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  #21  
Old 08-08-2014, 09:14 PM
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I have a Dwyer that's pretty affordable. It's cool but I trust a Magahelic more. Maybe it's just an analog brain...

I never noticed a difference in the orientation of the gauge but I never looked for it either. It's a good observation to look out for. I'm an instrument guy and my life is "I measure things", I'll watch the Magnahelics in the future....Thanx
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  #22  
Old 09-07-2014, 03:13 PM
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some future planning for me is to add a splitter with an air dam,

I am using an LM1 to log multiple tuning points so I've thought of adding a couple MAP sensors to log pressures at different points up front.

Not sure if it will work but going to give it a try some day,

Neal
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  #23  
Old 09-17-2014, 12:16 PM
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69427- when you were working on the front grill openings, what ever happened? what did you end up doing. the idea of closing off the bottom & the right & left sides sounds like the right step, I was thinking of making a duct or ? to channel the air from the lic. plate grill to the rad. then air can not go anywere else. I did not know if this was something you already tried?

I have a 69 vette (blk on blk) that we are rebuilding the engine (70 ls6)
and like you I do not want to change the looks of the car. this is the best looking car chevy has ever made and changing the body would be a crime.

I have the big block hood and was also looking into opening up the fake grill
seems like anything would help. Now are we trying to get the air leaving the rad. to go out of the hood? could this be done by mod. the rad shroud?

Last edited by COLE SWEAT : 09-17-2014 at 12:18 PM.
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  #24  
Old 09-18-2014, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLE SWEAT View Post
69427- when you were working on the front grill openings, what ever happened? what did you end up doing. the idea of closing off the bottom & the right & left sides sounds like the right step, I was thinking of making a duct or ? to channel the air from the lic. plate grill to the rad. then air can not go anywere else. I did not know if this was something you already tried? I've just been trying to block out "excess" air (which I crudely define as any additional air entering the grills that isn't necessary to keep the radiator/coolant temp from getting hotter than I like) to minimize the amount of air trapped under the hood and that gets channeled under the floor. I've got both the side grills blocked off (with black plastic panels behind the grills), and the center grill about 70% covered (it's an odd, recessed shape, and 70% is about all I can do right now without spending a bunch of time fabricating a complex shape). I've also gotten the two under-grill openings about 50% blocked off. So far no cooling issues. I'm still trying to figure out which is better, taking in all the air from the center grill or taking it from the two under-grill openings.

I have a 69 vette (blk on blk) that we are rebuilding the engine (70 ls6)
and like you I do not want to change the looks of the car. this is the best looking car chevy has ever made and changing the body would be a crime. Yeah, I like the stock styling, and my thoughts have always been if a car starts looking too much like a race car it better have the speed to back up the looks when you're sharing the track with stock looking vehicles.

I have the big block hood and was also looking into opening up the fake grill
seems like anything would help. Now are we trying to get the air leaving the rad. to go out of the hood? could this be done by mod. the rad shroud?
It's been a crappy, busy summer for me, so I'm a bit behind schedule, but opening up the hood is on the schedule. It's a slight efficiency problem as the shroud and the hood dip are not in ideal positions relative to each other. I've currently got the shroud out and got an air deflector fabricated to direct the air from the upper portion of the radiator up to the hood opening (which I haven't got cut out yet). The rest of the air is going to have to exit out the louvers, wheel wells, or under the car.
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  #25  
Old 09-22-2014, 01:14 AM
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I saw this on the Duntov site. Makes sense, should work. Probably not something you would add if you want stock appearance.



Front Fender Louver Package

Where allowed, these louvers are just the ticket. Quoting from the SVRA General Rules and Regulations, Section 3, Vehicle Preparation, Sub Section K. General, Paragraph 4: "Louvers may be added for engine cooling." They not only aid cooling, they also add a margin of safety by helping keep the front end planted at high speeds. The louvers are carbon fiber and need to be installed using glass mat and epoxy resin, which we can supply. The louvers mount up and into the wind stream, and are open at the back. This aids evacuation of hot air from the engine compartment. The panels are flexible and can be formed to fit on the hood, fender or roof if you want air conditioning. Approx size: 20 X 8 inches. Weight: Close to nothing.
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  #26  
Old 09-23-2014, 01:43 AM
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I installed louver grills from a 65 BB. GM installed them on the side of the hood bulge. I installed them on the flat horizontal area next to the L-88 scoop. Homemade water deflectors attach to the valve covers below. I haven't tested yet as I just did the rough install last week.
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  #27  
Old 06-20-2017, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vette427sbc View Post
Just so were all on the same page here, this is my most recent cut to the hood vents:
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While my first cut that Jim pictured in post #2 probably had a greater low pressure zone at the vent, the newer opening should allow for more airflow, but likely has no low pressure zone.
I found some similar screen for my car, and am hoping to get around to installing it this summer, but I don't recall receiving a reply regarding what type of adhesive vette427sbc used. I haven't seen him post recently, so does anyone here on the forum have suggestions on what adhesives might do well for this task?

Thanks.
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  #28  
Old 06-20-2017, 11:32 PM
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Default This stuff is the BEST

But the applicator tool is not cheap
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