns out to be a 1972 350 with '65 double hump heads.
Comes out of a running '66 but the owner wanted it swapped since it smoked on start-up.
These are the numbers:
Right Head GM7 E135/
Left Head GM8 E148/

Other head #s 782461

Passenger side block behind the RH : F242 or E242 hard to read.
Rear of the block just above the crank H8 below the freeze plug on the right hand side 010

Already got the advise not to do anything with these heads and sell them.
According to www.corvettejunk.com these heads go for about $200/set.
The 461X heads go for about $1200.
So even if I sell them I won't be able to get anything decent in return.
Maximum budget for this rebuild is about $1000.
I know it's not much but that the way it is.
Having a q-jet rebuild by Cliff's is what $300?
That leaves $700 to play with.
Nothing outrageous, maybe 350HP, not interested in high top end numbers more 1000-5500 or 1500-6000.
This car won't see any 1/4 mile tracks maybe 1/8 once in a while for the fun of it. Daily driver and hopefully a rice-beater....:bounce:
Any low budget suggestions appreciated.
 
Apart from not knowing the mileage....I don't know.
Previous owner wanted the motor pulled because "it smoked on start up"
Otherwise it ran fine supposedly.
Guess could be valve seals or rings.
 
Assuming the valve seals are gone and it won't like unleaded gas I would replace the heads before I rebuit them. Based on that I would get some Vortec heads and matching intake. Builds your compression, fantastic port and chamber and low cost. A new cam & lifters and you have 350HP. Rebuild the Q-jet yourself!

I love it when guys spend $$$$ on the bottom end. Ever actually see a rod break or a crank fail? The stock stuff rocks as long as it does not knock.
 
The heads you got with that motor don't have any bolt holes for mounting the accessories I bet. It'll be pretty tough to find all the needed brackets that will (1) fit the accessories you have, and (B) fit a under Corvette hood. I dont' have any experience with the Vortech stuff, but seems like most think they do OK.
 
I dunno #'s at all, but would be concerned with the CRatio on those heads, especially if indeed off a smaller factory displacement block....

IF you plan on FI maybe in the not so distant future, you could go TPI, etc....

so to maybe build with that in mind, you can go a full point higher on CR without issue....

I have a 'bad attitude' in that after 25 years it's time to leave carbs and CARB behind (that latter is a political shot).....

:beer::shocking:
 
I'm curious about the compression ratio this guy was running.
62-64cc chambers....

Procomp heads :banned: go for about $675 assembled, $450 bare on ebay.
Still a lot of stuff on my honey-do list so me thinks new heads are out of the question for now.
Thinking maybe I should try my hand at porting.
 
Procomp heads on a low budget are not all THAT bad if you know haw to use a Dremel and clean the casting up a little.... cam going bad on a L48..yes, roller conversion... modern oils are not flat tappets best friend.... if the bottom is fine leave it alone, just replace the heads, intake and cam and you should see a good improvement and reliable camshaft performance...

I've ran a stock L48 with flat tops, Performer intake, and RPM heads and I really liked it, it was grewat for what it cost you....
 
MMMmmmm. roller conversion...:stirpot:
What are the cheapest options for a roller conversion for a '74 block?
 
ya know, I agree. That is what got me kicked off of other forums. All they want you to do is buy the most expensive parts and bolt them up so you can be as cool as them.

One forum actually has a sticky saying "here's how to build a motor" and all it is, is a compilation of sponsors parts.

Here's a link that makes the point...

http://www.corvette-guru.com/module..._id=6345&forum=1&post_id=63562#forumpost63562

Probably 7K between one motor with all the cool parts, and one with run of the mill parts, and the results were basically IDENTICAL.

I would NEVER take the advice of anyone on Corvette Forum or Guru as they have the distinct propensity to mearly suggest brand names with any consideration of the application, budget, or desire of the customer. They are a bunch of lemmings and if you have the balls to NOT follow their "direction" they will gang up and abuse you. I find the knowledge there significantly lacking and at best poor, and at worst dangerous.
 
MMMmmmm. roller conversion...:stirpot:
What are the cheapest options for a roller conversion for a '74 block?

