72 resto first timer in need of guidance

lilblkshp

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May 25, 2011
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hello to all, my name is dan and i live in atlanta, ga. i am attempting my first project. i have already installed the front and rear vbp performance plus thanks to others in forums. now i am attempting the rack attack install, any pics or videos would be greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome to the motley crew....

I two have a '72....for some 16 years now....it's a hotrod, suspect I have done lots of what you have in mind in some form or other....

but being a 1/2 century old hotrodder, I used to junkyard shopping for parts, and sort of roll my own...

:quote:
 
Welcome to VetteMod. :hi:

The RackAttack is the VBP version of the Steeroids setup right?? It should be a straightforward install and usually VBP's instructions are pretty good.
If I remember correctly they have only 2 joints on the steering shaft and it required cutting the engine mount for clearance.
I'm going to install my rack setup with the same 2 joint setup, I'll cut a hole in the engine mount and weld a piece of pipe in there to restore the engine mount and run the steering shaft thru the pipe.
 
Welcome to VetteMod. :hi:

The RackAttack is the VBP version of the Steeroids setup right?? It should be a straightforward install and usually VBP's instructions are pretty good.
If I remember correctly they have only 2 joints on the steering shaft and it required cutting the engine mount for clearance.
I'm going to install my rack setup with the same 2 joint setup, I'll cut a hole in the engine mount and weld a piece of pipe in there to restore the engine mount and run the steering shaft thru the pipe.


Won't work with anything close to a stock oil pan....you need to cut a crescent out of the back of the engine mount horn...you can't get the vertical on the rack to go higher because of oil pan and raising the input shaft to more vertical, relaxes the upper U joint on steering input, enough to make 2 universals work....


:quote::nuts:
 
Won't work with anything close to a stock oil pan....you need to cut a crescent out of the back of the engine mount horn...you can't get the vertical on the rack to go higher because of oil pan and raising the input shaft to more vertical, relaxes the upper U joint on steering input, enough to make 2 universals work....


:quote::nuts:

Why would welding a pipe in there after cutting the engine mount horn not work? Maybe just weld half a pipe in there ???
 
Won't work with anything close to a stock oil pan....you need to cut a crescent out of the back of the engine mount horn...you can't get the vertical on the rack to go higher because of oil pan and raising the input shaft to more vertical, relaxes the upper U joint on steering input, enough to make 2 universals work....


:quote::nuts:

Why would welding a pipe in there after cutting the engine mount horn not work? Maybe just weld half a pipe in there ???

OH, I"m sorry, my mind did not meet up with your thought, you must mean going fore/aft up in the crescent of the cut, I assume, problem is, you then cant get at the rack hose connections, they wind up under the frame horn ...in that cavity...I going by my recollection now, but my car has been fine with the rear crescent cut out on it....almost ten years now...

SB roller ~425 ft lbs....

:nuts:
 
hello to all, my name is dan and i live in atlanta, ga. i am attempting my first project. i have already installed the front and rear vbp performance plus thanks to others in forums. now i am attempting the rack attack install, any pics or videos would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome onboard. :)

Im new her aswell and run an 1972 BB.

I havnt wieved the Rack Attack closly but on the VBP pictures it looks very similar to the Steeroids kit that i bought.

However, judging by the pictures it appears that the Rack Attack system doesnt have uniballs in both ends of the steering rods.

I belive that if the Rack Attack uses the stock type outer ends the posability to adjust for "bump steer" goes away..?

"Bump steer" means that the wheel will turn slightly (steering angle) as the suspension alows the wheel to move up and down.

This happens becouse the angels between the steering arm at the wheel is different from the other end that is conected to the R&P.

I started the mounting of my Steeroids kit as per the book.
However, during the installation i found ways to improve it..

First of all, make absolutely shure that all the welding spots (both on the brackets and on your frame) are 100% removed, otherwise your brackets will ride on these and there is a chanse they will work themself loose.

When i had bolted the Steeroids in postition i lowered the car and turned the steeringwheel.
I now saw that the brackets was flexing a lot, also the rubber bushing on the drivers side allowed for quite some movement..

In my opinion there should be minimal flexing for maximum feeling and controll. :)

I whent the whole way, i reinforced the brackets, welded them to the frame and had an aluminum bushing milled out to replace the flexible drivers side rubbermount.
I kept the rubber mount on the passengerside to not put stress on the steering in case my frame should be flexing.

This is in breef words how i did it and i got pictures of most of the mods and installation if you are interested.

Brg.
Ricky.
 
I installed the Steeroids kit on my '78. No mods to the car required.
Very straight forward instructions. You may want to install the Borgeson
Power Steering Pressure Reducing Kit.
 
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