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  #231  
Old 04-13-2013, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet View Post
this stuff worked well and definitely left an anti corrosive film on the fresh metal and turned the rust black. i am not sure i would paint over the film it left on the fresh metal but the rusty parts it tuned black and you could paint over it for a chassis or something like that.
I just used Eastwood's rust converter on my gas tank. It never seemed to totally dry and is still tacky. Is this normal?

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  #232  
Old 04-13-2013, 10:02 PM
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kidvette ...seems to me that where there was rust it will turn black and dry on the paint it will stay wet/moist....so on my body where it was rusty its black on clean sheet metal its gray and dry and on the inner fenders that were primed the drips/runs were wet and i wiped them off.


4 hrs doing some weld repairs and wire brushing the under side of the scuttle and the top shelf in the engine compartment that was a dirty job...

.





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  #233  
Old 04-14-2013, 01:03 AM
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is that green stuff Rustoleum self etching primer? I use that a lot, seems to work well and is also compatible with urethane primer
I use it for small areas when I don't want to start my compressor and fill the 60 gallon tank.... a total waste if you only want to fix a small spot.... cleaning the gun is a pain as well.....

... that said..... PPG makes "Shopline" self etching primer that would be perfect for what you're priming there.... that seems to be quiet a bit of area and if you use 5 spraycans you might as well buy a QT of that shopline primer....

might be cheaper overall.....

on that rust converter: on anything other than rust it's going to stay "slimey" .... I used some rust converter once (forgot what brand) and it turned rust into black "something" .... well, when I sanded it I exposed the brown rust under the black..... doesn't seem to penetrate very well....

I tried so many different magic products over the years and became a believer in sandblasting and epoxy primer.... not saying you MUST sandblast everything but to me it seems it's quick, easy and it truly gets it down to the bare steel
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  #234  
Old 04-14-2013, 01:42 AM
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Its dupilcolor self etching primer i am staying in the same paint line for all of my paint products.

if i had the time to devote exclusively to the car the rattle can primer wouldnt be as attractive as it is. this was a good example of how my time kind of pushes me to the product i used. my several hours of work were finished and resulted in me needing to prime maybe 12 sq ft. so realistically 10 minutes later i was finished with no cleaning of any thing. i dont suggest thats its cheaper just easier on my schedule. doesnt seem to make much sense to clean a gun for 12 sq ft. i started using this primer on my 37 ford and i really like it. i have sanded it enough to know that it really bites in well.
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  #235  
Old 04-14-2013, 08:13 PM
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Suffering from rust trauma, I kept having a weird awe/cringe mixed feeling following your thread.
It feels much better now.
You're blowing my definition of "beyond repair".
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  #236  
Old 04-15-2013, 12:12 AM
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my mentor Mr Ginther use to say eat the elephant one bite at a time.....

I kept working my way around the inside of the car.....wire brush, sand paper, degreaser, scotch brite pad degreaser etc etc etc. one or two weld patch panels. i painted the areas that had the signs of the weld penetration. i am thinking seriously of using panel adhesive on the rocker panels and maybe even the fender patch panels









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  #237  
Old 04-15-2013, 12:29 AM
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never say "beyond repair" LOL
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  #238  
Old 04-15-2013, 12:58 AM
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if you look close you can see the factory weld on a radius for making the fender arch and the hand hammering around it


Karsten help me find a primer you like that works with the lacquer and I will expand my horizons....on the inside of the fenders. i like trying new things and as i think about it thats a lot of surface area and would be a good learning environment. bob
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  #239  
Old 04-15-2013, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobs77vet View Post
if you look close you can see the factory weld on a radius for making the fender arch and the hand hammering around it


Karsten help me find a primer you like that works with the lacquer and I will expand my horizons....on the inside of the fenders. i like trying new things and as i think about it thats a lot of surface area and would be a good learning environment. bob
well... don't think there's an easy answer.....

if it was me..... I believe you have invested so much time and effort in this car, it deserves the best..... I'd have some local company blast it for me (or just buy a blaster) and I'd use PPG DP epoxy on the bare steel, that will prime and seal once and for all.... that primer is about $300 a gallon and by the smell of it I'm sure it can cause cancer, mutations and what not.....

no idea if it will work with laquer, probably not...... but that's just my guess..... I have never used single stage or laquer, I find the base/clear is so easy to use and the results (even mine) are great, I never felt the neeed to explore other options....

if you're looking for a great "kit" from primer to clearcoat look at tcpglobal's restaurationshop stuff and Kustomshop primers.... primer (epoxy plus high build urethane), base/clear incl reducer and activator is under $500 shipped - that gets you a gallon each, way more than you need for one small car.....
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  #240  
Old 04-16-2013, 08:47 PM
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ok thks, i think for this one i will just stay on the course i am on. thks bob
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