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#1331
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![]() Quote:
about the only thing I might do different if I built another would be use the C6 rear as well.... I didn't think there was enough room but there actually is - I heard someone had done it, but my tape measure said no.... having the extra footspace would be nice.... |
#1333
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![]() Quote:
clean ![]() and got the signals to work - bad LED flasher |
#1334
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![]() back to fuel leak... I'm not sure it's the sender....
![]() ![]() the sender.... but the non-capped line is a vent that I didn't put a hose clamp on.... hmmm ![]() this one ![]() it's a pain to get it on there - but I think that will be my first attempt to fix this ![]() then onto other stuff bad rubbers ![]() not bad, just too soft ![]() ![]() nice, solid poly ![]() I started here, then air hammered, then ended up using this for the second bushing...edited ![]() and clean ![]() thread lock stopped me.edited Need some to finish assembly... but close ![]() |
#1336
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![]() it wasn't tight, but I think the problem is just the pressure from the weight of the fuel
hopefully this fixed it ![]() In other news, the springs finally arrived but they sent the wrong ones.... smh.... and I found out that Speedway motors delivery guarantee is pretty much worthless... |
#1337
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![]() and more knocked off the list..
the list ![]() for those who forgot what the dash looked like removed... ![]() squeeky clutch ... hmmmm I didn't think it was possible... but here's the problem... they put the bell arm in backwards.edited But I don't think it was the PO, or at least not his fault... it's made backwards ![]() first clue was the zert fitting... it wasn't installed - it's usually on the top, but it wasn't.. ![]() thing was, the ring that holds the cup (frame side) was machined into the wrong end. Add to that the hole for the zert was on the bottom.... turning it around solved all its issues.edited Now it can be lubed. I punted on the clip ring - I reduced weight.edited One clip ring now the clutch works correctly, the difference is one arm is longer then the other - thus in the Corvette, where you don't have as much pedal travel as the truck, it won't work Worst, it sticks to the top of the hole in the firewall. now it doesn't In other news, and not on that list.. noise and a way to test it ![]() 105db at 50 feet and 50 mph.... it idles at 100 db..... hmmm |
#1338
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![]() forgot to mention.editededited
Fixed the throttle and have dual springs.edited I've had terrible luck with Lokar and similar 'aftermarket' throttle cables - sometimes stock is the right answer... rarely, but sometimes ![]() |
#1339
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![]() in good news, the other diff arrived.edited While more work, it should make me quite a bit faster
![]() the hole gave me a discount, otherwise it's in better shape then the one I got from the people I bought the rest of the cradle from ![]() and for those curious... this differential - I'll probably regear it but if not, I may use it under the Sledanet drain ![]() start removing bits...... I took this a lot further apart because I need to put the poly joints in the last two points ![]() ![]() old cover on new diff ![]() I actually have a cooled cover coming (dirt cheap, brand new) but it won't be here until Friday and I want to use this on Sunday so if I wait, I won't have time to reassemble in time ![]() picture to remember how the spacers go ![]() and then.... hmm ![]() installing was a lot easier then taking the old one out ![]() and... there is conflicting information about whether or not to use friction modifier.edited GM says use it.edited Given the wear in the other with the little bit I've used it (and the noise) -edited I'd say GM was right - when I put this together Mobil 1 said it wasn't necessary. ![]() |
#1341
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![]() onward
dust shields are more harm then benefit with what I'm doing ![]() it's almost like GM expected people to cut them off ![]() springs, finally the right ones ![]() time to make adjusting easier ![]() and yes, there is anti-seize everywhere ![]() ![]() ![]() on to the front ![]() I should have bought 9" springs.. ah well ![]() now to reset everything.edited Need to realign, reweigh.... how much of that happens before I beat on it Sunday? dunno ![]() |
#1342
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#1343
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![]() Quote:
The bell arm has 2 different length arms on it. The long arm side was attached to rod that goes to the pedal. The shorter arm is the one that should have been attached to it. Basically someone welded it together wrong. Odds are yours is too.... how do I know? I spent more than a few days maintaining our shop trucks growing up - all were manual. All had that zert on the top of the bell crank. So I took a chance, I took it apart, turn the arm around (so the long part goes to the clutch fork).... and now the clutch works perfectly (and no squeaking). I bet someone at GM never realized the that because you could easily weld that together either way and it would work.... the right way to do what I did would be to reweld those arms on the opposite side... but who has time for that? ![]() |
#1344
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![]() confession time, I never even thought that the fuel push rod needed to stay in place when I eliminated the fuel pump.....edited Had I even thought it through a little bit, I'd have realized that the rod still needs to be in there to limit oil flow
thankfully sbc/bbc is the same diameter. I am impressed I found it in my piles of treasure ![]() heat plug, pull plug, insert rod, reassemble. ![]() also adjusted the valves, set the tire pressure to 45 psi, then scaled it (I swapped springs) - and it was close enoughedited tomorrow, or day after, video of the festivities. |
#1345
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![]() hmmm - Please smarten me up!
