Opinions on a Solid Roller cam in a daily driver

Imo Apita

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Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
244
The latest side step in my everlasting l-48 rebuild.
Due to various financial reasons my 383 stroker project keeps changing directions.
Been reading up on SR cams in daily drivers, seems to be two schools of thought; yah and nay.
Arguments ranging from won't last to won't spin, will spin, noisy, setting lash once a year, once every two years, every day.
Also something about a bigger SR cam acting as a smaller HR cam in regards to idle vacuum.

I have a vague understanding of the oiling issues at low rpm's.
Can that be fixed with a lifter bore groove?

Solid roller lifters seems to be a lot cheaper then hydraulic roller lifters, hence the recent sidestep.

I just like the idea of an old school solid roller stroker that won't break my bank.
Thoughts idea's? Go or no-go's? Do's and don'ts?
 
With the correct selection of parts- especially lifters, no reason I can see not to. From the info I've read, the problem is oil to the rollers, and someone has increased not only the amount of oil to the roller, but also the contact area of the roller to the cam.
Adjustment should be no deal- how many guys run solid flat tappets and adjust them a couple times a year? If the rocker nuts are good (or poly locks), after the initial break in and initial wear adjustment, unless something breaks or you're running spring pressures in the stratosphere, that should not be an issue.
Hydraulic rollers will run less spring pressure and maybe a little easier on the rest of the parts too. But they also won't get the RPM that a solid roller will.

FWIW: when I get my act together enough to build Ol' Red a new heart, it'll be a solid roller. All I need is the spare cash for everything but the block, intake and carb.
 
Sure, unless it's your DD. You don't want to be forced to adjust that shit after getting home one night at 11pm when you have work the next morning if you hear it clapping around.
 
I would just go with the hydraulic rollers with the link bars. I've had my Comp set for about 5 years now, still running good.
 
PS, I'm no stranger to blowing up pistons and head gaskets, and I've had to readjust my valves more times than I can count. And I fu*king hate it. I can't imagine having to do that all the time. Cranking that damn motor over with a wrench 16 times. No thank you.

No offense Tim. :p
 
I had spoke with Jim on this before I took that direction on my motor.

As he had indicated I have not had any issues with adjusting the lifters nor any oiling issues. I had read about the same issues on the net prior to going that direction with my motor.

I would suggest getting a cam with a pressed on dist drive gear that way you don't need to be concerned with changing to a bronze dist drive gear. I'll be changing mine soon.

I've adjusted my lifters once since the install, now I don't drive my car every day but Jim does put a lot of miles on his and has commented on not having to adjust his lifters either.

I would not buy the cheapest lifters I could find when it comes to a solid roller cam, buy brand name lifters and you should be fine.

Once the lifters are adjusted there is no reason to re-adjust unless there is an issue with wear and if this is the case than you need to find the problem.

Solid roller lifter motors are a little noisier than hydraulic lifter motors so if you are wanting a quiet motor than a solid roller motor may not be for you.

Neal
 
Been running a solid roller for maybe 10 years in my 383. I check the lash annually, and NEVER have I had to adjust them. I use Crane pin-fed oiling lifters @ 210lb. seat pressure. I only run billet cams. (IMO, a MUST for longevity). Poly-locks are a must. I would suggest you stay with a "tight-lash" cam, as they are easier on the lifter rollers and cam lobes. Again, IMO, constant lash adjustment was probably due to either using resistance-type rocker nuts or improper (too high) spring rates.
 
Thanks so far gents.
That motor is going to be noisy anyway....
Can't be too concerned about some lifter noise.
With the side exhaust it be surprising if I can hear anything at all.
Big G do you have a part number for the Crane lifters you're using?
 
I've heard of people using a rev kit to help keep the roller on the cam all the time. It seems like it would work pretty well actually

But it really depends on what your going to do for your valve train and what spring pressures

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Best to make sure those "advising" you have actually run a SR and aren't just opining. I never ran a SBC SR as a DD but I have a BB. No rev kit or stud girdle either.

IIRC, once a year on the valve lash adjustment/checking. Lash settings remained amazingly consistent.

