AN Fitting help

vette427sbc

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Sep 25, 2008
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This is my first time using AN stuff so I would like an opinion on how this connection looks. The tape was right up to the bottom of the fitting before I screwed in the blue piece. I had the hose right up to the bottom of the threads on the red piece. I tried a few times and this was the best I could get it to stay. Does this look like enough movement to not have to worry? It is -10 for my oil cooler.
2b42d2d3.jpg
 
You can make a connector to air pressure test those hoses pretty easily. And for any liquid connection, I'd recommend doing so. Put a plug in one end, adapt an air fitting to the other, and start dialing up the pressure.

Connection looks pretty good - I'd still want to pressure check it. Looks like it may have pushed out just a touch, but no leak under pressure, it's good.
 
That looks good but testing it sounds like a good idea, just to be safe.
 
I have done a bunch of those recently.

They way I did it was:
- put some tape over the place you want to cut. Cut in the middle through it, so there's tape on both ends of hose.
- Put the red socket on the hose and some 5-point socket over that with a ratchet and push and turn at the same time, untill the hose is past the last cone thread in there.
- Put oil on the blue part that goes in the tube, press it in and fasten it untill tight.

Don't forget to flush it, especially when it's an oil line. (depending on the way you cut the hose). I used a special cutoff wheel, went fine, but cause a lot of dust inside the tube.

Done.
 
Do you leave the tape on after cutting? NEVER leave the tape on the hose. It will make it come apart easier as the taoe wil float on the braid. Some braided hose tends to expand the braid making it a PITA to assemble, the trick I use i just to be quick. I too use a large ratchet wrench with a hex socket for the part that slips over the hose. Set the ratchet to counter clockwise an then push and turn. Most quality fittings have coatse threads in there to help get the hose in, it does in all the way up to where the front part screws in.
 
read this:

http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp12a.htm


Step 1
Cut the hose squarely to length using a Cut-off Machine or a very fine tooth hacksaw. To minimize wire braid flare out, wrap hose with glass filament strapping tape. Do not remove tape until ready for step 2.


Step 2
Remove tape and then quickly insert hose into the socket. Insert hose with a twisting, pushing motion until hose is in line with back of socket threads. Using our Koul Tools makes this step much easier.


Step 3
Important: Mark position around hose at rear of socket with a grease pencil, paint or tape.


Step 4
Lubricate inside of hose and nipple threads liberally using SAE 30 lubricating oil or Aeroquip Hose Assembly Lube.


Step 5
Insert nipple and engage threads while holding hose in position with other hand. Make sure hose does not push out of socket by observing mark made in step 3.


Step 6
Complete assembly using wrench while continuing to hold hose in position. Maximum allowable gap between socket hex and nipple hex is 0.031 inches.


Step 7
Important: Check hose for push out by observing hose position mark. None should be evident. Clean, proof test to twice operating pressure and inspect all assemblie
 
Last edited:
read this:

http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp12a.htm


Step 1
Cut the hose squarely to length using a Cut-off Machine or a very fine tooth hacksaw. To minimize wire braid flare out, wrap hose with glass filament strapping tape. Do not remove tape until ready for step 2.

wrapped in electrical tape, cut in the middle of the tape with fine tooth hacksaw


Step 2
Remove tape and then quickly insert hose into the socket. Insert hose with a twisting, pushing motion until hose is in line with back of socket threads. Using our Koul Tools makes this step much easier.

Exactly what I did


Step 3
Important: Mark position around hose at rear of socket with a grease pencil, paint or tape.

Tape.


Step 4
Lubricate inside of hose and nipple threads liberally using SAE 30 lubricating oil or Aeroquip Hose Assembly Lube.

Used 50wt engine oil liberally


Step 5
Insert nipple and engage threads while holding hose in position with other hand. Make sure hose does not push out of socket by observing mark made in step 3.

Check.


Step 6
Complete assembly using wrench while continuing to hold hose in position. Maximum allowable gap between socket hex and nipple hex is 0.031 inches.

Check.


Step 7
Important: Check hose for push out by observing hose position mark. None should be evident. Clean, proof test to twice operating pressure and inspect all assemblie

About 3/32nds pushed out

Ill find a way to pressure test it. Thanks guys :thumbs:

I got my oil cooler yesterday... Im going to put it behind the license plate so I can regulate the airflow on the street.
b7b9d0ac.jpg
 
Do you leave the tape on after cutting? NEVER leave the tape on the hose. It will make it come apart easier as the taoe wil float on the braid. Some braided hose tends to expand the braid making it a PITA to assemble, the trick I use i just to be quick. I too use a large ratchet wrench with a hex socket for the part that slips over the hose. Set the ratchet to counter clockwise an then push and turn. Most quality fittings have coatse threads in there to help get the hose in, it does in all the way up to where the front part screws in.

I used what was being said on earl's website. The braid starts to go out when trying to insert it in the fitting. PITA.

That's why I left it on. That hose gets squished real hard when inserting the rest of the fitting. The coarse thread is pretty cone like. I don't think it can get out. It ends up just inside the fitting. Will see what happens.
 
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