Can you explain why the fuel push rod needs to be in place when you remove the (mechanical) fuel pump? That is the one on the engine - right? I am getting ready to remove and block off mine too - maybe not... Is it an "oil-thing," or hiding something else in place internally? Glad you found it. I'd be still looking. Thanks and, Cheers - Jim
__________________
Rebuilder's Zen Saying: One thought leads to another. If these thoughts link into a chain we become bound to the project. This bondage is subtle and remains until we complete the tasks -- or, STOP Thinking! [Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...] |
#1346
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#1347
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![]() So another day of autocross... this time a 'high speed' track.... new issues to overcome. As I mentioned, the oil solution wasn't... so back to my plan of running 30w.
In other news, running rich fouls plugs... yeah, not news Starting to dial in suspension stuff - need to change the front springs again to a shorter spring (don't worry folks, I have lots of uses for coil over springs - so backstock really isn't a big deal at all)... need to put a bit more altitude in the rear then figure out why I go from neutral to understeer - I think tire pressure and shock settings can help but I'm going to have to go back to my suspension geometry books to relearn. High speed means I got nearly to 100 mph - that was a lot of fun. Best part is I met several people very local to me who gave me lots of great feedback... My 'new' issue is I got warm waiting in line - that might be part of a high idle issue that I solved (and didn't get nearly as warm the next time - 3 sessions of 4 runs each), but it's still something I need to focus on because it only gets warmer from here. I may also have to admit I'm a "Corvette guy" - it was internally humorous to me that the first Ax - everyone would see my Corvette and be sure to let me know of other Corvette guys around.... I never realized it was a club... but then today one of the people that was really helpful had a friend show up who is dialing in his C3.... and I could help him... hmmm for those curious I was dead middle of the pack. Best time was 52s by a Tesla and last was 1:12.... I started at 1:08, and progressed to 1:00.5 (which, for some reason annoyed me) |
#1349
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![]() Quote:
In other news, the clutch works perfect. I wonder how many people have been fighting the squeaking issue and never realized that the clutch feels wrong.... |
#1350
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![]() Quote:
I'm halfway through construction of an aluminum replacement for the stock clutch bellcrank, but I've found that my spare bellcrank that I was going to use to configure my welding jig is an early C2 unit, which has a different angle between the two arms. |
#1352
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![]() Quote:
I don't really even care how or why GM got it wrong, maybe the guy assembling it got in a fight with his wife, and she loves manuals (or Manuels) and he got his revenge in the most petty way possible. Maybe he just hated those guys who could shift their own cars. dunno, the 70s were, I hear, a wild time. The problem is the lower needs the longer arm - and by spinning the Z-bar 180 degrees on my car: - I rid myself of that squeak in the video (and now the rod does line up with the hole) - I get far better clutch feel - I get better disengagement of the clutch because rather then the clutch pedal traveling the farthest, the arm travels the greatest distance. I the concept of agreeing to disagree - but my fix worked. Not sort of worked, not half worked, but totally fixed the problem, worked. I'll even post video of Ax from yesterday to show the problem is gone.... there's no 'difference of opinion here' except maybe where the zert should be but that has no bearing on why I did what I did (it was a nice bonus that it doesn't hit my sidepipes), said what I did, and that I enjoy that it works.... Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 04-12-2021 at 09:40 PM.. |
#1353
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![]() [quote=SuperBuickGuy;134925]I must be getting old but I am in love with my LS1, as i dream about cars the LS series is all i am think about.....factory engineered, lots of power right from the start. thats a really hard combination to beat. it doesnt have the pedigree as you said but reliability, solid engineering and lots of power does have its place.