Jake
 
A couple more questions;

The expansion rate of aluminum is different then steel/cast iron, I got that far. Anybody ever heard of any issues running a SR cam with aluminum heads?
Issues as far as tighter lash required when running aluminum heads?

Similar question concerning aluminum rockers with a SR cam.
But gut feeling tells me to stick with steel rockers in combination with a SR cam. Or am I missing the point here?

Standing by to me edumecated by the real engine builders.......:twitch:
 
Been running a solid roller for maybe 10 years in my 383. I check the lash annually, and NEVER have I had to adjust them. I use Crane pin-fed oiling lifters @ 210lb. seat pressure. I only run billet cams. (IMO, a MUST for longevity). Poly-locks are a must. I would suggest you stay with a "tight-lash" cam, as they are easier on the lifter rollers and cam lobes. Again, IMO, constant lash adjustment was probably due to either using resistance-type rocker nuts or improper (too high) spring rates.

Wow, I had no idea they could be so maintenance free. :surrender:
 
Been running a solid roller for maybe 10 years in my 383. I check the lash annually, and NEVER have I had to adjust them. I use Crane pin-fed oiling lifters @ 210lb. seat pressure. I only run billet cams. (IMO, a MUST for longevity). Poly-locks are a must. I would suggest you stay with a "tight-lash" cam, as they are easier on the lifter rollers and cam lobes. Again, IMO, constant lash adjustment was probably due to either using resistance-type rocker nuts or improper (too high) spring rates.

Wow, I had no idea they could be so maintenance free. :surrender:
Think of it this way: If the lash is opening up (never heard of it closing up) then something is either loosening up (rocker hardware) or you're losing metal somewhere (never good). I think I may even skip this winters annual lash check.:beer:
 
Best to make sure those "advising" you have actually run a SR and aren't just opining. I never ran a SBC SR as a DD but I have a BB. No rev kit or stud girdle either.

IIRC, once a year on the valve lash adjustment/checking. Lash settings remained amazingly consistent.

Jake

77 vette, 496 BBC, Zoops serp drive, Lunati solid roller 287IN/292EX adv dur, .703/.693 lift, ported GM oval heads, Lunati 1.7:1 roller rockers, Ross postons, Holley strip dominator intake, Holley 1000 cfm HP carb, 10:1 comp, Accel HEI with MSD module W/Rev limiter, Hugh's TH350 with 2800 rpm stall,

2554842b04452d74.jpg
 
Anybody want to take a stab at my last set of newbie questions? :tomato:

The expansion rate of aluminum is different then steel/cast iron, I got that far. Anybody ever heard of any issues running a SR cam with aluminum heads?
Issues as far as tighter lash required when running aluminum heads?

Similar question concerning aluminum rockers with a SR cam.
But gut feeling tells me to stick with steel rockers in combination with a SR cam. Or am I missing the point here?

Gorgeous looking motor 496BBC :1st:
 
A couple more questions;

The expansion rate of aluminum is different then steel/cast iron, I got that far. Anybody ever heard of any issues running a SR cam with aluminum heads?
Issues as far as tighter lash required when running aluminum heads?

Similar question concerning aluminum rockers with a SR cam.
But gut feeling tells me to stick with steel rockers in combination with a SR cam. Or am I missing the point here?

Standing by to me edumecated by the real engine builders.......:twitch:

1: I'll bet at least 90% of the people running a solid roller cam are also running aluminum heads.
2: As far as lash with aluminum heads, set them cold, then get the motor hot. Note the new lash. Do the math and adjust the cold lash numbers to include the hot lash change. Then from now on, check them cold.
3: I don't trust aluminum rockers on high lift/high spring rate applications. I like the Comp. Cams S/S full rollers myself.
 
does it really make sense to combine a solid roller cam that is good for high rpm with a 2 bolt main (L48) ???

If you want to run high rpm I'd install the main caps with the angled bolts... which probably as expensive as buying a new block - last time I checked the caps were like $250 plus install (machining work)....

maybe a low rpm torque engine with a mild hydr roller cam is the better choice ???

Just throwing out some food for thoughts.....
 
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