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  #11  
Old 12-21-2008, 12:23 AM
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Twin_Turbo Twin_Turbo is offline
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I do something similar, the front hinge bolt holes, the floor seat belt attachments and the belt attachments on the hoop. !
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2008, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by big2bird View Post
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Originally Posted by porchdog View Post
i lift at the door jamb. 2 pieces of 3' chain and 4 s hooks and a union. i NEVER lift by hand. you risk popping the joints at the fender well. this is the safest way i know .
Without bracing that door opening, that would scare the hell outa me.
Thats what I was thinking - about the door opening, thats why I would be leaving the doors on. I also plan to leave the front end on and just do the old frame switcharoo. How about sliding some timber across underneath at those points, having 4 good men lifting there and have 2 at the back bumpers [I believe that the back bumpers can remain on the body?] for support. And 2 supporting the front end. Is this a plan? Thanks all, Frank.
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2008, 01:48 AM
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the early bodys are not that heavy. these are the strongest areas of the body and there is no risk of popping the fenders. this was the recommended way we were shown in a class for gm back in the early 70's. the 62 i just finished was brought to me on a jig and had all 4 fenders popped from hand lifting .
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2008, 02:14 PM
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big2bird big2bird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00fxd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by big2bird View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by porchdog View Post
i lift at the door jamb. 2 pieces of 3' chain and 4 s hooks and a union. i NEVER lift by hand. you risk popping the joints at the fender well. this is the safest way i know .
Without bracing that door opening, that would scare the hell outa me.
Thats what I was thinking - about the door opening, thats why I would be leaving the doors on. I also plan to leave the front end on and just do the old frame switcharoo. How about sliding some timber across underneath at those points, having 4 good men lifting there and have 2 at the back bumpers [I believe that the back bumpers can remain on the body?] for support. And 2 supporting the front end. Is this a plan? Thanks all, Frank.
When I pull a vert with the doors off, I make a brace, and tie the top door hinge to the door latch. Keeps it rigid. Verts without doors tend to sag from the weight. I have some pics pulling a 55 T-Bird around here somewhere.
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  #15  
Old 12-29-2008, 04:53 PM
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racervette69 racervette69 is offline
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does anyone have photos using a cherry picker? Got to do my 63 sometime.
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  #16  
Old 12-29-2008, 05:05 PM
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mrvette mrvette is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big2bird View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00fxd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by big2bird View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by porchdog View Post
i lift at the door jamb. 2 pieces of 3' chain and 4 s hooks and a union. i NEVER lift by hand. you risk popping the joints at the fender well. this is the safest way i know .
Without bracing that door opening, that would scare the hell outa me.
Thats what I was thinking - about the door opening, thats why I would be leaving the doors on. I also plan to leave the front end on and just do the old frame switcharoo. How about sliding some timber across underneath at those points, having 4 good men lifting there and have 2 at the back bumpers [I believe that the back bumpers can remain on the body?] for support. And 2 supporting the front end. Is this a plan? Thanks all, Frank.
When I pull a vert with the doors off, I make a brace, and tie the top door hinge to the door latch. Keeps it rigid. Verts without doors tend to sag from the weight. I have some pics pulling a 55 T-Bird around here somewhere.
I forgot to mention that....pay attention to Bird man there......

on a hardtop/coupe it's not a problem, only on rag tops.....

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