Go Back   VetteMOD.com > VetteMOD Workshop > Restoration Techniques

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #11  
Old 10-02-2009, 12:46 AM
1Michel 1Michel is offline
Canada | Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Saint Joseph du lac, Québec
Posts: 1,523
My Photos: (494)
Default

I tried it on a clutch housing with the plate, it was mostly surface rust.
Dunked it in a rubbermaid bucket and added some baking soda and pluged it.
Checked on it after about 1/2 hour the rust was coming off.
forgot about it for the night and next morning the thing was pretty damn clean.
I was impressed.
__________________
Eat dessert first! life's unexpected!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-02-2009, 10:13 PM
AColbe01's Avatar
AColbe01 AColbe01 is offline
United States | Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 28
My Photos: (12)
Default

Also check out about Hydrogen embrittlemnt(sp?) as a result and heating material afterwards to remove.

Interesting stuff, but big no-no to use stainless steel.

Andy
__________________
Just about the time I think I can get the ends to meet someone moves the ends!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 10-06-2009, 06:29 PM
DWncchs's Avatar
DWncchs DWncchs is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 341
My Photos: (0)
Default

I'm using a power source from an old cordless phone. 9v 450ma It seems to be doing a good job and it shouldn't be using near the power of my regular car charger. My car charger is a little noisy as this is silent. Who doesn't have a box of these little chargers laying around.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 10-19-2009, 02:38 AM
68/70Vette 68/70Vette is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Torrance, Ca.USA
Posts: 1,051
My Photos: (0)
Default

I've de-rusted quite a few parts for my 68 and 70 Corvette projects.
For parts like rear wheel spindle assemblies where I didn't want to destroy machine dimensions (bearing inserts), I used vinegar. It's active ingredient is acetic acid. Vinegar is about 5% acid and the acetic acid is very gentle. It removes rust. It takes a day or so. When you dunk your parts in vinegar, within a few minutes you can see little bubbles forming on the metal. The bubbles are hydrogen gas and you know the vinegar is working. The great thing about vinegar is that you can dunk you hands in it without worry.

I use cardboard boxes, tape several together, and then fiberglass line the inside of the boxes to make my acid soaking vats. It's expensive. I've spent pretty close to $100 for fiberglass and resin making a soaking vat.

For more aggressive de-rusting where accurate machine dimensions are not a worry(transmission crossmember, front first most crossmember), I use hydrochloric acid (muratic acid). Plumbing supply stores sell it. I usually dilute it enough so that i can put my hands in safely. It's dilute, but I can often feel a little sting, so I can quickly wash my hands off. It causes an active bubbling (foaming).

If you've got a cad plated part that's become ugly with age, just dunk it in hydrochloric acid and it'll immediately take off the cad plating.

I'll have to check with my plater, but I think hydrochloric acid takes off chrome, but it doesn't take off nickel. Maybe I've got it backward???

Anyhow, electrolysis is not always needed.

Last edited by 68/70Vette; 10-19-2009 at 02:45 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-19-2009, 12:41 PM
DWncchs's Avatar
DWncchs DWncchs is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 341
My Photos: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68/70Vette View Post
Anyhow, electrolysis is not always needed.
But it sounds like it might be cheaper.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 10-20-2009, 10:05 AM
phantomjock's Avatar
phantomjock phantomjock is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Retired Again!
Posts: 1,291
My Photos: (666)
Default

Hey Guys!
Very cool approach. Wonder if you have an idea for internal rust?
A bolt (last one of course) is ABSOLUTELY STUCK on my front wheel holding the brake caliper on.
I have use so far:
1. Heat -- just got hot and smoked
2. Kroil Oil -- good stuff -- usually but no go
3. PB Blaster --- this has been the ticket in the past -- no show
4. Truning in -- wouldn't budge that way either,
5. PB Soaking --several days now -- still stuck
6. Heat around the bolt, frezze-on the bolt -- still stuck

Now, I'm just about out of ideas. Was wondering if maybe electrocuting the sumbuitch might shock it into submission. Gotta come up with someting before the head is totally rounded off (yes using 6 sided socket.)

Maybe drill a hole in the center and try and collapse the bolt? I get the idea maybe a twist out would twist off from how stuck it seams.

HELP!

Cheers - Jim
__________________
Rebuilder's Zen Saying:
One thought leads to another. If these thoughts link into a chain we become bound to the project. This bondage is subtle and remains until we complete the tasks -- or, STOP Thinking!
[Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...]
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 10-20-2009, 03:05 PM
DWncchs's Avatar
DWncchs DWncchs is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 341
My Photos: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomjock View Post
Hey Guys!
Very cool approach. Wonder if you have an idea for internal rust?
A bolt (last one of course) is ABSOLUTELY STUCK on my front wheel holding the brake caliper on.
I have use so far:
1. Heat -- just got hot and smoked
2. Kroil Oil -- good stuff -- usually but no go
3. PB Blaster --- this has been the ticket in the past -- no show
4. Truning in -- wouldn't budge that way either,
5. PB Soaking --several days now -- still stuck
6. Heat around the bolt, frezze-on the bolt -- still stuck

Now, I'm just about out of ideas. Was wondering if maybe electrocuting the sumbuitch might shock it into submission. Gotta come up with someting before the head is totally rounded off (yes using 6 sided socket.)

Maybe drill a hole in the center and try and collapse the bolt? I get the idea maybe a twist out would twist off from how stuck it seams.

HELP!

Cheers - Jim
Heat the caliper where the bolt goes into it not the bolt.
Use an impact wrench.
Usually on the caliper side there is a small hole where the end of the bolt comes through,maybe spraying PB in the hole will help.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 10-29-2009, 11:36 PM
68/70Vette 68/70Vette is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Torrance, Ca.USA
Posts: 1,051
My Photos: (0)
Default

Have you tried an impact wrench. I've had suspension component bolts that didn't want to turn with a straight bar wrench. When I used the impact wrench, they spun right out.

Another good aspect of impact wrenches are that I believe they are generally less prone to rounding off the bolt head. I think the jarring impacts are the key reason these wrenches can be so effective loosing bolts.

......and a possible downer. It is possible for the impact wrench to snap the head of the bolt off.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-03-2009, 06:33 PM
1981Z06Vette's Avatar
1981Z06Vette 1981Z06Vette is offline
United States | Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 90
My Photos: (0)
Default

I have had good luck using vinegar myself...its great on pitted, but otherwise good sheetmetal, and for rusty tools. I'll have to try the electroysis method sometime, thanks for sharing!
__________________
Joe Hinds- Bulldawg MuscleCars
[Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...]
1981 Corvette (under construction) LQ4 6.0 stroker/T56
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 05:21 AM.
 


Design by: vBulletin Skins Zone
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.