Front Monospring install problem

BlackBetty

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
91
Location
Alabama
For some reason I bolted the spring up to the aluminum block mounts on the lower control arms and the spring is touching the engine cradle in the middle and the ends are touching the bottom of the shocks. I havent even tightened the 8" bolts up yet. I have it set on next to stiffest hole.I have tightened the ball joints to specs, but I havent shimmed and bolted the upper control arms. I couldnt find the torque specs on the front shocks either. Anyone got a guess?
 
It's not uncommon that it touches the crossmember, it's also pretty close to the shocks when the suspension is drooping. As soon as you put it on the wheels it will pull away.

Your upper arms may be the reason for the lower arm to angle down under droop enough to touch the spring.

Just pull the shocks tight, I never bother to torque stuff like that...ever

24961ddc40db1b.jpg
 
While you down there you may as well start at the softest setting, Mine is pretty stiff. Small block.
Frank
 
This ls aluminum block probably will need a softer setting. Good point. I installed the 8" right height adjustment bolts upside down. I didnt like the fact that once adjusted you would have 2+ inches of thread hanging down. Also about the 8 bolts that mount the spring to the aluminum blocks-They kinda make me nervous. ha. I guess they are fine with thread locker and a lock washer.
 
This just cant be right. ha. I mean it is completely pressed against the cross member when I tighten down on the aluminum 4 bolt plates. Before I even finish tightening it down its pressed against the cross member. Im almost thinking I should get a B.A. hammer and smack the cross member for some clearance. Seems like it could damage the spring or put stress on it. Maybe im wrong.
This pic is with the plates completely tight.
DSC01719.jpg

not completely tight
DSC01721.jpg
only a few threads started and already touching the cross member
DSC01722.jpg
 
I really can't see how that spring could be in there upside down....but it's looking that a ways from the pix.....if you flipped it over...what happens???

gott be something like that, makes no sense otherwise....

I also look at that and the spring takes another ~~2" on the lower support, I know the pan and even my/other racks take up that much room, but it's now the leading edge there....

:bonkers::hunter:
 
Im positive its in there correctly. It seems to me that the mounting blocks on the LCAs are too high. A half inch to an inch lower and I dont think the middle of the spring would hit, but such is not the case.
 
Im positive its in there correctly. It seems to me that the mounting blocks on the LCAs are too high. A half inch to an inch lower and I dont think the middle of the spring would hit, but such is not the case.

:bonkers::goodnight: Sorry, outta ideas....best of luck....
someone be along who has one of these kits maybe spot something, for sure...
 
It's hitting because the suspension is drooping, once the car is on it's wheels it will be fine. This was most likely done this way to retain max. ground clearance. It's really a non issue.
 
It's hitting because the suspension is drooping, once the car is on it's wheels it will be fine. This was most likely done this way to retain max. ground clearance. It's really a non issue.

:rofl:Now that you say it, I see it....

but that means ever time you jack the car up, that center hits the thwart....

not a good thing??

or don't matter??

:bonkers:
 
I have a front monoleaf spring from VBP and it does the same thing when I jack my car up. TT is right, when you put weight on the wheels it pulls away from the frame and should not be an issue. I've had mine on now for 10 yrs and its still in great shape.
 
Here's what it looks like setting on wheels with no engine or tranny. I have about 3/8" btwn spring and frame. You'll be all right.

fntsusp.jpg
 
The stiffer you go. The further the spring gets away from the mounting pad. Everyone Ive seen is running the 1st or 2nd hole(softest) so that leaves a little more space. It would be a stretch to mount it on the stiffest settings on my car. Im gonna try it tonight just to see how difficult it is. I dont think I will be able to even get a bolt started.
 
The stiffer you go. The further the spring gets away from the mounting pad. Everyone Ive seen is running the 1st or 2nd hole(softest) so that leaves a little more space. It would be a stretch to mount it on the stiffest settings on my car. Im gonna try it tonight just to see how difficult it is. I dont think I will be able to even get a bolt started.

I'm running it in the 3rd hole without any issues. Thinking about going to the stiffest setting this spring.
 
It's hitting because the suspension is drooping, once the car is on it's wheels it will be fine. This was most likely done this way to retain max. ground clearance. It's really a non issue.

Correct. I have this setup on my 72 smallblock. You have installed it correctly. I have the VBP Aarms as well. Once it is on the ground all will be fine, I believe. Please let us know how thngs work out.
 
I'm running it in the 3rd hole without any issues. Thinking about going to the stiffest setting this spring.


White76, since you posted this I've been wondering if there a varience in supplied springs. Mine is so stiff even at the softest setting. I'm considering changing my shocks from Bilstien 'Sports' to the other softer bilstiens.
 
I'm running it in the 3rd hole without any issues. Thinking about going to the stiffest setting this spring.


White76, since you posted this I've been wondering if there a varience in supplied springs. Mine is so stiff even at the softest setting. I'm considering changing my shocks from Bilstien 'Sports' to the other softer bilstiens.

What I found out after a lot of trial and error, was that the spring rate had less to do with the harsh ride as the swaybars/shocks I first chose to use.

Are you still using the 1 1/8" and 3/4" that came with the kit? If so you might want to disconnect the bars temporarily and drive around a litte to see if they are the reason for the hard ride before paying for new shocks. My ride quality improved dramatically when I swapped them out for smaller bars.

I didn't buy VBP's kit complete so I never did try their Bilstiens, so I can't comment on the difference between the Sports and HD's. I did try their Extreme Bilstiens and they are too stiff for the street. That was many years ago .... live and learn.
 
Maybe I'll dissconnect the shocks and see if theres any more bonce. I think I did that when I installed the spring a couple of years ago.......
 
So I got the body back on this weekend. Full running gear, full of fluids, still touching the crossmember. What gives? Its a 2004 genIII LS style motor and t56 trans. Maybe its too light to pull the spring down?
 
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