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Old 02-22-2016, 11:08 PM
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Default C-5 master cyl ???

thinking of converting a C-5 master for use on my manual brake C-3 vintage racer, anyone done it? anyone have a measurement from say the center line of the master cyl/piston to the top of the cap? I would appreciate it, I`m going to build a push rod guide of sorts so the push rod can`t fall out of the piston or build a new piston that will allow a deeper hole in the piston, the problem there might be getting the new piston anodized....thoughts anyone? and thanks in advance!
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:53 AM
Grampy Grampy is offline
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Default should work in a C2 as well

I am also interested in getting rid of 10 lb of cast iron master cylinder. Doing a search it looks like TT had a lot of specific knowledge on the swap and the push rod problems associated with the C5 MS in a manual brake application, maybe he can jump in and add a little more detail.

It might be possible to increase the depth of the push rod cavity bore to approximate that in the C3 manual MC. I don't have a cross section assembly drawing to be sure but if there are MC pistons sitting on a bench maybe we could get some measurements. Just looking at the part it would seem that there would be adequate length in the piston. Also if the bore can be extended I don't think anodizing is much of an issue as the push rod cavity surface isn't wetted.

Grampy
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:54 AM
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You remember this post, right?
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:55 PM
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disassembled C-5 master cyl here, as you can see for some reason they neck down the piston right where a deeper pushrod hole would be.

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Old 02-24-2016, 12:17 AM
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Why not just go with a Wilwood?



It's so easy.
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:05 PM
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Push rod drops out of piston! Yes, that would ruin a persons day.

Can't you limit the pedal or change the pedal spring rate? Or, use a heim joint on the piston (direct connect).

Not real familiar with it, just thinking of alternatives.
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Old 02-24-2016, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redvetracr View Post
thinking of converting a C-5 master for use on my manual brake C-3 vintage racer, anyone done it? anyone have a measurement from say the center line of the master cyl/piston to the top of the cap? From the bore center to the top of the cap is 5 1/4. This is at the back of the reservoir. I would appreciate it, I`m going to build a push rod guide of sorts so the push rod can`t fall out of the piston or build a new piston that will allow a deeper hole in the piston, the problem there might be getting the new piston anodized....thoughts anyone? and thanks in advance! I have .03 clearance between the piston and the pushrod so the rod can't come out. Also, I don't recall what I did but you could put a bushing or plate with a hole in it that would keep the rod co-axial with the bore.
Howard, my answers in red
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:46 PM
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Howard, my answers in red[/quote]


thanks Larry, do you run a booster?
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:55 PM
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Yes, that is with a booster.

The Wilwood cylinder looks interesting.
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:02 AM
Grampy Grampy is offline
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Default extend the push rod bore

Just a thought. In looking at the photos of the disassembled C5 MC there seems to be enough meat in the primary piston to have a bore deep enough to ensure the push rod will not fall out. Clearance between the push rod and the primary piston only needs to be about 1/8 inch. The primary piston fully retracted has a snap ring stop and the vent ports are open. My assumption is the hydraulic assembly retracts as fast as the return spring/pedal assembly. A spongy pedal might alter that.

To prevent separation it looks like a short thin wall tube maybe 1-2 inches long, 5/8 - 1/2 inch ID and OD small enough to clear the snap ring could be interference fit in a short counter bore in the primary piston to prevent fall out. The side load on the tube if it was ever used would only be a few pounds. Smooth the transition between tube bore and push rod pocket.
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