Tranny Mate/Clutch Disk Install Problems.

68/70Vette

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Argggh!

Any helpful hints? The engine is setting in a frame. The motor mounts are installed and I'm holding up the other end of the engine with a floor jack. I'm having trouble getting the tranny input shaft to slide into the clutch disks.

The BB engine has the standard flywheel and a twin-disk McLeod clutch. The twin disks are 26 spline. The bellhousing is a Lakewood unit. The tranny is a 91 lb Richmond 5 speed. I do have some long bolts connecting the tranny to the bellhousing just to try to get alignment help. I have a floor jack supporting the tranny. Trying to get the engine and tranny both level and pushing the tranny up against the clutch disk and slowly turning the output shaft of the tranny. No luck getting engaged. I used a plastic clutch alightment tool to align the pilot bearing and twin disks.

Anyone have any suggestions? It's shouldn't be so difficult. I've waisted a lot of time. I've been trying to do it myself. I plan to have someone help me today. Maybe this is a two man job!

I'm planning on buying a Richmond input shaft to use for a clutch alignment tool if not successful today. I used a Muncie input shaft to align the single disk, 10 spline, Centerforce disk on my 68, Had no troubles with that one.
 
Maybe a transmission jack? Doesn't seem like two guys, by hand, can control the input shaft position that accurately. If the bellhousing had a little window, things would be a lot easier.
 
Argggh!

. I used a plastic clutch alightment tool to align the pilot bearing and twin disks.


I'm planning on buying a Richmond input shaft to use for a clutch alignment tool if not successful today. I used a Muncie input shaft to align the single disk, 10 spline, Centerforce disk on my 68, Had no troubles with that one.


you answered your own question.....throw that plastic POS away and use an old input shaft...
 
Use a metal input shaft to align the discs.

Remove the alignment studs if you are using them.

Lock up the transmission by putting in reverse and another gear.

Use a big screwdriver or pry tool to move the clutch fork to release the clutch discs and hold the clutch fork in that position.

Install the transmission.

With the transmission locked up you can rotate it back and forth while you push it through the clutch discs. And with the clutch fork disengaging the discs they will align themselves on the input shaft as you push the transmission forward and into the pilot bushing.

Scott
 
Anyone know where I can get a used 26 spline GM type input shaft? I called up Richmond and they want $403 for the Richmond 5 speed input shaft. A little pricey for a clutch alignment tool.

I have a Muncie 10 spline input shaft. It's missing all it's gear teeth, but the splines are undistorted and so it's a great alignment tool. A similar 26 spline shaft would be fine. Don't need the teeth.

If I call transmission shops asking for GM type 26 spline shafts, did another tranny use them other than Richmond. Muncie? Thanks

I did find a Omix-Ada shaft, but they only make 10 splines apparently.
.............
My L88 clone engine and a 50 pound flywheel did the dental work on the Muncie shaft.
 
I've only done this once but I had no problem whatsoever using the plastic alignment tool. I did not have a helper at the time and I thought it really was a piece of cake ... Maybe I was lucky ???
 
GM V8 T5 had a 26 spline input shaft.

I have never had that many problems with the plastic alignment tools. I use a small ruler to measure the alignment tool to the pressure plate finger when I am lining it up to help make sure it is centered. Then on the couple occasions that it didn't line up I put it in as far as it would go, start the bolts and run them up finger tight, then have someone press the clutch pedal while I push the transmission in the rest of the way.
 
I bought a new Muncie M22 26 spline input shaft on ebay for $105. I'd be pretty sure it was made in China. The Richmond gear equivalent for their 5 speed in $405.

I used the plastic alignment tool supplied by McLeod (it's the same generic thing you can see in Summit, etc.) The plastic tool would slide in and out with no problem. When I tried to stick in my Muncie 22 26 spline shaft, it wouldn't go in. I had to loosen the clutch, insert the real input shaft, and tighten the clutch again. The Muncie 26 spline shaft now inserts easily. I've since bought a transmission jack.
I will be using a GM aluminum cast bellhousing instead of the Lakewood steel scattershield. The Lakewood has such a sloppy fit. I'm now going to use my GM 3899621 cast aluminum bellhousing. It is really a tight fit to the engine, not like the Lakewood. Before using the ...621 bellhousing, I was going to use a GM 3858403 cast aluminum bellhousing. The ...403 looks exactely like the 621 at first glance. However I have a Keith Black big block crankcase with a GM ministarter on it. the ...403 will not mount up with the ministarter. The ..621 will mount up with the ministarter in place. Interesting, the 621 is such a tight fit to the Keith Black block, I have to use a rubber hammer to mate it up. (There's no interference problem with the ministarter in this rubber hammer session.)
 
I usually have someone press on the clutch pedal and I rotate the yoke with trans in gear. This allows splines to align.
 
Mated up the Richmond last weekend. Using an engine hoist, I lofted the engine up to where the crank was approximately parallel to the ground. (This is a engine on a frame situation - no body). Used the transmission jack to loft the tranny up into a likewise parallel to the ground. This is a $149 Harbor Freight jack. It has adjustment cranks to maneuver the tranny in pitch and roll. Before attempting to install the tranny, I used my 26 spline Muncie input shaft to verify clutch disk alignment. I removed the input shaft, and eyeballed up the Richmond input shaft to the clurch spline holes best as I could. Shoved her in, jiggled it about, and I got the tranny up to about 1/2 inch to the bellhousing. Close enough to know that I was through the twin disks (McLeod twin disk clutch). At this distance, I'm sure I was a little bit into the pilot bearing in the crank. Then no matter how much I pushed the tranny wouldn't go in. I got some 7/16 by 14 bolts, 2 inches long, bolted hand tight the tranny to the bellhousing and began tightening. I was concerned. The ..626 cast aluminum bellhousing is pretty thin walled. I didn't want to strip its threads or worse..crack it. The 626 is pretty much mint and I didn't want to damage it. Luckily, the tightening up the bolts gradually moved the tranny into a full mate position. So, job finished!!!! PS, the Richmond 5 speed has never been used. I bought it 20 years ago.
 
I forget which car is was, but long ago I just left the pressure plate bolts loose enough the disc would slide around easy shoved it home, tightened the bolts, all was fine....

:rain:
 
When the engine is in the car, it is difficult to align the input shaft when the engine is on a downward angle. As you push the transmission forward while on a jack, the angle with the engine changes in relation to the input shaft. To counter this, cut the hex heads off four trans mount bolts (six inches) and use as alignment pins. Once you get it started, just push the trans forward and the bolts will keep the input shaft aligned. If the spline holds you up, jiggle the output shaft a little and it should slide through (it must be in gear). This also helps if there is a problem knocking the throwout bearing off the fork on assembly. Remove the pins and replace with proper mounting bolts one by one. Raise the motor and trans and replace the cross member.
 
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......... To counter this, cut the hex heads off four trans mount bolts (six inches) and use as alignment pins. Once you get it started, just push the trans forward and the bolts will keep the input shaft aligned. .... Raise the motor and trans and replace the cross member.

If I do this with the engine in place (hanging down) i'll try this. Especially get some long bolts that are only threaded at the extreme ends, and then wack their heads off.

"replace the cross member" I could only wish. I've since posted a thread asking if someone can help me get started with a removeable crossmember.
 
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