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  #11  
Old 01-18-2011, 10:15 PM
Red Red is offline
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I agree Gene! The grease method might have worked well on bronze bushings, but I never had any trouble removing them with a puller. A tight pilot bearing can be a challenge though, and much better options than grease. The Matco tool impressed me, but next time I will definitely try the wet paper.
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2011, 11:00 PM
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J. Abbott J. Abbott is offline
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I have never heard of wet paper. The vid did not work for me. I have used grease and then steel clutch alignment tool and it has always worked. Word of warning for anyone with an LS series engine. Don't try any of these methods, the crank on a LS is drilled all the way through and then they put a freeze plug in it. If you try that method the freeze plug with pop out inside the engine. The LS cars actually use a real bearing though and SnapOn makes a nice puller to will take it right out.
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  #13  
Old 01-22-2011, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big2bird View Post
They do make a slide hammer pilot bushing removal tool also ya know. I suppose any port in a storm is good.
Before I had a puller I found that a large tap worked great for removing the old bronze pilot bushing. Just start threading it in and it bottoms out and pushes out the bushing.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by big2bird View Post
They do make a slide hammer pilot bushing removal tool also ya know. I suppose any port in a storm is good.
Before I had a puller I found that a large tap worked great for removing the old bronze pilot bushing. Just start threading it in and it bottoms out and pushes out the bushing.
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:30 PM
68/70Vette 68/70Vette is offline
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If the socket had a groove machined into it so an o-ring could be used to make a better seal.

I installed a pilot bearing in my ZZ4. I had to really wack it in. I don't think it's going to be easy to get out if it ever has to be removed.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68/70Vette View Post
If the socket had a groove machined into it so an o-ring could be used to make a better seal.

I installed a pilot bearing in my ZZ4. I had to really wack it in. I don't think it's going to be easy to get out if it ever has to be removed.
My tight pilot bearing came with my Tremec TKO 600. After installing it with a hammer, I became concerned and tried to get the bearing needles to move in the race, but they seemed frozen. This had me concerned the tight bearing might ruin the input shaft on the trans. I got a smaller OD pilot bearing from Tremec and it went into the crank with a little light tapping and the needles moved freely after installation. An ounce of prevention is cheaper than a few pounds of input shaft, or something like that. Just thought I'd mention it, as all bearings are not created equally.
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