Por-15 Chassis

I have recently completed a POR-15 treatment of my chassis (a couple of months ago).

There are some very specific directions - you really outta follow -- inspite of extra cost, time, and efffort. I'll summarize -- This will be a long post - you can go to their web site and get more details.

1. I sanded/ground off the crud from 30 years of use and road junk. I was happy to get that off.




2. Then, I cleaned it with a bunch of cleaners to get the grease and undercoating off that was fouling up my sanding pads. Maybe shoulda done that first (DOOH!)

3. Then I used the POR-15 "Marine Clean." I was surpised how well this cleaned -- even after I had cleand in Step 2 above. Timing and Rinse per direstions.



4. The next step is to use the POR-15 "Metal Prep." There are specific directions here too, keeping it wet with the solution, don't let it dry, etc.

5. Then the first coat of POR-15 is ready to be applied. Read the directions -- stir, brush, and ... just follow the directions. I was very suprised and pleased with the results. It went on well, and leveled between coats. Looked as good as sprayed. Yes, a second coat, was applied -- as per directions, when the first was past "tack" state, no fingerprint -- about 3 hours in my case.



6. Then, I put on a top coat -- used the Blackcoat - a high gloss. This followed coat #2 of POR-15 in about 3 hours too. I was impressed with the gloss - and looking for the UV properties it has and the base POR-15 doesn't. It used significantly less than the second coat of the base and even less still, from the first base coat. BUT - it had a tendancy to run, sag, and take some extra care in getting a good finish.



SO, If you haven't followed their directions -- I'd say all bets are off. NOW, I have -drop tested the finish from 3 feet to the garage floor. -- Not intended -- but --SHIT happens.

NO damage, no chips, scratches etc. Mind you it had cured only a week at the time.

Its not powder - Its maybe 1/3 or more less the cost of powder -- so money left over and a durable finish -- where you paint it.



This was not intended to be an advert for the product -- just a reminder of the prep work required for the product -- and a satisified customer -- so far. I normally am not this anal in following directions -- but its a big project -- and don't want to GIVL it up!

Surprisingly, the POR-15 site shows the same types of demos a powdercoat operatior will often show you. Take a finished product - bang it until it dents - and show it doesn't peal, chip, or scratch.

BTW -- just did the Calipers, Bright Red -- NICE.

And, I did the fuel tank a month ago. I was a bit unsatisified with the results (the looks) of the POR-15 Sterling Silver -- It has a high metal content -- and a brush application leaves a lot to be desired. I'd save the silver for smaller piece I think -- or as accent (like fuel tank) that is sorta hidden, in final reassembly. To do a spray app requires a lot of gear - I'd go with a hooded vented, yada, yada set up -- so -- on the cheap -- I went with the brush. Don't get it on you -- if you do and let it dry - get out the sand paper - that'll get it off yer skin!


Cheers - Jim

I did mine the same way but I did spray the frame and I made sure to clean the gun really good when I was done.

Dude - you'll NEVER get that shit off the wall! Maybe do the rest of the garage???
Doubles as Waterproofing too!

Wish I had a compressor and gun both. Maybe have to toss the gun when done if not cleaned real good.

Cheers - Jim

I'm going to paint the whole garage when the car is done and like I said the gun was cleaned REALLY well. Now for the paint I got on my hands it took a week to get it all off.

elevatordude said:

I'm going to paint the whole garage when the car is done and like I said the gun was cleaned REALLY well. Now for the paint I got on my hands it took a week to get it all off.

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Yep. That stuff sticks to skin like no tomarrow. Maybe we should coat the frames with skin as primer.

big2bird said:

elevatordude said:

I'm going to paint the whole garage when the car is done and like I said the gun was cleaned REALLY well. Now for the paint I got on my hands it took a week to get it all off.

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Yep. That stuff sticks to skin like no tomarrow. Maybe we should coat the frames with skin as primer.

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Seems that EVERY car exacts it's pound of flesh.....:sweat::crutches:

Nice Job! I painted my 79 frame with POR-15 in gloss black about three years ago. I followed your basic process, but only used one coat of POR gloss black. It has since cleaned well, has not peeled and still looks as good as new. I am anal about cleaning the underside and suspension. I also did my fuel tank with the silver and was very pleased with the result. It all looks as good as powder IMO. The silver does have some darker metallic streaking, but with the gloss finish looks great IMO. I even painted my rusty fuel lines silver to look great and arrest the rust. Generally, I was very pleased with the POR product.

The drying time depends on the temp and moisture content in the air. I learned the hard way about getting it on skin :lol: I put it on my C4 and just recently on my C3 chassis. My one tip if you are going to take your time and do bits and pieces then buy it in the six pack. The cans are smaller but you don't have to worry about wasting what is left in the can. Seems once open there is the really is no real effective reseal. :stirpot:

keywestjack said:

The drying time depends on the temp and moisture content in the air. I learned the hard way about getting it on skin :lol: I put it on my C4 and just recently on my C3 chassis. My one tip if you are going to take your time and do bits and pieces then buy it in the six pack. The cans are smaller but you don't have to worry about wasting what is left in the can. Seems once open there is the really is no real effective reseal. :stirpot:

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I have used POR 15 for many projects and found the shelf life after opening can be extended if you close the lid on top of a sheet of plastic wrap. This is true of any paint, it helps improve the seal and prevents rusting of the lid and makes re-opening easier. After sealing the lid on the can, it goes into the refrigerator. I have three cans of paint in my refrigerator right now, but I'm also not married any longer. Doing this has kept an open can of POR last several months, but that depends on how much has been used from the can. I hope this observation helps!

