Battery cut-off and 1-wire alternator

big2bird said:
denpo said:
I got one of those to install on my project.
21p8koO%2BZyL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
Its sole purpose it to remove *ANY* electrical activity from the car when in storage.
My initial though was to put it between the + of the battery and the rest of the car.

After some research turns out when used with 1-wire alternator (like my 100a upgrade), you'd need a wiring like this one.

onoffswitch6kw.jpg

I don't get why you need to keep on powering the alternator.
Click to expand...

Denis. Put the switch immediately after the battery. It's for storage, not emergencies.
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Don't anyone spot a glaring error on that wiring diagram?? really??

for any GM starter, or Mopar ...really??:club:
 
fastcompany2 said:
don't use that switch. your diagram is right that you posted at the beginning but it will kill your battery. you need to use this switch. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 i don't know why they even sell other ones. this is the only truly safe one that wont kill your battery or hurt your alt. oh and if your worried about where to mount the switch what we always do is mount it where it is out of the way and hook a choke cable up to it so it can be switched off easy while the driver is strapped into the car.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Interesting.
I don't really visualize the choke cable thing though. I guess the switch is intented to be installed outside the car while still operable from the inside.
Right?
 
If all you want is safe storage then either of these work well. Been using them on everything including daily drivers for almost 20 years. I use them on the neg posts.
Even if I forget to turn it on after I sit down, I can reach around behind me, open the batt lid and turn the knob without getting up again.
Best ones are made by Gama in Illinois. Cheap too. :bestwishes:

http://www.gamainc.com/aac/

switch1.jpg

switch2.jpg
 
denpo said:
fastcompany2 said:
don't use that switch. your diagram is right that you posted at the beginning but it will kill your battery. you need to use this switch. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 i don't know why they even sell other ones. this is the only truly safe one that wont kill your battery or hurt your alt. oh and if your worried about where to mount the switch what we always do is mount it where it is out of the way and hook a choke cable up to it so it can be switched off easy while the driver is strapped into the car.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Interesting.
I don't really visualize the choke cable thing though. I guess the switch is intented to be installed outside the car while still operable from the inside.
Right?
Click to expand...

well the switches i install are on full out race cars. a corner worker at the track has to have access to the switch and so does the driver. so its either run 2 switches which is a total pain in the ass or you run one switch either outside for the corner worker or inside for the driver and hook the choke cable up to the switch so it can work in 2 places. and the other reason for the type of switch i posted is how it deals with the extra voltage thrown out by the alt. when the kill switch is thrown. even though your engine is shutting down its still spinning which means your alt. is still trying to produce power and with the kill switch off it can't go anywhere. this switch has a resistor hooked to it that grounds out the alt. excess voltage so you don't hurt it. and i am a firm believer on these older cars to put in a switch you can get to on the fly. the battery disconnect is cute for storage but if something catches fire while your driving being able to disconnect that power source sometimes means that you will still have your car or not ( seen that switch save a 246 dino ferrari before)
 
Last edited:
Guys, I own you a full truckload of apologies.
My alternator is not a 1-wire, it's a GM CS130.:blush::tomato::noob:
Gosh I feel bad wasting your time.
 
I've read a lot of commentary, for race cars, that argue opening the Negative Ground lead for total dump. It seems to make sense initially but I worry about the unexpected ground path we may invoke when not paying enough attention...
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
denpo said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
denpo said:
Guys, I own you a full truckload of apologies.
My alternator is not a 1-wire, it's a GM CS130.:blush::tomato::noob:
Gosh I feel bad wasting your time.
Click to expand...

they must call it something else in Canadian French :D
Click to expand...
osti d'cave.
Click to expand...

osti de cave

:cool:
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SBG you need to spend some time in Québec LOL
Den wrote it allright.
It's like saying ''I can't do that'' instead of ''I cannot do that.''
 
1Michel said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
denpo said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
denpo said:
Guys, I own you a full truckload of apologies.
My alternator is not a 1-wire, it's a GM CS130.:blush::tomato::noob:
Gosh I feel bad wasting your time.
Click to expand...

they must call it something else in Canadian French :D
Click to expand...
osti d'cave.
Click to expand...

osti de cave

:cool:
Click to expand...

SBG you need to spend some time in Québec LOL
Den wrote it allright.
It's like saying ''I can't do that'' instead of ''I cannot do that.''
Click to expand...

I would, but I'm afraid I'd have some guy in a Corvette trying to run me down :sos:
 
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