My new 97 Firebird project I got for a 1,000.00

JeffP1167

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Joined
Dec 21, 2009
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Location
Yucaipa, CA.
Motor rattles pretty bad but it is super clean & super complete. It has the 3.8 V-6 and a 5 speed.

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What are you going to do with it?

Since it need no cosmetic work whatsoever, I thought is what I would do is pull the 150k 3.8 out of my 97 camaro you see pictured and put new bearings, rings, cam etc in it and drop it into this firebird.

Then maybe do a LT1/4l60e swap on my camaro like I have always wanted to do. Or drop a brand new engine and trans in it so my son has a perfect first car.

This firebird has a super clean interior (kind of a tan color) no tears in seats, carpets have just very minor stains, 2 owner car. I have driven it about a block and 5 speed shifts really nice and car drives very nice too.

stain you see on carpet is on floor mats.

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We had a 95 Firebird with a 3.8 V6 in it and we took it cross country. 33 mpg on an old technology car was very impressive and the 3.8 is no slug either. I say do your 3.8 transplant and enjoy the car. It should give you years of good service.
 
I crawled under car today and found this.

On this 5 speed it has sight notches on bottom of flywheel where you can see it.

I took a screw driver and the flywheel can be moved forward and back by about a 1/4 inch.

obviously that is a problem but could the crankshaft have broke and that is allowing it to happen?

Unplugging one plug at a time make no difference.

Idle oil pressure stay between first mark and 60 psi and climbs as rpms do

harmonic balancer does NOT wobble nor does the serpentine belt

under the car it sound like the noise is more around the transmission

constant oil drip from clutch housing

prior owner said clutch was done about 5 months ago
 
I crawled under car today and found this.

On this 5 speed it has sight notches on bottom of flywheel where you can see it.

I took a screw driver and the flywheel can be moved forward and back by about a 1/4 inch.

obviously that is a problem but could the crankshaft have broke and that is allowing it to happen?

Unplugging one plug at a time make no difference.

Idle oil pressure stay between first mark and 60 psi and climbs as rpms do

harmonic balancer does NOT wobble nor does the serpentine belt

under the car it sound like the noise is more around the transmission

constant oil drip from clutch housing

prior owner said clutch was done about 5 months ago

If the crank was broken enough to move the flywheel back and forth 1/4 inch with a screw driver, the engine would self destruct in seconds.

Maybe when the clutch was "done" 5 months ago, they forgot to tighten the bolts!
 
If the crank was broken enough to move the flywheel back and forth 1/4 inch with a screw driver, the engine would self destruct in seconds.

Maybe when the clutch was "done" 5 months ago, they forgot to tighten the bolts!

AGREE.
Problem is more likely with the clutch. If so, then you really stole it. Good luck. I would totally have bought that for the same price.
 
I hope that is all it is, other things known about the car is he had the head gaskets done, heads resurfaced, valve job. Every possible thing works on it even has ice cold A/C.

He also had new radiator put in the car, it doesn't have rear disc brakes like my 97 camaro though.

It is a low option car, has pwr windows/door locks/mirrors but that is it. No power seat or cruise control (I never use cruise anyways) Has 139k miles I drove it about a block and the 5 speed shifted pretty nice.

When it is idling and I lay under it, the noise is like a loud clanking sound. It is more louder towards back of motor but even bad in the transmission area. Motor idles surprisingly smooth considering. Would think if it did have a broken crank engine would be flopping around. I once had a 89 Camaro with a broken crank and it sounded like a jack hammer while it was running.

He had said when it first started depressing the clutch would make the noise go away, then it progressively got worse after driving it about 5 miles.

Here is it's engine BTW

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I am surprised with all the banging noises the knock sensor isn't going wild or missfires detected.

I have never done a 4th gen trans removal so may take time. I will let you all know what happens.

After trans is removed I will level engine and start just to make sure that was the only cause of the noise.
 
Try moving the crank in and out from the front of the engine. If it moves the problem is most likely is the thrust bearing...
 
Try moving the crank in and out from the front of the engine. If it moves the problem is most likely is the thrust bearing...

doesn't move a bit. when engine is running it seems to spin normally and the serpentine belt has no weird wear or out of alignment.
 
Try moving the crank in and out from the front of the engine. If it moves the problem is most likely is the thrust bearing...

Well I got a pry bar from a friend and yes the front crankshaft hub can be pulled out the equivalent of what the flywheel is moving.

What needs to be done now?
 
Try moving the crank in and out from the front of the engine. If it moves the problem is most likely is the thrust bearing...

Well I got a pry bar from a friend and yes the front crankshaft hub can be pulled out the equivalent of what the flywheel is moving.

What needs to be done now?

Drop pan and see who's home in the fore/aft bearing department....when you drop the pan, you should easy see who is home in the flywheel department also....

IF the crank is trashed, you need drop it out and fix that, BUT there is a chance that bearing can be changed and it makes me wonder why it failed....

:waxer::bonkers:
 
Well I got a pry bar from a friend and yes the front crankshaft hub can be pulled out the equivalent of what the flywheel is moving.

What needs to be done now?

I would think the 'bottom end' needs to be rebuilt. Rods and mains.
You will have to remove the crank to replace the thrust bearing might as well do the rest of the mains while you there. If you do the mains might as well do the rods... Unless the crank has started cutting the block.

Please note: This information comes from working on Big and Small block Chevy engines. I have no practical experience with the 3800 series engine.
 
Well I got a pry bar from a friend and yes the front crankshaft hub can be pulled out the equivalent of what the flywheel is moving.

What needs to be done now?

You can move the crank in and out a 1/4 inch? You have multiple big problems! If it takes a pry bar to move the crank and you can move the fly wheel with a screwdriver, sounds like you are going to find a pile of metal in the oil pan.
 
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