New roller cam recomendations?

vette427sbc

vette427sbc

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2008
Messages
1,034
Location
Jersey Shore
I think I might be replacing my roller cam (and maybe upgrading it) since I wiped out the fuel pump lobe. Im looking to keep this as low-buck as possible, but Im not opposed to buying quality parts. Unfortunately that means no solid roller upgrades.

Heres my setup-
AFR 180 heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold (side note: what can I use to fill the heat riser in the manifold? all of the gaskets I get still have a little hole that allows exhaust into the riser. Are the block off plates just as effective as filling it?)
Holley 650 DP
Comp Magnum hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers
Bottom-end is a 350 with forged crank/rods/pistons. Compression comes in at about 10.9 Block is decked, although I have to find out how deep the pistons are in the hole. I would like to get the compression and quench up with a thinner gasket if you think I can work it on 93 octane.

I have 3.55 gears, and a M20 trans. Car weighs 3075lbs with driver and full wet.

Im not opposed to a rough idle (would actually prefer one). I do drive the car pretty much every day, and sit in traffic during the summer, so I do need some power down low, but the car is fairly light, and I still have the stock (heavy!) flywheel

Heres the cam that I ran before I pulled the motor out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-423-8/
It ran really well and had some great driveability, while still pulling hard up top. Im just wondering if there is room for improvement while not straying too far away from this power range. It has to be a hydraulic roller too.
Maybe recommend me a fuel pump pushrod too so I dont wipe this cam out

Thanks
 
vette427sbc said:
I think I might be replacing my roller cam (and maybe upgrading it) since I wiped out the fuel pump lobe. Im looking to keep this as low-buck as possible, but Im not opposed to buying quality parts. Unfortunately that means no solid roller upgrades.

Heres my setup-
AFR 180 heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold (side note: what can I use to fill the heat riser in the manifold? all of the gaskets I get still have a little hole that allows exhaust into the riser. Are the block off plates just as effective as filling it?)
Holley 650 DP
Comp Magnum hyd. roller lifters, roller rockers
Bottom-end is a 350 with forged crank/rods/pistons. Compression comes in at about 10.9 Block is decked, although I have to find out how deep the pistons are in the hole. I would like to get the compression and quench up with a thinner gasket if you think I can work it on 93 octane.

I have 3.55 gears, and a M20 trans. Car weighs 3075lbs with driver and full wet.

Im not opposed to a rough idle (would actually prefer one). I do drive the car pretty much every day, and sit in traffic during the summer, so I do need some power down low, but the car is fairly light, and I still have the stock (heavy!) flywheel

Heres the cam that I ran before I pulled the motor out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-423-8/
It ran really well and had some great driveability, while still pulling hard up top. Im just wondering if there is room for improvement while not straying too far away from this power range. It has to be a hydraulic roller too.
Maybe recommend me a fuel pump pushrod too so I dont wipe this cam out

Thanks
Click to expand...

We had an engine a while back where the customer used the GM hot cam as that really seem to work pretty good and it wasn't much money.

You need a fuel pump push rod with bronze tip and Comp Cams has them!!
 
If I well remember the hot-cam should be 218° - 228° @ 0.050" with 112° LSA

With the AFR heads you dont need that much duration at the exhaust.... in the past this was due to the poor design of the ex. port.
Today the performance heads flows very well even w/o exhaust rised port.... and for my opinion you dont need more than 4° of difference from intake and exhaust.

The cam you posted have 224° -230° @ 0.050" with LSA of 110°

If you intend to daily drive your car even in trafic, you should stay with a little more LSA which will give you more low end (due to the less overlap).
Even the timing is in the endge for daily driving..... I would not go further.

....my opinion, of course!:quote:
 
Another option that you have is to call Comp Cams and have them do a custom grind. As I recall, I didn't pay all that much more than the one that you're looking at from Summit. I also needed a small base circle and wanted a little more LSA. I probably gave away some top end but had outstanding torque and great throttle response. Vacuum was just ok (~ 12 inches at idle).
 
Same cam I'm running! I've been pretty happy with mine. I vote that you need to talk to Comp, or whoever else you might consider. I say that because some people will probably tell you to go down a size or two on cam, I would say stick with what you have, and others will probably say go up a size.
I called Comp about what I ultimately wanted to do with my engine once I get my AFR heads on and the cam they recommended was so close to mine already that I'm going to stick with the one I have and just run 1.6 rockers.
 
Comp or ARP offer a lightweight pump pushrod with bronze tip, I bought it back in 2006 but forgot if it was Comp or ARP...

I have the 230-236 cam in my 383, ground on 112 degrees not 110. Runs great but a stroker can handle a lot more than a 350.

I thought you have a 427SB ??

For a 350 I'd stick with the cam you got, maybe even a size smaller. If you want a rough idle look into the Thumper cams.
 
Thanks for the info guys :thumbs:
I think Im just going to run an electric fuel pump. Its over $100 cheaper than getting a new cam, and Im already way over budget with my motor rebuild.


MYBAD79 said:
I thought you have a 427SB ??
Click to expand...

A guy can dream, right? :)
 
I looked at the specs for your current cam - it's just right for your engine, but, when re-installing, I'd set the cam advance it to about 6 deg for improved bottom end and mid-range.
 
Maybe give Delta cams a try:
http://deltacam.com/camshaftgrinding.php?p=3

These guys will supposedly grind you any cam for half the price of the big brands.
Haven' called myself yet but these are the guys I'm thinking about using.
You Know call Comps, Lunati, Schneider and maybe some others"..hey what cam do you recommend blah blah blah...." call Delta and have 'm grind me one for half the money.
Does that make me a bad person?

:clobbered:
 
Imo Apita said:
Maybe give Delta cams a try:
http://deltacam.com/camshaftgrinding.php?p=3

These guys will supposedly grind you any cam for half the price of the big brands.
Haven' called myself yet but these are the guys I'm thinking about using.
You Know call Comps, Lunati, Schneider and maybe some others"..hey what cam do you recommend blah blah blah...." call Delta and have 'm grind me one for half the money.
Does that make me a bad person?

:clobbered:
Click to expand...

I can see why there cams are half the money as they are using half the equipment.

I think I will stay with Bullet/Ultradyne cams as they are using state of the art equipment to their work!!!!
 
I haven't called them yet, as far as I understand they can regrind pretty much any profile on either a blank or a core.
I don't see a problem with that but I'm standing by to be edumecated..
 
CNC BLOCKS said:
Imo Apita said:
Maybe give Delta cams a try:
http://deltacam.com/camshaftgrinding.php?p=3

These guys will supposedly grind you any cam for half the price of the big brands.
Haven' called myself yet but these are the guys I'm thinking about using.
You Know call Comps, Lunati, Schneider and maybe some others"..hey what cam do you recommend blah blah blah...." call Delta and have 'm grind me one for half the money.
Does that make me a bad person?

:clobbered:
Click to expand...

I can see why there cams are half the money as they are using half the equipment.

I think I will stay with Bullet/Ultradyne cams as they are using state of the art equipment to their work!!!!
Click to expand...

A buddy of mine swears by Ultradyne. I used Jones for my BB build.

http://www.jonescams.com/2006catalog_001.htm
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top