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#1354
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![]() [quote=bobs77vet;134929]
Quote:
*actually, I had 2 BB 67 Camaros (not factory), and thought they were dogs. But I didn't put either motor together, and (love my dad to pieces) but he was known for trying to detune what I built because my mom browbeat him... now that I've built this 427 he's been a huge fan because it's out of my mom's jurisdiction. Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 04-13-2021 at 05:02 AM.. |
#1355
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![]() plugs
![]() I was getting smoke the moment I got on the throttle... initially, I thought the brake fluid was leaking onto the headers... maybe a bit...edited ![]() lord are these things crap.edited I thought I could get another set (a whole $50) then fix them.... pretty sure the answer is a resounding no ![]() the smoke but I think the oil leak contributed.edited The other side is dry and fine. ![]() thankfully it's easy to change ![]() and ramps ... tomorrow ![]() oh, and tested today.... 111db at 50' and 6000 rpm... I'd love ideas on how to quiet it without corking it (or losing the sidepipes).... my initial thought is Supertrap disks... Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 04-13-2021 at 05:08 AM.. |
#1356
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![]() to be clear about a few things.
1) I drink the GM Koolaid but don't think they're perfect 2) I love the LS motor, fact is my goal with the 64 Buick wagon is to tow my Corvette with it (and it's powered by a 6.0 LS motor.) 3) I know Manuel, he's a great guy but a bit shifty. and in the effort to modernize the BB, next up is a coil-on-plug set up [Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...] and port injection I'm also going to send the Chinesium heads packing when the funds become available (and might build another 427 based on a Dart block).... future plans. Not giving up on my idea. Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 04-13-2021 at 05:07 AM.. |
#1357
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![]() Quote:
![]() I've also been thinking along these lines too: ![]() Cheers - Jim |
#1358
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![]() Quote:
what is it at idle up to say 2500 rpm? thats really when you will be going from standing still to moving, 111 db at 50 and 6000 rpm can only last for fraction of a second when its moving. what is the state regulations? and what is is inside the cabin at 6000 rpm? my son took my 69 with side pipes to the ice cream shop parked out front got his ice cream, ate it then went back to the car and started it up and made the little kids cry, the dads were all laughing and he was apologizing.... |
#1359
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![]() Quote:
__________________
Pappy |
#1360
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![]() Quote:
Last edited by mfain; 04-13-2021 at 06:05 PM.. |
#1361
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![]() [quote=mfain;134935][quote=bobs77vet;134934]
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#1362
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#1363
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![]() I did spirals in my last C3, didn't get any significant reduction. The only thing that worked was quiet inserts - but those KILL power, I still have them around. I couldn't stand them so I went back to the other inserts - and then cut one apart to see why. It is NOT free flowing.... I'll dig it out for a picture...
as to the cone (vortex) and spirals.... this guy tested
the tl;dr is neither helped. there is a follow up video that I haven't yet watched where he makes his own mufflers.. and I'm operating on any track I want to run at limits to 105db (and my test was static so it would reduce a bit at 50 mph - which is the test speed) Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 04-13-2021 at 07:22 PM.. |
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