BTW...if the can content skins over, don't toss the remaining paint. I have peeled the POR skin back and used the remaining paint with good results. I don't have deep pockets and need to make every drop count. Everyone won't agree with that, so I say do what you gotta do!

Red said:

After sealing the lid on the can, it goes into the refrigerator. I have three cans of paint in my refrigerator right now, but I'm also not married any longer. Doing this has kept an open can of POR last several months, but that depends on how much has been used from the can.

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Where do you keep your beer... :beer::rofl: I will try your suggestion, any savings can help. Thanks Jack

keywestjack said:

Red said:

After sealing the lid on the can, it goes into the refrigerator. I have three cans of paint in my refrigerator right now, but I'm also not married any longer. Doing this has kept an open can of POR last several months, but that depends on how much has been used from the can.

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Where do you keep your beer... :beer::rofl: I will try your suggestion, any savings can help. Thanks Jack

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YES, Dear, those ARE car parts in the dishwasher....oven.....

:shocking::club::gurney::rofl:

mrvette said:

keywestjack said:

Red said:

After sealing the lid on the can, it goes into the refrigerator. I have three cans of paint in my refrigerator right now, but I'm also not married any longer. Doing this has kept an open can of POR last several months, but that depends on how much has been used from the can.

Click to expand...

Where do you keep your beer... :beer::rofl: I will try your suggestion, any savings can help. Thanks Jack

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YES, Dear, those ARE car parts in the dishwasher....oven.....

:shocking::club::gurney::rofl:

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You guys got the idea, it is slim pickins at my place. Even the roaches have it tough! LOL Good thing there are about six fast food places about a mile from my door. :thumbs:

If Your Car is gonna be a Garage Queen POR15 will hold up just fine , and so will the stuff in a rattle can. But if You are going to drive it expecially in the rain or Snow it will NOT hold up.
I spent a considerable amount of Money along with a lot of My time coating the Frame of My then new 2002 Silverado , I followed the directions to the T , used the Marine clean , and Metalready . I even cleaned with Metalready and wire brushed everything again 2 years later and recoated with POR15.
I live in the Rustbelt and this Truck is My dayly driver .It held up fine for about 5 Years then it just started to peal ,now Rust is everywhere POR does not stick to anything but Hands and Cement. The coating is very tough , but once it gets a chip Water and Salt get under it and the Rust will undermine it like Powder coat on cheap lawn furniture. You can grab a loose end and literally pull the stuff off in sheets. The only thing that I would ever use this product on is to waterproof a concrete block wall .
The one product that I have had good luck with is Rust Bullet and I topcoat it with Eastwood Chassis Black as it only comes in silver. Do a google search for Rust Bullet it's amazing stuff , adheres to almost anything and can be topcoated with other paints without having to buy expensive "tie coat" like POR15. I wish that I knew about it when My Truck was new.

Oh and by the way I also topcoated it with POR's topcoat semigloss black. And it still failed.

resurrecting a four year old post..........you must have been really bored one night

Always good to see old threads still getting some attention..... Now about POR15..... I've used it on my windshield frame and so far so good..... However, since then I've used a few epoxy primers and PPG DP epoxy is by far the best (my opinion)....... Even though that DP stuff is expensive, it's much more manageable than the POR15 stuff... It can also be topcoated with no issues.....

Another member (Mike,"red") told me this back in 2006 or so.....guess he was right about that DP epoxy......

Over the past years I've also used other brand epoxy:TCP global, Shopline, Eastwood .... Never had a problem......

Not saying POR15 is bad, just saying a Gallon of decent quality epoxy is only $100-$250 depending on what and where you buy...... When I bought that POR15 I think it was like $40 for the little starter kit that was like 8oz......

bobs77vet said:

resurrecting a four year old post..........you must have been really bored one night

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Not so much being bored, just didn't look for the dates. It was only the 4th or 5th one down on the first page . Lots of traffic here.

sssuch said:

bobs77vet said:

resurrecting a four year old post..........you must have been really bored one night

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Not so much being bored, just didn't look for the dates. It was only the 4th or 5th one down on the first page . Lots of traffic here.

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Very true, but the truth/knowledge base is much deeper.....

:smash:

Well I take back what I said about it holding up on a Garage Queen , I sprayed it on the radiator support of My Corvette and I removed it a few weeks ago with the air gun. Oh well it still sticks to Cement.

I painted the chassis (back in 09). It has been, and still continues to be, in and out of the garage - but not on the Road & Track. The areas I did not coat with the UV resistant coat are a flat-ish chalky black. The other areas are fine. The chassis has spent the better part of the summer in the driveway while other projects took over the garage.

Cheers - Jim