carbs

I bead blast mine,then soak the parts in lacquer thinner for an hour or so and then blow them out with compressed air. Then you can either polish,paint,or powder coat the parts.
 
What is the best way to clean an old card. New cleaners don't work very well.

The best carb dip they ever made was Thyme. It was the shizzle. EPA killed it. I believe Chemtool has a dip now. Overnight is best. Rinse with water, and blow dry with air.
 
I bead blast mine,then soak the parts in lacquer thinner for an hour or so and then blow them out with compressed air. Then you can either polish,paint,or powder coat the parts.

This is the way I do Winfields, and other antique carbs. It's about the only way with the really old grungy ones.
 
I bead blast mine,then soak the parts in lacquer thinner for an hour or so and then blow them out with compressed air. Then you can either polish,paint,or powder coat the parts.

This is the way I do Winfields, and other antique carbs. It's about the only way with the really old grungy ones.

Yes it is. And just to let everybody know, Bird gave me the tip on the thinner :1st: and it works very well at getting the glass beads out of all the openings and ports.
 
You're correct - the new EPA-approved cleaners work poorly at best. The cleaners work better when they're above 70 degrees, so don't try cleaning the carb if your garage temp is below 60 (put the can of carb cleaner in your laundry room overnight to warm it up if you need to). Don't let the parts sit in the new carb cleaners overnight - the new cleaners erode cad and zinc plating, and they will make your plated surfaces look terrible. Soak for about an hour with agitation, and then use a toothbrush (I use my wife's, since I wouldn't want to use my own) to get the carbon sooting off the surfaces. Rinse with warm water and blow dry.

You wouldn't want to bead blast the carb. This will not only destroy the dichromate finish, but it is not possible to get the glass beads out of the bottom of the idle fuel transfer passages on a Q-Jet - the carb will never work right again unless you drill out the idle transfer tubes, dump the beads out, and replace the tubes. You cannot blow the beads/dust out of the bottom of the vertical transfer passage and lower plenum with the tubes in the carb.

Lars
 
Thanks guys I think I will try to heat the chem up to about 80 degrees or so and test parts for an hour or so I do have some wasted parts that I can use to test ( there are from leaning not to force the pin into the accelerator pump arm. Opps. well another one is on its way. Also some of the new chem like super clean and that purple seem to work if you use a brush.
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