Battery quick disconnect...

saudivette

Clueless In Sandland
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
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Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Who's running a battery quick disonnect or isolation switch?

A while ago, I bought one of those twist types from Ecklers (or somewhere) to suit a side terminal battery and it's going to be awkward to just fit it - gonna be a PITA to actually operate it once installed. Anyone have a better suggestion?

Also, I was going to run it on the negative side of the battery - any reasons not to?
 
Do you have a side terminal battery? I usually use those that go on the terminal and have a green knob that you unscrew to break the contact (on the - side)
 
The 65 had one of the green knob cut offs installed when I got it. I started having intermittent "no crank" problems and took it off. No more problems. I guess it could have been worn out but I never replaced it.
 
Thanks Kev! That looks pretty damn flash. Where'd you put the black (relay?) box?

I mounted it right to the pos terminal of the bat,but you can put it anywhere you want on the pos cable,mine is a side post and there was enough room for it in the bat box.
 
Just buy an extension for the 12V+ cable and mount the disconnect switch on top the battery. I too have a side terminal battery and that's what I did and I can reach it relatively easy from the driver's seat.
 
Then again, you COULD just FIX the friggin' CAR, and forgetaboutit.....

I have not had any battery problems in some 45? years of driving daily ....or longer term storage, find the drain.....and eliminate it....

any car should be able to sit for some 6 months without problems....

:1st:
 
Then again, you COULD just FIX the friggin' CAR, and forgetaboutit.....

I have not had any battery problems in some 45? years of driving daily ....or longer term storage, find the drain.....and eliminate it....

any car should be able to sit for some 6 months without problems....

:1st:

Battery drain is not the only reason to add a disconnect Gene,these cars have old wiring that could start a fire it would be nice to be able to cut the power and stop a short,come in handy for theft deterrent,if they cant start the car its hard to drive off with it,and then there are those times when you need the power disconnected to work on it,flip a switch and you are ready to go. And i did not see in Wayne s post where he said he had a drain.
 
Then again, you COULD just FIX the friggin' CAR, and forgetaboutit.....

I have not had any battery problems in some 45? years of driving daily ....or longer term storage, find the drain.....and eliminate it....

any car should be able to sit for some 6 months without problems....

:1st:

I'd have to agree with you on that one.:amused:
Hell, that didn't even hurt.:shocking:
 
Just buy an extension for the 12V+ cable and mount the disconnect switch on top the battery. I too have a side terminal battery and that's what I did and I can reach it relatively easy from the driver's seat.
I went and bought a piece of bus (buzz, buss??) bar today so that I could bend up a right angled piece, screw that into the side terminal of the battery then attach the quick disonnect to that so it would be on top of the battery and quite rigid. Will post pics when it's done...

Then again, you COULD just FIX the friggin' CAR, and forgetaboutit.....

I have not had any battery problems in some 45? years of driving daily ....or longer term storage, find the drain.....and eliminate it....

any car should be able to sit for some 6 months without problems....

:1st:
Crikey Gene, that's a bit harsh :gurney:
I'm so electrically challenged that fitting a quick disconnect is tough for me, never mind finding damn electron leaks...

Battery drain is not the only reason to add a disconnect Gene,these cars have old wiring that could start a fire it would be nice to be able to cut the power and stop a short,come in handy for theft deterrent,if they cant start the car its hard to drive off with it,and then there are those times when you need the power disconnected to work on it,flip a switch and you are ready to go. And i did not see in Wayne s post where he said he had a drain.
Well spotted Kev. I don't have a drain, I wanted a quick disconnect for the fire/short angle - you guys have posted too many pics of burning C3's for my piece of mind. The theft deterrent was a secondary reason to add a quick disconnect. Car theft isn't real high out here but it'll still be nice to know that no one can jump in and hotwire it...
 
Crikey Gene, that's a bit harsh
I'm so electrically challenged that fitting a quick disconnect is tough for me, never mind finding damn electron leaks...

just like fixing a plumbing leak, but you have to stick a meter in the line to measure the flow, as you can't SEE electrons leaking....

:crap: even with special glasses.....

I say it with good humor, not to be a over bearing asshole....

:gurney:
 
Then again, you COULD just FIX the friggin' CAR, and forgetaboutit.....

I have not had any battery problems in some 45? years of driving daily ....or longer term storage, find the drain.....and eliminate it....

any car should be able to sit for some 6 months without problems....

:1st:

Battery drain is not the only reason to add a disconnect Gene,these cars have old wiring that could start a fire it would be nice to be able to cut the power and stop a short,come in handy for theft deterrent,if they cant start the car its hard to drive off with it,and then there are those times when you need the power disconnected to work on it,flip a switch and you are ready to go. And i did not see in Wayne s post where he said he had a drain.

Right on! The main reason I got a disconnect was for wire/fire safety. Secondly it makes it easy to disconnect when your working on elec systems. Third, it is my second antitheft. They'll have to get through it and the cut-off switch.
 
Then again, you COULD just FIX the friggin' CAR, and forgetaboutit.....

I have not had any battery problems in some 45? years of driving daily ....or longer term storage, find the drain.....and eliminate it....

any car should be able to sit for some 6 months without problems....

:1st:


I tried to find the drain, I gave up. I have a few other electrical gremlins that are annoying.... and I don't like messing with wires.....
 
just like fixing a plumbing leak, but you have to stick a meter in the line to measure the flow, as you can't SEE electrons leaking....

:crap: even with special glasses.....

I say it with good humor, not to be a over bearing asshole....

:gurney:
I know mate and I take it with good humour. However, I normally don't need a meter to find an electrickery leak as that sneaky shit will bypass a 1/32" gap with platinum contacts so that it can jump 8' through glass or rubber to earth through me - I attract that voodoo like flies to shit :shocking:
 
Then again, you COULD just FIX the friggin' CAR, and forgetaboutit.....

I have not had any battery problems in some 45? years of driving daily ....or longer term storage, find the drain.....and eliminate it....

any car should be able to sit for some 6 months without problems....

:1st:


I tried to find the drain, I gave up. I have a few other electrical gremlins that are annoying.... and I don't like messing with wires.....

OH....stop on up someday, it's easy.....I find it, just about guaranteed within a hour.....

been working and :shocking::shocking: by 'lectric for too many decades to let another minor electron scare me.....

:crap::suicide:
 
just like fixing a plumbing leak, but you have to stick a meter in the line to measure the flow, as you can't SEE electrons leaking....

:crap: even with special glasses.....

I say it with good humor, not to be a over bearing asshole....

:gurney:
I know mate and I take it with good humour. However, I normally don't need a meter to find an electrickery leak as that sneaky shit will bypass a 1/32" gap with platinum contacts so that it can jump 8' through glass or rubber to earth through me - I attract that voodoo like flies to shit :shocking:

DAMN dude, and here we all thought it was your wife who was electrifying....

:ghost:
 
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