Rear Trailing arm bolt

00fxd

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Mar 25, 2008
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549
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Western Canada
About to drop my body back on my '65. Does the rear trailing arm bolt insert from the outside of the frame or the inside? I'm sure it is installed from the outside but my friend who used to work at a Corvette shop disagrees...
Thanks,
Frank
 
About to drop my body back on my '65. Does the rear trailing arm bolt insert from the outside of the frame or the inside? I'm sure it is installed from the outside but my friend who used to work at a Corvette shop disagrees...
Thanks,
Frank

Your friend is correct, the bolt is inserted from the inside, the nut is on the outside.
 
About to drop my body back on my '65. Does the rear trailing arm bolt insert from the outside of the frame or the inside? I'm sure it is installed from the outside but my friend who used to work at a Corvette shop disagrees...
Thanks,
Frank

Your friend is correct, the bolt is inserted from the inside, the nut is on the outside.

Snicker....SUPPOSED to be, that is....:hissyfit::bonkers::flash:
 
Not just supposed to be.... if you insert it from the outside you won't be able to get it out once the body is on. You would have to cut the bolts next time you want to remove the arms - maybe 20 years from now....

Access to the nut is easier when it's on the outboard side. If the nut is on the inboard side the alignment guys might not be very happy...

2148eb437865c54.jpg
 
Not just supposed to be.... if you insert it from the outside you won't be able to get it out once the body is on. You would have to cut the bolts next time you want to remove the arms - maybe 20 years from now....

Access to the nut is easier when it's on the outboard side. If the nut is on the inboard side the alignment guys might not be very happy...

2148eb437865c54.jpg

If it's 20 before he removes that bolt again he will probably have to cut it anyways.:pprrtt:

It would really suck getting to the nut and cotter pin if you put it in from the outside though.
 
About to drop my body back on my '65. Does the rear trailing arm bolt insert from the outside of the frame or the inside? I'm sure it is installed from the outside but my friend who used to work at a Corvette shop disagrees...
Thanks,
Frank

Just a note..on all mid-years and the early C-3's, (non-NCRS types) we modify the frame to accept a long cotter pin to utilize the slotted alignment shims. It is easier to do now, with the body off. Your alignment guy will thank you.
 
Thanks again fellas, I knew that there was a body interference issue. I'm going out to correct it right now..
 
A little off topic, but

If you bugger your trailing arm bolt, where're you going to get another one?
The two bolts that mount the differential front nose to the crossmember bracket are the same. Use these bolts and then just replace them with generic bolts.

The repro bolts are not the same, their shank is excessively threaded so the threads will eat into the frame.
 
Good hint.
There, bolts all fixed in the correct orientation.
Now for an uneventful body drop tomorrow....
 
If it's 20 before he removes that bolt again he will probably have to cut it anyways.:pprrtt:

It would really suck getting to the nut and cotter pin if you put it in from the outside though.

I always try to remember ( I suffer from crs) to put a good coating of anti-sieze on things that have a propensity to not want to come back apart at a later date.
 
Just a note..on all mid-years and the early C-3's, (non-NCRS types) we modify the frame to accept a long cotter pin to utilize the slotted alignment shims. It is easier to do now, with the body off. Your alignment guy will thank you.

Could you please elaborate on the modification you are referring to? Don't all the mid year cars have a hole in the frame for the long cotter pin? I had no problem putting one through both my 69 and 79 ss slotted shims in rebuilding them. I have considered another option to the cotter pin, but never saw a need to modify the frame. Thanks!
 
My '79 has the holes for the long cotter pins. I think they used the alignment shims with holes instead of slots on earlier C3s, no idea when that changed...
 
My '79 has the holes for the long cotter pins. I think they used the alignment shims with holes instead of slots on earlier C3s, no idea when that changed...

I wanna say '65-66? it changed due to many complaints from alignment guys...

I wonder if SS bolts wouldn't be better, really, just modify a longer bolt, or stack some washers on the extra length, bolt it home and SS will not stick toooo badly to the steel.....I get lazy as hell, and use good wheel bearing grease to reduce rust....another one is a layer of RTV, my favorite sealer for anything....

;)
 
Just a note..on all mid-years and the early C-3's, (non-NCRS types) we modify the frame to accept a long cotter pin to utilize the slotted alignment shims. It is easier to do now, with the body off. Your alignment guy will thank you.

Could you please elaborate on the modification you are referring to? Don't all the mid year cars have a hole in the frame for the long cotter pin? I had no problem putting one through both my 69 and 79 ss slotted shims in rebuilding them. I have considered another option to the cotter pin, but never saw a need to modify the frame. Thanks!

No cotter pins used prior to about 1970, IIRC. Previous to that, double holed (not slotted) shims were used. A total PITA if you didn't set it up correctly from the get-go. If you see a cotter pin prior to about 1970, someone modded the frame. I use a long (12 inch) drill bit, 1/4 diameter to make the mod. Drop in a slotted shim and use the hole end of the shim to locate where to drill. Yes, it's a PITA, but worth the effort.

P.S. If you use slotted shims without cotter pinning them, you will lose some shims!
 
Big G has a great tip! I have a '68 and lost the shims on one side and it was scary! Long slow drive home and it you made any changes to power it would dart around!
 
Big G has a great tip! I have a '68 and lost the shims on one side and it was scary! Long slow drive home and it you made any changes to power it would dart around!

YEUP, no question...like another place to use locktite is those bolts holding that lower rod support brace to the Diffy.....I had the last bolt come out on me on the freeway, drove it that way with the support brace just flapping on the exhaust system, the rear end wanted to sway like a mother....

I got home and found it with a glance....cleaned it all up, and Locktite RED with lockwashers....fail NOW, bitch.....

:eek::censored::censored::hissyfit:
 
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