Don't do it, them aftermarket toggle pair roller lifters are fine for petted over race cars, but street durability is questionable....note that GM/Mopar/ maybe others have the dog bone and DD flat sided lifters design... I would leave it alone.......

:suicide:
 
ya know, I agree. That is what got me kicked off of other forums. All they want you to do is buy the most expensive parts and bolt them up so you can be as cool as them.

One forum actually has a sticky saying "here's how to build a motor" and all it is, is a compilation of sponsors parts.

Here's a link that makes the point...

http://www.corvette-guru.com/module..._id=6345&forum=1&post_id=63562#forumpost63562

Probably 7K between one motor with all the cool parts, and one with run of the mill parts, and the results were basically IDENTICAL.

I would NEVER take the advice of anyone on Corvette Forum or Guru as they have the distinct propensity to mearly suggest brand names with any consideration of the application, budget, or desire of the customer. They are a bunch of lemmings and if you have the balls to NOT follow their "direction" they will gang up and abuse you. I find the knowledge there significantly lacking and at best poor, and at worst dangerous.

You are largely correct on that, but being a cantankerous olde tyme hotrodder used to junkyard pickin's, I still post of my escapades, and so they can think what they want.....:hissyfit::D:hunter:
 
HEY!

I just remembered.

The guy around the block has a bunch of parts he paid almost $1800 for, He'll take $800. Pistons, connecting rods, retro fit roller, lifters.....

Let me know, the parts are BRAND NEW never installed. I posted the list here at one point.

Here it is:
http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3770
 
I'm curious about the compression ratio this guy was running.
62-64cc chambers....

Procomp heads :banned: go for about $675 assembled, $450 bare on ebay.
Still a lot of stuff on my honey-do list so me thinks new heads are out of the question for now.
Thinking maybe I should try my hand at porting.

I got a set of Procomp 3003s on my work bench right now. I've done visual inspection of cast, machined surfaces, threads and aligment, as well as liquid measuring to runners and compression chambers. This look good so far. I am very impressed by the quality of cast and CNCing. As I see now they won't need any extra work/porting prior to installation if a mild tuned street car is the object .... the ones I got are good for direct bolt on as cast, however, the exhaust and intake manifolds will need some gasket matching. This is due to the Procomp 3003s larger runners. I'll come back to this later in a new thread explaining my findings in due time.
rgds
Arne
 
I got a set of Procomp 3003s on my work bench right now. I've done visual inspection of cast, machined surfaces, threads and aligment, as well as liquid measuring to runners and compression chambers. This look good so far. I am very impressed by the quality of cast and CNCing. As I see now they won't need any extra work/porting prior to installation if a mild tuned street car is the object .... the ones I got are good for direct bolt on as cast, however, the exhaust and intake manifolds will need some gasket matching. This is due to the Procomp 3003s larger runners. I'll come back to this later in a new thread explaining my findings in due time.
rgds
Arne

How about some pictures? If you can. Thanks.:thumbs:
 
OK finally went to pick up the motor.
Plugs looked horrible, one of them completely caked.
Half the lifters are pitted the other half look fine.
Some of them really concave some of them seem straight.
Most of the rockers are worn with a couple of them almost to the point of the pushrod poking through.
But here's the good news:

  • Intake valves are at least the larger 2.02's
  • Three little freeze plugs at the rear of the block have been replaced with threaded plugs already
  • Pistons seem to be the flattops with valve reliefs. Any idea what the "H" is?
  • Bores seems smooth with no ridge in them

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Damn, I've beat the shit out of many engines in my time and seen a lot of other broken ones, but i've never seen lifters that badly beat.

It looks like that engine has been burning oil for a long time. You'd probably be better off just buying a bottom of the line new Goodwrench engine rather than putting all the machine work into that one. Things look that bad....really. I wouldn't be surprised if the block was cracked or deck warped. Also watch that the lifter bores aren't excessively worn.
 
Well this engine is like a girl friend I used to have: chubby but cheap and grateful till something else comes along.:rofl:
It will have to do.
Pistons will clean up with a little sandblasting and so will the combustion chambers.
Do the cylinder walls look glazed?
I don't understand why half the lifters are concave and the other half are straight...half assed rebuild?
Somebody did something since the small freeze plugs have been replaced by threaded plugs.
 
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