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  #131  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
everdur is also know as silicone bronze .... some people call it siliconing by weld
I have some of that to fill some spots on a part using TIG, Seen it on MuscleCar on Spike a couple years ago
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  #132  
Old 01-28-2013, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
everdur is also know as silicone bronze .... some people call it siliconing by weld
I have some of that to fill some spots on a part using TIG, Seen it on MuscleCar on Spike a couple years ago
I grew up working in my dad's metal-fab shop, we used silicone bronze to fuse galv. coated steel (knocks down the splatter) when we TIG'd it together. A word of caution, it is not a strong way of welding....

It was recently where desperation (welding a rusty roof on a MOPAR) gave me the thought to use it with my mig.... worked well, best looking MOPAR in the scrap yard (I'm serious about the scrap yard, tough call on best looking )
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  #133  
Old 01-29-2013, 02:02 AM
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the steel filler rod always seems to work for me and since its steel the end result is pretty strong. it just dissolves in the pool of molten metal. i cant recall actually ever brazing anything...other then maybe a radiator

this project should give every body hope for their cars....I think the key is to have honest expectations of what the end product is going to look like....you know "its hard to make a silk purse out of a sows ear". I am pretty sure I am going to make this into a period style vintage racer that way the battle scars will look right in line...I dont get too wound up in having everything just the way it came from the factory....that I can tell you drives some Corvette guys nuts, so to the purists I will apologize in advance.

I only have pictures of half of the nose repair areas I must have gotten too busy and forgot to take pictures of the other side








so out comes the MIG .025 wire and settings A and B wire feed 3 to 4.25

heres the rough welding





before it gets ground down

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  #134  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:52 PM
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two hours tonight peeling back the layer of steel that was spot welded to the inner fender. I used a grinder to grind the spot welds and then peeled the layer off like opening a can.





i used the channel locks to coil up the layer i was removing



here you can see the grinds on the spot welds, all you have to do is hit the metal with the grinder and indentation will show you where the spot weld is.




and a finished side



two finished sides

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  #135  
Old 02-03-2013, 04:51 PM
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another 2 hrs of work



same process grind the metal and the spot weld divet indentation shows up and then grind and peel away








again I take this seriously











in case any body ever wanted to see some unusual shots






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  #136  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:05 PM
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I was thinking about how I am going to make the splice work and I came up with this idea.

I cut the inner frame support from the bonnet



then trimmed it



slipped it inside the support and made it two





and did a test fit



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  #137  
Old 02-05-2013, 03:20 AM
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one more hour to fix the last piece of rust on the front shroud




and the piece from the donor inner fender







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  #138  
Old 02-05-2013, 05:20 AM
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I must be unclear on the concept here..... you cut a rusty, dented, greasy piece of metal off the fender; then welded a red, rusty, dented, greasy piece of metal in its place?




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  #139  
Old 02-05-2013, 07:01 PM
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I must be unclear on the concept here..... you cut a rusty, dented, greasy piece of metal off the fender; then welded a red, rusty, dented, greasy piece of metal in its place?


amen brother
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  #140  
Old 02-06-2013, 11:41 PM
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4 hrs today ....I really took my time to make sure i didnt screw up

heres how you can make lines that are transferrable



you can get the idea of how the splice will work



really taking my time so i dont have an accidental over cut



slowly you can see the gap getting smaller




so heres the big gap that needs to be made smaller





getting close and i used a 1/4" rod to transfer the cut line



so i used those alinging pieces inside the bonnet frame support and you can see the gap getting closer



at this point both sides are really close


so to make the final cut its all clamped in and i very slowly use the cut off wheel and make a cut right in the middle of splice line





close to the final splice the rest of the trimming will be done with a hand file


final gaps









and i need to tweak this alittle



here i am using copper in between my temp splice and the two sections of the bonnet so i can weld the outer drip rail



all tacked in place and time to stop, everything went very well so some times you need to know when to stop



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